Prepping a thorough laptop buying guide.
Here's what I've done so far - I would appreciate haaros.
Valid as of November 2023
1. Introduction
This guide does not intend to advise a buyer regarding pricing. I will leave that to DDF members. Instead, this guide is intended to help the buyer:
A. understand a product listing (to the extent necessary)
B. determine whether a particular product meets one’s needs
C. know what the potential unlisted pitfalls of a products are
D. know in a general sense what the options available for purchase are
The guide was written with a focus toward general users. For the purposes of this guide, this includes those who use the computer for word processing, basic web browsing, and basic office software. (Some office software is not basic; I will note where better components are recommended for these and what they are.)
One note regarding “gaming:” computer games run the gamut from taking less out of a computer than Zoom to requiring more than any currently marketed laptop to run (at least on higher settings). Moreover, many higher-quality or newer games can be run on decent hardware if the settings are lowered. Unless you must have the option of playing brand-new intense games the second they come on the market, you can buy whatever and simply limit yourself to those games the computer can run. (Obviously, the more powerful the components, the more leeway you will have. However, powerful laptops come with other caveats that I will specify when discussing the hardware.)
2. Screen (and laptop size)
Today, there are two sizes that are considered standard and come without any premium: 14” and 15.6”. In addition to those, you will find 16” (a slightly taller 15.6”), 14.5” (a much taller 14”), 17” or 17.3” monsters (we won’t talk about the 18”+ laptops here), 13.3” or 13.5” ultraportables, and the tiny 11.6” or 12” glorified typewriters.
Bear in mind that laptops are slowly transition from the 16:9 ratio (16 wide to 9 tall) which became common since Windows Vista for no reason other than watching movies. These days, many computers are being sold with the 3:2 ratio, giving more room for reading tall documents. You can tell which a computer is by dividing the resolution (1920 by 1080 = 16 by 9).
The first thing to keep in mind when it comes to screen size is that it also represents the overall size of the computer (as well as, for the most part, the weight range). Granted that 17” of screen is useful, but you may not have room for it in your bag, nor the inclination of carrying around 6lbs of computer with you (if you are lucky). Also, the more pixels being pushed by the computer, the quicker the battery drains, so that charger will also need to be in your bag. Of course, if your laptop stays mostly on your desk with only the occasional trip, these are not relevant. Also directly correlated to the screen size is the size of the keyboard and what keys it features. You will only find numberpads on 17” computers and most 15inchers (barring ASUS’s touchpad-numberpad it features on some of its smaller computers).
There are two monitor technologies sold in laptops these days: IPS and OLED. In a general sense, IPS is easier on the battery and OLED is easier on the eyes.
Regarding the resolution: the higher the resolution, the finer the image and the quicker the battery drains. I don’t recommend worrying about this for office work – how much would you spend to see a better-colored youtube video or whatever when the main purpose is work, which is fine? That is a question for you to answer. If you want to spend more on a higher quality screen, you can, but be prepared to suffer in the battery-life department (or spend a lot more).
Having said that, there are those to whom the monitor matter a lot: anyone who works in any kind of graphics work. There is more to the hardware necessary than the monitor, but the monitor should be a decent resolution (at least 2K). In addition, it should have gotten close to 100% on the sRGB test and more than 80% on Adobe’s tests. (This may take some research to determine. Look at reviews from professionals.)
Before we move on, there is a caveat which will be repeated or referenced throughout: money can solve most of the problems listed above. There are large computers that have good battery, and/or are light – but they are expensive. There are computers with OLED screens and / or high resolution that have great battery life – but they are expensive. Almost every cost brought with hardware can be mitigated if only you are willing to spend enough.
3. Build quality
Laptops run the range from the flimsy, barely believable junk to the virtually indestructible ones sold for construction sites or researchers at the mercy of the elements. We’ll take it for granted that most people want to avoid the former but don’t quite need the latter. I’ll address generalities first, then list some examples.
[Note: the following is what we in the business consider an OPINION, and should not be considered FACT.] In the fifteen years I’ve been helping people in this area, the most common request I get is “I want a computer that is built well.” Fair enough, but let us dissect the matter. Thinkpads and Latitudes (to be precise, T, X or X-series Thinkpads and 5xxx, 7xxxx, and 9xxx series Latitudes) have the best reputation – deservedly – in this area. They really do seem to last a long time, chugging along way longer than one would expect. Consider, though – a ten year old laptop may still run, but it is still ten years old. A cheaper laptop that lasts, say, five years, will often (almost always) cost half or less than half the price. In the meantime, you got fresh hardware halfway through those ten years.
This is not to say that no one should get these better laptops. If the buyer knows that the usage environment is sub-par, to the extent that knocks and scrapes are to be expected and the owner cannot treat the laptop properly, getting one made out of plastic is not advisable. The greater outlay may be necessary. [END OPINION]
I’m not listing gaming laptops, which have their own build quality hierarchy.
Junk quality: off-brands, Gateway brand (if not one of their $800 Creator laptops)
Basic quality (plastic): Dell Inspiron 1xxx and 3xxx, Acer Aspire 1/3, HP no-name, Pavilion, ASUS Vivobook (models with four numbers that start with 1), Lenovo Ideapad 1/3. In general, the 2-in-1s get the same hierarchy.
Slightly better than basic (still plastic): HP Probooks, Dell Vostro 3xxx and Latitude 3xxx, Acer Swift 1 and Vero, Lenovo Flex 3, Yoga 6 and Thinkpad E series (not sure about L series, but I think so too), MSI Modern series.
Metal, regular quality: HP Pavilion Plus, Envy, Elitebooks in the lower ranges (the first number in the 3 digits is the quality), Lenovo Ideapad 5/7, Thinkpad X series (except X1), Yoga 7, Acer Swift 3 (now rebranded Swift Go), Aspire 5/7, Travelbook, Dell Inspiron 5xxx and 7xxx series, Vostro 5xxx, XPS, LG Gram series (even though they don’t feel entirely metal), Samsung Galaxy (non-pro), MSI Prestige, ASUS Vivobooks (models with four numbers that start with 3) and Zenbooks.
Excellent quality: HP Elitebook 8xx or higher, Dragonfly, Lenovo computers than end with a 9 as well as Thinkpad T or Z series, Acer Swift Edge or Swift X, Dell Latitude 5xxx, 7xxx, 9xxx series, Samsung Pro models.
Note: the main difference between 1 and 3 series computers is the hardware – at the very least, the screen. (There have been some random sightings of Ideapad 1s with Ryzen 7s, for instance, but that’s just weird.)
4. Processor
5. RAM (Memory)
6. Storage
7. Graphics controller
8. Battery life
9. Other features you may find important
