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Messages - Meno

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46
Don't assume Romex is code. With that being said there is no issue with Romex.

So hypothetically if I go ahead and do it with Romex, what's the worst case scenario? (assuming I do everything correctly)

47
The pic looks like it has holes for NM cable and the product description does not clarify what other holes are available on the junction box. If it does not have holes for metal cable, it may not be suitable for locations that require metal cable. So if your locale does not allow NM, you should pose this question on Amazon.

Thanks. How do I find out if Romex is allowed? I have a whole bunch of old Romex running through my basement. Can I assume it's fine?

Separate question: Should I replace all the old Romex in the basement?

48
I have a room with no lights, only an outlet connected to a light switch.

I want to put in recessed lighting. Thinking of using these:

Designers Fountain EV407941WH27 Modern Easy Up 4 inch 2700K Warm White 91 CRI Integrated Led Recessed Light with J-Box (No Can Needed) - - Amazon.com ($21.17)



Never done this before. Anyone have any tips for me before I start cutting holes and fishing wires?

49
I have the Ecobee only for the sensor option, the smart home stuff is too complicated without a Shabbos mode.
Thus my configuration until now on my Ecobee 3 has been:
-Disable smart/home away
-Disable follow me
-Set brightness for active and standby to 10
-Disable standby screen
-Hold action until changed

Someone told me that on the Ecobee3 lite you can enable the standby screen and put a black piece of tape over the proximity sensor on the top left. That will allow it to switch into the standby screen and you can just touch it to go into the active screen.

On my regular Ecobee 3 there are 2 proximity sensors on the top left. If I cover either one alone with tape it will turn on the active screen when I walk by it, so that's a no-go. If I cover both sensors with tape then it won't turn on the standby screen at all.

Can anyone here confirm that the tape trick works on the ecobee 3 lite?

It looks so sleek. Why would I want to ruin it with a piece of tape?

50
Do all these require a C wire? Because the Nest doesn't

I received my ecobee3 lite yesterday. It comes with an adapter thing to use if you don't have a C wire.

51
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 10, 2018, 08:03:54 AM »
When you get home and are not sure how to remove the cleats just ask.  ;)
Always love when new homeowners are not afraid to get their hands dirty. You will save tons of money!!!

Thanks to your reminders, I remembered to check when I got home. There are cleats on the bottom and top so I should be able to just remove the whole duct. It's painted over, so that might present some trouble, but I could probably do it.

I also checked the basement and it looks like there are some dampers already in there, but I haven't had time to figure out what leads where.

Thanks

52
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 03:04:20 PM »
You want to try for a neutral balance with the proper amount of returns.

What if I turn the return ducts into laundry chutes? Is that a good compromise?

53
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 02:19:06 PM »
Just did a little bit of research. It seems that my understanding of returns may have been wrong.

I had assumed that the system creates vacuum pressure in order to actively pull air into the returns. However, based on what I've read in a few places, it seems that it's the positive pressure from the supply ducts that forces the air into the return. If I close the supply ducts, there's nothing creating that positive pressure so I shouldn't have to close the return ducts.

54
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 01:02:42 PM »
Each of the two bedrooms has one supply vent and one return vent (roughly the same size). Safe to assume that if I close both it will remain balanced?

55
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 12:47:44 PM »
is there another return? Is it providing enough air for the smaller section?

There is another return, but how would I know if it's providing enough air?

56
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 12:33:28 PM »
If I close off the supply duct leading upstairs, I should probably close off the return duct as well, just to keep it balanced, right?

57
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 10:32:58 AM »
If it was round I would say just cut it as it is easy to splice it later. You sure you can't separate it at the top or bottom? Usually held together with cleats. Two cleats slide off and it splits. The other two cleats stay on.
https://www.lowes.com/pl/Duct-connector-cleats-Duct-transitions-connectors-HVAC-duct-fittings-Heating-cooling/4294512225

Interesting. Thanks

Remind me to check when I get home 😁

58
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 10:23:58 AM »
Round or square duct work?

Square. Most of the dampers I've seen online are round. That would've been easier.

59
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 10:22:16 AM »
It's worth preserving the abiity to turn it back on up there.  You'll iy"H need those rooms as bedrooms.
Being able to switch back and forth would be even better. Think guest rooms.

We're using them as bedrooms now. We've just accepted the fact that the central ac will never be good enough up there (unless we do major work) so we'll settle for window units.

60
General Discussion / Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« on: August 09, 2018, 10:20:15 AM »
Maybe you will get lucky and have a spot were two sections meet in the closet. Easy to separate there.

Nah I checked. Only close to the ceiling and close to the floor

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