Greetings. WARNING: Very long report but I'm including lots of details anticipating that people will use the exact details to make their own trip simple. No fireworks here but hopefully good info. Ignore typos for time being. Wrote it quickly. We've been wanting to travel to Northwest Europe for a while and Dan's Pre-Covid 2019 definitely convinced me that Amsterdam was a worthy destination. We also wanted to go back to Paris which we hadn't been to in 10 years and with our 15th anniversary approaching we figured we'd be able to do hit both places assuming Covid restrictions allowed. When, in Oct 2020, travel to Europe seemed like something that would never be possible I saw a deal from PHL (where I live) to Amsterdam on AA for $124 RT (plus $499 in taxes
). I had used my newly acquired AA Executive Platinum status on a few occasions since being "gifted it" as a result of being a Hyatt Globalist and I figured if this trip actually proved to be doable that I'd have a good chance of getting upgraded. As May rolled along the information was very unclear on who- if anyone- would be allowed into the Netherlands and the official rule was that no Americans would be allowed in unless they had an actual reason (family, medical personnel etc...). We were scheduled to depart 6/24 from PHL and lo and behold an announcement came out about a week before that the Netherlands was essentially going from open to NO Americans on June 23rd to open to ALL Americans starting June 24th. Typical Covid weirdness/lack of logic/reason. I'll speed things up:
Since we weren't sure whether an upgrade to business on the 787 was a sure thing I used my Systemwide Upgrades to guarantee that I'd have the lie flat seat both there and back. Considering there were 24 people (and 10 staff) on the flight back from AMS yesterday and roughly the same number on the way there we would have been all but guaranteed an upgrade both ways but I don't regret having used the upgrades. We had seats 2D and 2H on the way there and what SeatGuru doesn't tell you is that there's a HUGE downside to any of these seats which are connected to other seats. In my case I should have opted for row 1 (facing backwards) because the person connected to my seat moved around a lot and at best we got a few hours of "sleep." Didn't eat the meals wherever they were from.
The Thalys between Paris and Amsterdam is AMAZING. Not particularly fancy or even clean but its a typical European model of efficiency. Because we didn't know how long customs and luggage would take I had booked at 11:30 train from AMS to Paris that was scheduled to get into Paris at 2:30 when little kosher food would still be available). I knew there was a 9:30 am Thalys with seats available that if we rushed we'd be able to get to. Probably because the plane and airport were so empty we were able to go from our seats, got our luggage and to the train station in Schipol in a matter of probably 30-35 minutes. After paying a 144 Euro change fee for 2 people we were scheduled to arrive in Paris at 12:30. Ubered from Paris Nord to the Park Hyatt (booked at 30k points per night for 4 nights). The Park Hyatt - as most people here have already reported is absolutely incredible. Most of the interior is pretty dated by now but the staff is exceptionally nice and accomodating for all things kosher, shabbos, etc. They were sold out of suites but we got one of the Deluxe rooms which was more than enough for 2 people. Because the room wouldn't be ready they told us to go have coffee in the main bar/restaurant area off the lobby and within 20 minutes the room was ready. Fridge in room was great for storing the kosher food we eventually got and the hotel gave us a free bottle of kosher Bordeaux for our anniversary. Be aware that the lights in the fridge have the whole magnet/light/shabbos issue. Also be aware that the Toto washlet will be on all shabbos unless you find the buttons hidden on the side to run it off (no way to unplug it).
As you can read in any previous Paris Trip Report Paris has a mind-blowingly overwhelming food situation. Knowing it was closing around 2:30 on Friday we ran from the PHP to l'int'ee caffe which is dairy Italian. We got there as they were winding down but the host was very accommodating telling us we could pick any pasta and the owner/manager came back in order to pour non-mevushal wine for us. I'll ad a disclaimer at this point that there is non-mevushal wine and non-glatt meat all over Paris (see previous trip reports and not to infer from anything here that the places we dined at are acceptable to all). The place was pretty much an authentic Parisian indoors/outdoors restaurant and we regretted not having a chance to go back. Plus the Pasta was great. Because we didn't ahve a chance to have a full meal we went straight on foot to the XXV location on Avenue des Ternes. There we had some awesome Fench pastries and alos bought a brioche for shalushedes and some other baked goods to go. We still needed more shabbos food so we walked from XXV to the 17th arrondissement where we bought some more wine and some other food for shabbos. For most of the food, however, we ordered through Uber Eats from By Ella. Her food is great but A) she included 1 set of plastic cutlery and B) throughout Europe sandwiches are NOT overstuffed so the Sandwhich NYC Deli, Sandwhich boeuf, and Yom shishi sandwiches were all very flavorful and fresh but did not contain an abundance of meat. Her banana bread was great, babka mediocre and Formulae salade was very small but good. More like an appetizer.
For davening I kinda assumed that the Synagogue de la Victoire (
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grand_Synagogue_of_Paris) would have a mostly normal schedule. Long story short: I'd tell people to avoid this shul for all things frumkiet and ruchniyos but its a great museum for a tourist to see. I believe the rabbi means well and is dealing with a difficult situation and not-so-frum demographic but certain things are simply ridiculous and borderline intolerable: Things to not start when they are supposed to. Don't know what time mincha was Friday night but it probably started about 20 minutes after plag some time around 8:30. I actually didn't even stay for kabbolos shabbos and maariv (mainly because I was in weekday clothes). Shabbos morning there's a choir which is kinda cool but there's also a female conductor who's basically standing prominently in the middle of the "stage" and there were many women sitting in the men's section despite the fact that the women has there own mechtzah'd off section 5 feet away. There were no "mixed pews" with both men and women but between women all over the place and walking up and down aisles it definitely gave off a very non orthodox feel. There was a bar mitzvah (and maybe a sheva brachos) in shul so there were 3 speeches in French and the davening is LONG. When I returned for mincha the rabbi was giving a pre-mincha halacha shiur to about 7 people which I was impressed by (the shul not just being a museum to gawk at). Following mincha there was a shalushedes and no maariv. Luckily I found a solid shul a few blocks away
https://www.alloj.com/fr/synagogue/saint-lazare.html which had a 10:50 maariv and havdala. I returned to that shul for mincha maariv the next day of the 17th of tammuz and it was about an hour total. Just FYI. Since shabbos was over at 11 there wasn't really anything to do Saturday night and the next day was the fast day. The big Synagogue needed me as a 10th for shacharis and they had one in the annex (no selichos).
Sunday/ 17th tammuz- The PHP is right near the Louvre and we had booked tickets in advance. This is basically as empty as the museum will ever be. Just showed my tickets and walked right in with no wait. Spent entire day there basically till closing, mincha/maariv at the shul above and broke the fast at 10:45 at what seems to be the newest/hottest place, Le Bazaar. The restaurant is (not glatt and) right outside the city of Paris past the 17th arrondissement. Roughly a 20 euro Uber from the PHP. Amazing meal amazing foie gras and very accommodating. Seems somewhat hard to get a reservation day-of or a few days before but the maitre d I spoke to on the phone pretty much said that if we were to show up he would help us. When we arrived around 10:15 the place was packed. Pretty much every seat taken and most of the diners were yarmulka-less (and the fast was still going). Amazing energy very cool location and great food all around.
One thing I forgot to mention until now: The best mode of transportation in Paris (aside from the super-cheap Ubers and your feet) are the scooters. I've loved scooters in any city I've been to that has them and even though I think it creates major blight on the sidewalks its an incredible way to see the city at 18 mph and CHEAP. The only one that you'll probably use there is Lime because its owned by Uber so you can book them through your regular Uber app. VERY VERY enjoyable just to cruise around on them with no particular destination in mind.
Monday June 28th- after 7:45 shacharis (7:45 on mon and thu and 8 other mornings) on Rue Salnier ACROSS from Beth El we went to the
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Galeries_Lafayette for a few minutes seeing the impressive building, looking at a few items and going up to the roof which is worth a visit. Scootered from there to Montemarte (worth a visit but not much to dow other that walking around and seeing the view (although I think there may be a museum there)) and from there ubered to the Marais so that we could stop at the few places there. L'as du falaffel lives up to its reputation as world-class falaffel. That's not to say its the best I've ever had but its certainly in the same category. The fact that it does all the things right that other kosher restaurants do wrong is a great help. By that I mean: the place is as well oiled a machine as it gets. When you order the classic falaffel they're basically churning them out so fast that it comes to you almost seconds later. The big line outside was for takeout only which I think appeals to people on the go and because the falaffel is 2 euro cheaper per falaffel for takeout (i believe) but to get a table and sit down inside only took a few minutes of waiting. I'd call the place a must-visit because its delicious, its fast, its a scene and there a a bunch of things to visit in the Marais afterwards. We went right afterwards to Damyel (the old location on Rue Richer closed) and had some incredible (expensive) macarons (i'm not a macaron guy but these were particularly good).
From Damyel went to the Pompidou museum
https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Centre_Pompidou . HIGHLY suggest going. Worth it just for the building and layout alone. However, as is the case with any modern art museum be aware that not everything is rated G/PG and also know that the temporary exhibits they have in place right now are complete and utter garbage (specifically Women in Abstraction and the Hito Steyerl nonsense). The main floor which goes through the 19th and 20th centuries is awesome. NOTE: in addition to the building being worth the visit there is a cafe/restaurant on the top floor which has incredible views of Paris, is itself an architectural marvel, and good place to get coffee/beer whatever in a cool setting.
Dinner at Kavod. Still as great as the place was 10 years ago. When we showed up we were one of the only parties there and I felt bad that it was one of many businesses/restaurants which clearly was still suffering the effects of no tourism and Covid policies. By the time we were gone, though, every seat was taken and we actually saw our second group of Americans since Friday (chassidishe looking guy who it turns out was also staying at the Park Hyatt). Food was out of this world, the French wine that the host suggested was perfect, the staff couldn't have been nicer and its a very pleasant setting. At no point during our 10 days in Europe did I perceive danger in any way (and there were plenty of people in Paris moving about with yarmulka and tzizis visible so don't believe the stories that everyone is living in fear there) but if you are worried just know that since Kavod is next to the Israeli embassy there is a constant military/police presence outside essentially guarding the restaurant.
Walked from Kavod to check the box off of seeing the Eiffel Tower up close (its still closed till later this month) and scootered back from there to hotel.
Next morning had a 11 am Thalys train booked from Paris Nord to Brussels with a Hertz automatic car waiting for me at the Brussels Train station. Driving from Paris to Brussels is 3 hours + and the train is 1:20. Also the one one way fee from Paris to Amsterdam was significantly more than the one way from Brussels to Amsterdam so all in all it made sense to do. The process of leaving the train in Brussels and getting the car in the train station and retrieving the car was SO easy that I did not regret this decision.
My apologies if this is too long/detailed. As I wrote above I'm only including this level of detail to help with other people's planning NOT because I think this was a particularly riveting story.
next up: Belgium.
