ad120's 2019 London & Marrakech Trip Report

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This summer of 2019 best friend from London got married on a Wednesday in London. He requested that I come to London for the  אויפרוף and I happily obliged. While I was happy that I would have the opportunity to spend some time together before the wedding, I knew that I would need to keep myself occupied during the week of the wedding. Having been to London several times and not being so fond of Brits, I concluded that I would need to get out of town for a few days to stay sane. I looked at google flights and prices were very reasonable to Malta and Marrakech. I ultimately decided against Malta because it seemed like Malta was all about the beach and water activities, both aren’t gender segregated. I decided on Marrakech because I had never been to Africa. Marrakech seemed different than all other places I’ve been and was also intriguing.

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June 26th, 2019
DI 7016
11:00 PM JFK>LGW 11:00 AM 

I am a fan of Norwegian. I like their fare model because it allows you to choose what you want and they are often cheaper on their fares than legacy carriers. I have become less of a fan recently as they started charging for carry-on bags and increased the price of extra legroom seats. That being said, summer travel is expensive. I paid 335.50 GBP for the flight plus a checked bag. Because I am tall, I wanted to book an extra legroom seat but they were all taken. This was the cheapest fare that I was able to book at that time.
The Norwegian check in area at JFK is located at the end of Terminal 1. They do not share the area with anyone else. I flew with Norwegian in April 2019 from JFK to AMS and arrived at the airport less than an hour before my flight. There were just a few people in the queue and I was able to check in without a hitch (no bags). So I figured that for my London flight I’d be okay with arriving 1:10 before my flight.

When I arrived at JFK I was surprised. The line at check in was the longest line I’ve ever seen in my life! For those of you that know the area, the line wrapped around all the way down to the next airline’s check in area. It was insane.

Norwegian has the most flights to Europe from JFK. Almost all of their flights depart between 10:00 PM-12:30 AM. Online check in is not possible when departing from JFK. As a result, you have a lot of people checking in at the same time. To make things worse, if luggage isn’t prepaid, you have to go to the cashier to pay and then come back to the check in agent. This all causes major delays. Additionally, there isn’t a conveyor belt which checked bags get sent through. Rather the checked bags are tagged and stacked onto carts near the end of the counter and then are taken by airport staff to the appropriate area. It’s a mess. 

When I saw the line, I immediately thought that I wasn’t going to make it. When I got in line I noticed that the line was getting longer and not moving. I wondered how anyone in que would make their flight. Mathematically, there were too many people to check with not enough time for all of these flights. Suddenly an airport employee came around and advised us to use the self check-in screens. I have tried using these multiple times with Norwegian in the past but it didn’t allow me to check in. I therefore didn’t try it until I saw  others having successfully checked in. It was still prior to the 60 minute cut-off when I checked in but I didn’t get a boarding pass. I got a print out that said “see agent”. While I didn’t want to miss my flight, I felt relieved. I knew that I did my part (checking in prior to cut-off) and whatever happens from here is Norwegian's responsibility. I signaled the airport employee that was directing people to the kiosk and explained to her that there was no way that I could wait in line to see a check in agent in time for my flight. At first she attempted to get the attention of Norwegian staff but they told her to wait. Then she brought me to the baggage area and spoke with the Norwegian agent there. He brought me to the front of the line and helped me. He told me that the flight was full. I explained to him that I booked the flight a month in advance, paid for baggage, and checked in on time. He said he will give me someone else’s seat. I then mentioned that I have a bag to check and wasn’t happy about that. He told me to bring the bag over to him and printed a bag tag. At this point there was only 40 minutes until departure. Judging by the multiple luggage carts that were waiting to be taken away, I figured my bags would not make the flight. As it was close to my flight, I rushed to the PreCheck line and cleared in no time (PreCheck FTW!). Only then did I realize that I wasn’t given a bag claim tag. At the time, Priority Pass only had KAL Lounge and the AF Lounge in their network at JFK Terminal 1. Both of these lounges restrict Priority Pass members access during peak hours. I therefore proceeded to my gate where boarding had already begun and took my seat, 32F. Norwegian flies a 787-900 with a 3-3-3 configuration and so I was happy getting the aisle. Other than a 32 minute onboard delay, the journey was uneventful. The Norwegian staff was very courteous and attentive. I find that Norwegian's flight attendants provide great overall customer service.

Clearing border control at Gatwick was a breeze compared to when I landed in Gatwick in May 2019. Back then I was lectured by a big, fat, old, white English woman about not having a landing card. She also felt like expressing her opinions on Trump and then oddly felt that it was her duty to give me tube instructions. This time however, it was no longer necessary to have a landing card as an automated system was instituted. I then proceeded to baggage claim for my bags. I waited and waited and they didn’t show. I went to file a claim and was told that I can spend up to 40 GBP on essential items. Which by the way, I was only told after submitting receipts, they officially only reimburse half the clothing costs.

For this trip I was staying near my friend in Tottenham. I refused to pay the extra money to take the Gatwick Express and I just missed the Southern train to Victoria so I hopped onto the Thameslink to Finsbury Park and then a bus to Tasti Pizza. The pizza was very subpar and the “chips” lacked some salt. After saying my hello’s and settling in, it was time to spend my 40 quid. I hopped on the tube from Seven Sisters to Oxford Circus for shopping. While there were many designer brands with shoppes, coming from New York, it didn’t impress me. However I was happy to be introduced to the budget friendly Primark. I heard about Primark in the past but I never got the opportunity to shop there. If you haven’t been there you should go. The pricing is so cheap and the quality is decent. After shopping at Primark, I continued browsing the shoppes. I found good deals on Thomas Pink and Charles Tyrwhitt at T.K. Maxx but I didn’t buy any. From there I headed back to Stamford Hill on the tube and completed my shopping at not the best Sainsbury’s on the High Road. I did dinner that night at Deli 98 and it was quite busy as it was Thursday night.

During my time in London I davened at: Biala, Chevras Shas, Viznitz Monsey-London, and Bobov 45. I found that Biala, even though it can get crowded, provides the best overall experience. Additionally, while their heichal hatorah is small, their mikvah is really nice. I am sure there is a better place to sit and learn but I didn’t explore. On Shabbos I walked my friend with the procession to shul for his אויפרוף. The minhag is to sing him to shul. But I was the only one singing through the streets of London. The look on the faces of the Londoner’s was priceless! Got to love them Brits!! I then met the Vizhnitzer Rebbe for the first time in his shul  after the אויפרוף (which took place in his shul). If you are in London, I’d say it is worth meeting him. He is a very real and down to earth person. I found him to be very relatable. I am not a Vizhnitzer. Food in London: the city leaves a lot to be desired. The only option for meaty takeaway was Deli 98 and it wasn’t anything too great. They rave about Grodzinski’s Bakery there. I walked in and had a difficult time finding pastries to buy as there was nothing exciting. It cannot hold water against any “standard” tri-state bakery. If you are looking for wraps and sushi, Grodzinski’s is the only spot in town from what I discovered. I didn’t try it; it looked good.  It is true that Golders Green may have more food options, their food establishments are nothing special either. I found having to walk ten minutes to get to the shoppes on the High Road annoying. If you are going to live in a city you should at least have shoppes at your corner.

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June 30th, 2019
BA 2668
06:40 AM LGW>RAK 10:20 AM

Having slept several hours on Shabbos afternoon combined with Shabbos ending at 11:00 PM meant I wasn’t going to get any sleep before my early morning flight to Marrakech. That night I ate Malave Malka at my friend’s and packed for my trip. My research for Marrakech came from American Express Platinum Concierge, Dansdeals Forums, and Trip Advisor. On DDF, I gathered that kosher food in Marrakech was complicated. Supposedly there is a woman that can cook for you if you preorder. I don’t know what her kosher standards are and therefore did not feel comfortable ordering food from her. I brought food with me, mostly junk food, for my 2 day trip. I planned
 At some ungodly hour in the morning I made my way to Seven Sisters underground station to catch the Victoria Line to London Victoria Station in order to connect with the Southern Railway train to Gatwick. I got off at London Victoria. Instead of going directly from the underground station to the train station, I accidently exited to the street. This cost me an extra 3 minutes which I didn’t have. Luckily, I did not need to buy a ticket as I had purchased a round trip ticket when I first arrived from the U.S. I made it to the platform and noticed the car was full and with 40 seconds left to board I decided to move forward to the next car. Unbeknownst to me, the train doors closes 30 seconds prior to departure and did so in my face. I wasn’t the only one that it happened to though and things got a little interesting. A train is not allowed to pull out of the station if a person is not standing behind the line on the platform.  While I stepped back, there were two proper English guys that were kicking off. They were refusing to move and violently protesting by banging on the windows and shouting profanities. Security came but these guys refused to move saying that the train is still in the station and hasn’t moved and we should therefore be allowed to board. Security then called the police who came twenty minutes later. In the meantime I went to the front of the platform to speak with the train conductor. I explained that I am not with those guys and I wasn’t seeking any trouble. I asked if he could let us onto the train. The train was already delayed and would be delayed further until the police arrived. I said that the passengers on the train have already been inconvenienced and don’t need to wait any longer. I therefore reasoned that at this point it would be in everyone’s best interest to open the doors and just allow us to board so we can all be on our merry way. Makes sense to me. But he gave a a classic english response: “Once the doors close, they cannot be opened”  Eventually the individuals moved away and the train pulled out of the station without me on it. The next train was 30 minutes later on first the Gatwick Express of the day. I was concerned because time was short but had no other option. I used the waiting time to start davening Shachris and continued onboard the train in an empty car.  Considering that my purchased did not cover Gatwick Express, I thought that I would need to pay to upgrade for that service. However no one came around for tickets. The train pulled in early and the duration of the Journey was a blazing 22 minutes. When I exited the train station at Gatwick Airport the exit gates were open and did not need to scan/swipe my ticket to exit the station. I basically rode the train for free. I then got a notification that my flight was delayed until. I checked in at the British Airways counter and proceeded through security to first stock up on snacks from a Priority PAss restaurant and then to the Lounge courtesy of priority pass. The lounge was nice but nothing to exciting. I gave myself enough time and arrived at the gate 15 prior to departure. It felt good to fly with a legacy a carrier. There is less stress that comes along with when flying them. I took my seat and waited to depart and then a delay way announced. The flight attendants started to move about the cabin handing out water. I was concerned about the delay because I had may day planned and I was relying on everything to go smoothly. Finally we pushed back from the gate. The flight experience was just as any other intra-europe flight on British Airways. The seats were 3-3 configuration with no legroom. At one point I asked a flight attendant from a cup of water and he told me that it would be for purchase. I was thinking to myself, “Dude, we just encountered over an hour delay and you want to charge me for water?” I understand that BA is trying to make some money by selling snacks and beverages, but isn’t this part of the reason why people pay extra to fly legacy carriers?
I read about the immigraition mess Marrekech online before the trip. I was advised to ask for a  customs and immigration form from the flight attendant and fill it out inflight as it would save a significant amount of time. When I asked for a form towards the end of the flight, the flight attendants did not know any form.
We landed at around 4:00 PM. Already late for my planned itinerary, I was still hopeful that immigration would go smoothly. I hustled my way to the immgration area and what seemed to be no lines quickly turned into a mess. There is a form on a small peice of paper that everyone needs to fill out. The problem is that there aren't always enough forms and people don’t necessarily come equipped with pens. After I finally got a form and then had to wait in line to use a pen to fill out the form. I then waited in line with what felt like an eternity until I got through passport control into the baggage claim area. Wherever you go in Marrakech you will find someone trying to aggressively sell you something. This is seen immediately when you pass through immigration control. As soon as you get to baggage claim there are mobile phone providers giving out free sim cards hoping that you will sign up for service with them. However they only accept cash and there are no ATM's in the baggage claim area. I figured that I'd be able to get a SIM in the arrivals hall so I declined the offer thinking that if I take the SIM, I must top up. To leave the baggage claim area, you need to put your bags through a bag scanner which I did and then proceeded to the ATM in the Arrivals Hall. I was surprised that there weren't any shops in the arrivals hall. I then figured out Marrakech airport isn't particularly large and a short walk down the hall led me to the departures area. There was only one shop in that area selling one mobile provider SIM and they wanted an absurd amount of thirty Euros that didn't even include much data or airtime. This was insane considering that service bundles are super cheap and SIM cards are free in Morocco. I refused to pay that price. But now I was stuck. I had no service, didn't speak Arabic or French and I didn't know how to get to my riad. A few moments later, a foreigner asked me if I needed a SIM card. He said that the Maroc Telecom rep gave it to him for free in the baggage claim area and that he didn't need it. It was like Hashem sent this guy from nowhere just for me. I felt rescued. I thanked him and went to the newsstand in the terminal to top up with service. My phone issues were now resolved, or so I thought. In fact it only started. I typically don't use a Smartphone. For this trip I borrowed my dad's old iPhone 6. The phone was way past its time and had an extremely short battery life even when using a battery pack and at times it wouldn't even charge. For some reason the phone service did not immediately work after activation. I was kind of screwed at that point. I decided that I would take the bus from the airport to Jemma El-Fna hoping to find a Maroc Telecom office there and get some help. As soon as I stepped out of the terminal I was hit by the upper 90 degree Marrakech summer weather. It was hot! I waited for the bus, paid my fare (40 Dirham return ticket). Shortly after, I arrived in Jemma El-Fna. I took a few moments to take it all in. The chaos was nuts! This was the first time I've seen something like this. I asked a police officer where I could find Maroc Telecom. They said that they were closed on sunday and none existed in the square. I then asked him for directions to my riad and he was vaguely familiar with that Street and pointed in the general direction. Now for those of you that haven't been to Jemma El-Fina, I will tell you that the market is huge. Imagine a public square that has like 6 markets leading into it from 6 directions. Each market has side streets intersecting and then the side streets have other streets with little to no signage. To make it even more difficult to navigate, these streets aren't a grid, rather they can snake around and suddenly end. Google maps isn't so reliable in the Medina either and often won't have your proper location. But for me google maps was anyways not an option because I couldn't get my friggin phone to work. Something else to note if you visit Marrakech take the advice from this upthread and bloggers online. Marrakech is a very aggressive city. Everyone is hustling. Preparing yourself will keep you safe. This is why when a middle aged guy started leading me to my riad I followed him but didn't fall for the "Good Samaritan" trick. I of course kept a safe distance from him in case I needed to retreat. I started growing a bit concerned when he started to lead me through the windy streets but then noticed a group of Austrailians who told me they were also looking for the same riad. Together as a group we followed the guy and he brought us to the Riad on "Derb Snane". He obviously then demanded that we all pay him for showing us the way and I obviously refused. He started shouting at me and I pretty much told him to bug off. Once he realized that he wasn't getting anywhere, he gave up and walked away. For this trip I stayed at the Airbnb listing "Riad Friends' '. I booked an entire room that had 4 bunks but they gave me a room on the rooftop with one double bed. The bathroom was outside my room and was shared. Right outside my door was a covered public couch area. Once I settled in I enlisted my host's help with my phone. But miraculously it started to work just as I asked for assistance. Considering that I was tired from my journey, or adventure I wasn't just yet ready to see some sights in the blistering heat. I therefore waited a bit and cooled off in my air conditioned room. As it was late, I adjusted my itinerary. I decided that I would visit the El Bahia Palace, synagogue, and Jemma El Fina a bit. You know they say that it's not a matter of getting lost in Marrakech because you undoubtedly will. Rather it is a matter of how many times you will get lost. So I set out to Bahia Palace and got lost somewhere along the way. This actually helped me get to know the area a bit but at the same time, I needed to find my destination and my phone was dying again. I really wanted to take photos with it but I had to conserve battery. When I finally found Bahia Palace I tried to open my phone but it said "Sim Locked". This was really frustrating. I didn't really know how to get back to my Riad and couldn't use google maps as a guide as my service was barred until I entered the SIM pin which was in my riad (it was actually in my pocket and I didn't realize until I got back to my room later on). I also didn't know how to get to the shul, though I knew the street name and that it was close by. I decided to try to make due without my phone. I paid the entrance fee to Bahia Palace and entered. This place was beautiful. It was really magnificent. The architecture was amazing. Unfortunately I did not have a tour guide and did not understand the meanings and the significance of the dome designs, the paintings, inscriptions, and architecture. My advice to you would be, get a guide. From Bahia Palace I went to look for the synagogue. This walk led me outside of the bustle and I saw what the houses of the locals look like. I saw the poverty that exists and the relaxed nature of the locals. I was invited by some teens on the street to hang with them and watch some board games but I declined in an act of vigilance. Back then I was less experienced and did not feel safe. But today, I would definitely take up the offer. After asking some people for directions I finally found the synagogue. While the synagogue wasn't grand it had some sort of exhibition that you needed to pay a nominal fee. It was very interesting to see how vibrant Jewish life used to be in Marrakech and tried to imagine people filling up the Shul back in the day. At the shul I davened Mincha and said some tehillim. Once I was done, I headed back to my Riad checking out Jemma El Fina along the way. I don't know how I made it, but somehow, I made it back to my riad and called it a night. The next day would be my first full day in Marrakech. I was excited to see what would be next.

[EliJelly]

They rave about Grodzinski’s Bakery there. I walked in and had a difficult time finding pastries to buy as there was nothing exciting. It cannot hold water against any “standard” tri-state bakery.

I bought some stuff at Grodzinski (or Grodz) in Golders Green and it was delicious. Their chocolate danishes were far superior than anything I've had from the many bakeries in the tri-state.

[EliJelly]

I enjoy reading your TR. It's always a good idea though to write in paragraphs. Maybe you should still edit it.

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I bought some stuff at Grodzinski (or Grodz) in Golders Green and it was delicious. Their chocolate danishes were far superior than anything I've had from the many bakeries in the tri-state.

Interesting

I enjoy reading your TR. It's always a good idea though to write in paragraphs. Maybe you should still edit it.

It's too late now, I will do that with future installments.

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July 1st, 2019
Koutoubia Mosque, Jardin Majorelle, and  Jema El-Fna

Considering this was my only full day in Marrakech I wanted to take full advantage of the city and therefore got an early start. I headed out to Koutoubia Mosque and passed through a quiet Jemma El-Fna. The Mosque complex is big and expansive and features nice architecture. For some reason I thought that the Mosque was opened to infidels but it is not. I took some photos and moved on. From there for about 1 dirham I hopped on a local bus to Jardin Majorelle. While it is inexpensive and faster to take a taxi to the garden, I opted for the bus as you obviously get the local experience and see more of the city. As it was the morning hour, the the streets were busy and the busses were full. Once on the bus, it took about 30 minutes to reach the garden. During that bus ride I was the only tourist and naturally got lots of stares. The bus stop was just about a minute walk from the Jardin Majorelle so after I got off I was there in no time.

Jardin Majorelle is a beautiful oasis like no other. The architecture, flowers, landscaping, and ponds are absolutely amazing. Even the bathrooms are beautiful. The garden is very diverse and cannot be compared to other gardens. It is truly one of a kind. I do not consider myself an expert by any stretch but gardens are one of the things I appreciate. You can easily spend a half day there as I did. From there I took the bus back to Jemaa El-Fna to do some shopping. This was a real experience. As a general rule, the starting price is ten times more than what you should actually pay. Bring your bargaining skills because you will need it. Also keep in mind that you should never be afraid to walk away if you don't get your price because once you leave, the vendors will run after you begging you to come back and purchase the item at your price. It works just about every time. Another thing to note, everyone is hustling and very aggressive. You will constantly be asked  to buy something if you refuse, they will follow and walk aside you. It gets super annoying and they don't take no for an answer. The best way to deal with these people is not to respond and ignore them as if they don't exist.

Back at Jemaa El-Fna it was the afternoon and the scene was bustling. I picked up a knock off designer watch for $10, which I accidentally left at my riad. I contacted them and asked them to send it to me after my stay but they wanted an obscene amount of money so I told them to keep it. I explored the other streets around the square away from the souk's and I found a nice throw blanket that I wanted to buy for my friend as a wedding gift. After wandering around for a few hours I headed back to my riad to recharge. After eating and relaxing, I went back to Jemaa El-Fna to look for a print shop to print my boarding pass for the next day's flight back to London. The market at night was alive. It was a totally different atmosphere. There was live music and all sorts of street performers. In general, it seemed like a different place. I wish I had some more time to spend in the market at night. Another thing I enjoyed about the markets was haggling for fun. The vendors would get so upset when you'd walk. After spending some time in Jem El-Fna I headed back to my riad for the night and got ready for the next morning's flight back to London.

[MeirS]

I bought some stuff at Grodzinski (or Grodz) in Golders Green and it was delicious. Their chocolate danishes were far superior than anything I've had from the many bakeries in the tri-state.

Just FTR, they have a new owner (management), and a new Hechsher.

[tov hashem]

Great TR THANKS for taking the time

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July 2nd, 2019
FR 3507
10:45 AM RAK>LTN 02:20 PM

My initial plan was to take the bus to the airport but considering I woke up a little late and did not daven yet, I opted for a taxi. It must’ve been like $8-$10 USD so it was not a big deal. Walking in the medina at 07:30 is surreal. It was surprisingly cool at 07:30 AM and it was very quiet. It is a real contrast from the usual. If you are visiting Marrakech during the summer, I’d recommend you start your day early when it is cooler and rest around 1 PM for a few hours when the temperature is unforgivingly hot. You can then go out again later in the day and experience the vibrance of Jemma El-Fna after dark. A short and quiet taxi ride later, I was in the airport. The ques for ryan air was long but because I wasn’t checking any bags I didn’t need to wait and I proceeded to the security checkpoint which moved relatively fast. After proceeding through immmigration, which too moved along well, I went to the lounge. The lounge was a relatively nice size lounge and quiet at this time of the morning. I took  a seat has some fruit and davened Shachris. After shachris I proceeded to my gate to board my Ryanair flight to Luton. Like most Ryanair flights there was no jetway so we walked from our gate to the aircraft. Our flight departed on time  and was uneventful. Things moved smoothly through Luton’s immigration and border control. From there I proceeded to the Easybus for my bus to Golders Green station to which I had already made a prior reservation. Just my luck, that day Easybus was very behind schedule. I had to wait 40 minutes. While the train is less convenient, it is more reliable. I would choose the train next time. After a ride on the congested M1 I was at Golders Green station. I went to Hummus Bar for Lunch/Dinner. I was thrilled to finally be eating real food! After my meal I returned back to my hosts in Stamford Hill and spent some time with my friend one last time before he got married as the next day was going to be his wedding.

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July 4th, 2019
DI 7015
05:05 PM LGW>JFK 08:05 PM 

It was the day after the wedding and the day I would be returning home. I woke up and davened Shachris in Biala. Coincidentally I met the חתן there. After Shachris, I said my goodbyes and took an uber to Finsbury Park station    jumped on the Victoria line to catch the Gatwick Express from Victoria Station. Once again, no one asked for tickets. I got to Norwegian’s check in area 61 minutes prior to departure, 1 minute before cut-off time. I quickly checked in and printed my bag tags using the self service kiosk and just made it. When I went to check in my bags, the agents didn’t want to take it but they realized I had bag tags so they couldn’t refuse it. They were unhappy about it though. Proper lazy English folk. Considering boarding had already started, I decided to quickly load up on drinks and snacks for my flight and proceed to my gate. For this flight I purchased an exit row seat in advance and after boarding, I settled in to my seat. The flight was comfortable and about 90 minutes ahead of schedule. At JFK, I breezed through Global Entry and got my bags in no time. That day was 3 Taamuz and I took a taxi to the Ohel. At the Ohel I met up with my friend and after davening, I went home from there.