I'm looking to hardwire my dashcam in my vehicle, now I have in the past ran the wiring through the panels and all with basic wiring without a hardwire kit, meaning it was connected directly to the cigarette lighter.
Now for my last car that I wired I used this kit(
linked here)not knowing that it doesn't have the safety cut off mechanism which cuts off the power supply at about 11.6/11.7V so I had wired it to an ACC fuse.
Interestingly it had a box which I thought served as the cut off mechanism for 24hrs, but the company claimed it did not! Was just for added protection.
So in english all the hardwire kit did for me, was remove all the wires that were hanging in front of my face and allowed to be neatly tucked away.
For reference when you see..
Ground- Bare metal part on a car.
ACC- Fuse that's powered off when the car is turned off.
BAT/live- Live fuse that's powered all the time even when the car is off.
Now they recommended another kit with a 3rd yellow Wire.
So the GRD/ACC/BAT.
Here's a link for that one. Now my question is what's the reason to have three wires when connecting it to be on 24/7, as long as your voltage of your battery doesn't fall below 11.6/11.7V, shouldn't the red or in this case the Yellow which is connected to the constant power be enough? why the need for a red wire here?
For example in this kit they don't require a 3rd wire going to the ACC for when the car is off.
Here's the kit that has two wires, and shuts off if it goes below 11.6-11.7V.
And works with only 2 wires.
I have used Vantop branded products in the past so would buy from them vs another brand, don't care to buy the 3 wired one but any reason for the 3rd wire?
2 Wired one's...
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07FXJD8W1/
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Topic: Help Hardwiring a Dash Cam/RadarGun/GPS? (Read 646 times)