What started out as an ordinary September morning, turned out to be quite the extraordinary day. I was at my favorite coffee shop getting an iced coffee, when my friend
@MosheD posted a deal for business class availability to Japan. Japan was reopening after COVID and Japan Airlines was releasing multiple business class seat availability for the following year. This particular deal was for tickets booked using Alaska miles on Japan Airlines, at 60k Alaska miles per person, for one-way lie flat business class seats. Luckily, I had been stockpiling Alaska miles for years as a result of an Alaska business card authorized user application offer/glitch (now dead). I hurriedly paid for my coffee, and rushed to my office so as not to miss this opportunity.
Once at my office, I frantically searched for availability from the east coast to Tokyo, but couldn't find anything at 60k pp. Thanks to my buddy
@rileywiles23, I found availability for five between Seattle and Tokyo. With some hesitation, I booked one-way business class tickets from Seattle to Tokyo for late July, at 60k Alaska miles per person. I hesitated because I couldn't book return tickets, as it was still too far off in the future. DW, however, correctly pointed out that if I missed this opportunity, I would very likely regret it. Luckily, in due time, I managed to find five return business class tickets from Tokyo to Seattle, for the same 60k Alaska miles per person. We would still need to book separate tickets from New York to Seattle, but would worry about that later.
Although I had always been interested in visiting Japan, the difficulty in finding multiple business class award tickets for the family presented an obstacle. Thanks to
@MosheD and
@rileywiles23 for your help in making this trip happen. どうもありがとうございます
Unless you're interested in planning your own trip to Japan, skip ahead to Part 2.
Part 1 - Planning and Preparation We found this trip to be quite difficult to put together, though at the end of the day, it was much ado about nothing. I read a few trip reports on DDF, which were mostly helpful in deciding where we didn't want to stay and what we didn't want to do. However, we found there to be a lack of useful information in terms of kashrus in Japan and much other information posted online was either completely wrong, out of date, or just confusing. Hopefully, this trip report will lay out some useful information that we found helpful.
The Itinerary In terms of planning our itinerary, we wanted to spend a few days exploring Tokyo, and we also wanted to visit Hiroshima. I was very interested in Hokkaido and would have spent two weeks there (if not the entire trip), but we compromised on five days. For the tail end of our trip, we decided to base ourselves in Tokyo and take the Shinkansen (bullet train) on day trips. We weren't exactly sure where we would take the Shinkansen, but Nara, Kyoto, and Mt. Fuji were some of the areas we were interested in. Japan is quite large and we had to accept that we could only see and do so much in about three weeks.
Finding HotelsSince Japanese hotels are known to be quite strict about the number of guests they allow per room, we had to reserve two rooms at most of the hotels we stayed at. I initially reserved the Hyatt Regency for our first few days in Tokyo as it was only 15k Hyatt points per room per night. However, after reading the trip report by
@CR, where she had to buy a cup of coffee to get "free" hot water for soup cups, I knew I couldn't put up with that nonsense. Instead, I switched our initial Tokyo stay to the Andaz. For our stay in Hiroshima, which included the first Shabbos in Japan, I reserved a room at the Fav Hotel as it made more sense than reserving two rooms at the Hilton. For our second Shabbos in Tokyo, I initially reserved the Westin which permitted three persons per room, as I couldn't find any other points hotel within walking distance to Chabad that allowed three persons per room. However, the Westin offered a fairly lousy points redemption rate, so I did some digging and learned some interesting information. While the Grand Hyatt Tokyo (about a 30-minute walk to Chabad) only permits two persons per room online, you are permitted to bring a young child with you. To do so, you must first call Hyatt and have them add a note to your reservation that you are bringing a young child with you. We then switched our Shabbos reservation to the Grand Hyatt Tokyo (25k Hyatt points per night) and it worked out wonderfully. For the tail end of our trip in Tokyo, I again reserved the Andaz.
Before reserving Tokyo hotels, I looked into renting an apartment, which I thought might make more sense than reserving two separate rooms at points hotels. Chabad of Tokyo lists a furnished rental apartment company on their site - Tokyo Furnished - and I reached out to them about reserving an apartment for our initial Tokyo stay and for Shabbos, but their ridiculous response was contact us "4-6 weeks before the expected check-in date." A little over a month before our trip, they reached out saying they had availability. However, after sending several emails in response inquiring about specific dates, I heard nothing further. Ultimately, they emailed me back saying "Sorry for the late reply. Unfortunately, the dates you provided are not available." The dates were clearly available when I responded, but ultimately all availability mysteriously disappeared. They probably looked at all the reservation requests and chose the ones which minimized vacancies. Tokyo Furnished is a disreputable company, and I let Chabad of Tokyo know. Unfortunately, they are still listed on the Chabad of Tokyo website. My recommendation is to avoid Tokyo Furnished.
American Credit Cards & Exchanging MoneyDespite what some others have posted, American credit cards are almost universally accepted in Japan. The only time we had an issue with using our credit cards was for a small taxi fare in Hiroshima where the driver wanted cash (I'm assuming the credit card would have worked), and for taxi fare in Sendai, where a pin was requested and we had no idea if we set a pin for our credit cards or what it was. Other times when a pin was requested, we just said "no pin" and the taxi driver was able to work around it. Also, when loading/reloading our Pasmo subway cards (more on this below), we had to use cash. The owl cafe we visited in Tokyo was cash only as well. Our American credit cards were accepted everywhere else. Even in the wilds of Hokkaido, we never had an issue using credits cards, except that the campground required the nightly fee to be paid in cash.
We exchanged currency at the airport, as we wanted to get cash for immediate use. I called the Andaz to find out their exchange rate, and the rate offered by the currency exchange counter at the airport was much better. You can also use your ATM card at 7/11 stores to withdraw cash (there are thousands in Japan), which have ATM machines that accept foreign ATM cards.
Getting Around In Tokyo By SubwayTo get around on the Tokyo subway, we purchased Pasmo cards, (at one of the subway stations) which allow you to use any of the Tokyo subway lines (there are two subway systems in Tokyo). There is also a similar type Suica card. Luckily, we purchased our Pasmo cards right before they were discontinued due to a semiconductor shortage. From what we heard, Pasmo and Suica cards were no longer being sold as of August 2, 2023, although you can still obtain a digital Pasmo card for use on your phone. However, the good news is that Japanese commuter rail companies are introducing contactless fare payment systems compatible with credit and debit cards. This is similar to what is currently used in New York City, where you can pay subway and bus fare by contactless payment directly with your credit card. This contactless payment system is currently being rolled out and should be widely implemented within the next year or two. Expect to budget about 1,000 Yen per day for using the Tokyo subway.
Taxis in JapanEverything seems smaller in Japan, and this includes taxis. We lucked out upon arrival at Narita Airport by finding a large van taxi, which was able to fit all of us and our luggage for the trip to the hotel. Expect to pay around 30,000 yen for the trip from Narita to Tokyo. Haneda Airport is closer to Tokyo, but not all that much cheaper. However, outside the airport, it's rare to find anything larger than a sedan, although you might find a minivan. Most taxis will only take four passengers, though we had luck many times where the taxi driver allowed Little One to sit on DW's lap. There were several times when we were forced to use two taxis, such as from the airport in Hiroshima to the hotel. You can also try your luck with Uber if you need a minivan, although I found Uber prices to be slightly higher than taxi prices.
Shinkansen PassWe purchased a Shinkansen 7-day pass for the tail end of our trip, to use on day trips from Tokyo. The pass is also available for 14 or 21 days and includes the Tokyo JR subway lines. If you use this pass, it is an amazing deal. After some confusion about how and where to purchase the pass, we figured it out. You need to purchase the pass online and pick it up in person in Japan. You can purchase the pass at any time before you leave for Japan. It is also possible to purchase the pass in Japan, but for a higher price. Information about the Shinkansen pass can be found here:
https://www.jrailpass.comWe were able to pick up our Shinkansen passes in person at Narita Airport, at the JR office.
Kosher FoodWhen researching the availability of kosher food in Japan, we were not able to find much information. Other than several Chabad Houses that offer kosher food, we were unsure if we could purchase any soda or milk in Japan. We learned that Japanese Coke, Sprite and Orange Fanta sodas were kosher. We were also told that 100% milk was acceptable. There are no cholov yisroel products presently available in Japan, although you are welcome to milk a cow, as Chabad Rabbi of Kobe, Shmulik Vishedsky (Chabad of Tokyo - Rabbi Sudakevich's brother-in-law), told us he has done on occasion.
Japan does not permit you to bring in meat or poultry, but I know some folks who have brought meat products in. We weren't searched but didn't want to chance it. Instead, we brought a cooler full of cheese products. We also brought soup cups, bread, and lots of different kinds of snacks. When we weren't in Tokyo near Chabad, we purchased fruits, vegetables, rice, eggs, and lots of raw salmon to cook our own meals.
There is an international food supermarket in Tokyo, National Azabu, which sells a number of kosher products. We didn't actually buy any of the following items because we weren't cooking in Tokyo, but were curious as to what was available. We found the following kosher products: (i) frozen french fries; (ii) frozen bagels; (iii) cream cheese; (iv) butter; (v) granola; (vi) apple sauce; (vii) Pepperidge Farm cookies; (viii) Mauna Loa macadamia nuts; (ix) frozen fruits; and (x) Bonne Maman jams. I am sure there were more kosher products that we probably missed. Chabad of Tokyo also lists another international food supermarket, Nissin World Delicatessen, but we didn't check it out. Of all the convenience stores we visited, we found Natural Lawson to have the most foods/snacks with a hechsher, and by most, we mean about five.
You probably won't find any kosher products at Japanese supermarkets. What you will find, however, are amazing fruits. In Japan, fruit is viewed as a luxury, and it is of very high quality. It is also quite expensive. For instance, we purchase Japanese peaches, which are about double the size of American peaches, and they were absolutely delicious. Likewise, we found Japanese vegetables to be of very high quality. Japan also sells various items that are difficult to find in the United States. On one of our visits to Chabad of Tokyo, we stopped in a supermarket across the street, and purchased some fresh wasabi and salmon for sashimi. Unfortunately, it is quite difficult to find real wasabi root outside of Japan. The wasabi was delicious: almost like horseradish, but not as strong:
Sashimi with Japanese Wasabi, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
When we mentioned to Rabbi Sudakevich that we made our own sashimi with wasabi, he told us not to miss the nashi (Japanese Pear), so we went back to the supermarket to buy some. Not long after we returned home, it was Rosh Hashana, and lo and behold, we found nashi available in stores as a shehecheyanu fruit.
Chabad of Tokyo has some information about kosher food, which can be found here:
https://www.chabad.jp/templates/articlecco_cdo/aid/411231/jewish/Kosher-Japan.htmChabad of Tokyo also has a wonderful kosher restaurant, information about which can be found here:
https://www.chanasplace.comSome of the dishes we had at Chana's Place. Clockwise from top left: burger, chraime (spicy fish), shakshuka, pulled beef sandwich:
Chana's Place Restaurant, Tokyo Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
There are also Chabad Houses in Kobe and Kyoto that offer kosher food, information about which can be found here:
https://jewishkobeosaka.com/https://www.jewishkyoto.com/ (presently listed as being an unofficial Chabad House -https://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=102660.80)
I do not know much about the following, and perhaps someone knowledgeable might be able to chime in, but there is also an unofficial Chabad in Tokyo, information about which can be found here:
https://chabadjapan.org/The unofficial Chabad advertises a nearby kosher hotel, the ENT Terrace Omoro Sanno Kosher Hotel, as being the first and only kosher hotel in Japan (looks more like an apartment style accommodation booked through Airbnb). Information about the ENT Hotel can be found here:
https://www.entterrace.com/omori_sanno/Part 2 - Flight to TokyoWe made our way to Seattle on a Friday, leaving on an early morning Alaska Airlines flight. Before the flight, we stopped off at the Alaska Airlines Lounge at JFK. I asked if they had any kosher bread, and they graciously gave us a loaf of kosher bread to make sandwiches with butter, cream cheese, and peanut butter. And then we were off:
JFK - SEA - NRT by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We stayed at the Residence Inn Renton for Shabbos, as we had done once before, and took the opportunity to rest and relax before the flight to Tokyo. The timing of our trip worked out very well, as the weekend before, a famous pop star performed in Seattle, and there were no hotel rooms to be had. Oldest Kid asked at the front desk what it had been like, and was told that people were so desperate that they were willing to take rooms without working air conditioning.
While in Seattle, we visited Pabla Indian Cuisine for lunch and Einstein's Bagels for breakfast. Both have very good food and information about these two establishments can be found here:
http://www.pablacuisine.com/mainsite/index.htmlhttps://locations.einsteinbros.com/us/wa/seattle/2746-ne-45th-stI had been looking forward to some awesome pizza at Island Crust, but they lost their hashgacha some time ago and unfortunately are no longer kosher certified.
We were planning on spending a second Shabbos in Seattle at the end of our trip, but were unable to get a reservation at the same hotel, so instead, we reserved a room at the Element in Redmond. On Sunday morning before our flight, we dropped off a bag at the Element containing two boxes of Meal Mart meat cholent (not worth risking jail time for it) and the Crockpot, which we would have no use for in Japan.
The flight to Tokyo was uneventful, but for some unexplained reason they kept the temperature quite hot inside the airplane. I was worried that I was getting sick with a fever, until I asked DW and another passenger if they were hot. DW also felt quite hot and the fellow passenger mentioned that Japan Airlines sometimes keeps the temperature "toasty." It was a relief to hear that I wasn't getting sick right at the beginning of our trip. I suppose my expectations were too high, but the seat wasn't comfortable, and we weren't provided with a sheet to make the seat into a bed. The kosher meals were barely edible, although that seems standard pretty much everywhere. I thought Asian carriers were supposed to provide a nicer product than American carriers, but I can't say it was any better than flying United or Hawaiian in domestic business class. The flight attendants were, however, much nicer and more attentive than on our past domestic flights.
Japan Airlines Flight, Business Class Seat by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Enjoying complimentary Yamazaki Whiskey on the flight, which I have now unfortunately acquired a taste for (around $200 a bottle):
PXL_20230730_214208693.MP by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We were concerned about finding a large van at Narita Airport to take us to the hotel, so we started asking around in advance of our trip about taxis, but were having difficulty getting recommendations. Chabad recommended a taxi service and we tried making our own reservation online but simply couldn't figure it out. I decided that perhaps it would be best to ask one of our flight attendants for help to make the taxi reservation once we were underway. Surprisingly, even our Japanese flight attendant had difficulty with the taxi website - but after three tries, she was able to make a reservation for a large van. However, it was all for naught, as we later received an email saying the taxi service didn't have a large van available (despite there being an option for a large van on their website). It all worked out in the end though, as we managed to find a large van taxi at the airport.
Part 3 - Out And About In TokyoWe arrived at the Andaz quite exhausted, and decided to skip dinner at Chana's Place Restaurant that evening.
Andaz Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Our two rooms at the Andaz:
Andaz Tokyo by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Andaz Tokyo by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The Andaz has a really nice pool and spa, which were empty both times we went - only after some time did a few others show up. But it was never crowded. Also, the women's locker room (possibly the men's too but I didn't check) has its own sauna and hot tub, which is great for those concerned about privacy and mixed swimming. In addition, the women's locker room had seating areas, free products, swimwear driers, and fully equipped showers.
Pool at the Andaz:
Andaz Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Andaz Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Tokyo Skyline from the Andaz:
Toyko Skyline from the Andaz by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Complimentary fruits, juices, and muffins every morning:
Andaz Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
I very much enjoyed the use of the free coffee/cappuccino/hot water/tea machine in the Andaz lobby. It became our morning routine to get cappuccinos and bananas for breakfast:
Coffee Machine at Andaz Tokyo by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The Andaz also provides complimentary water, sparkling water, and sodas, which we also made good use of during our stay.
Shibuya Crossing & Hands Department StoreGoing straight to bed when we arrived meant that by the next morning, we were already on Japan time. For our first full day in Tokyo, we visited Shibuya Crossing, known to be the busiest pedestrian crossing in the world, and often featured in movies and television shows. There are several ways to view Shibuya Crossing and the most popular is from the Shibuya Tsutaya Book Store, where there is a Starbucks on the second floor overlooking the crossing:
Shibuya Crossing, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Shibuya Crossing, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Shibuya Tsutaya, however, will be temporarily closed for renovations from October 31, 2023, until the spring of 2024. Don't fret because there are other ways to view the crossing. One of the other popular ways to view the crossing is from Shibuya Sky, which has a roof deck, but you need to pay for admission and reserve tickets in advance. Information about Shibuya Sky can be found here:
https://www.shibuya-scramble-square.com.e.apy.hp.transer.com/sky/Japan has a vending machine culture and there are millions of vending machines selling items such as green tea, bananas, noodles, and many other items. Near Shibuya Crossing, is Hands Department Store, which has an orange juice vending machine. The oranges are freshly squeezed on demand and the juice was delicious. We enjoyed it so much that we returned a second time:
Orange Juice Vending Machine at Hands Department Store, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Orange Juice Vending Machine at Hands Department Store, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Orange Juice Vending Machine at Hands Department Store, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Owl Cafe Mohumohu GinzaJapan also has a culture of different kinds of animal cafes. We decided to visit the Owl Cafe Mohumohu Ginza, where we were able to interact with various species of owls. There are a number of owl cafes in Tokyo, and we picked this one at random. Although Little One had a great time, we felt a bit sad for the owls, and I am not sure we would go again. If you are interested, information about this Owl Cafe can be found here:
http://mohumohu77.jp/Little One enjoying the Owl Cafe Ginza and photographs of some of the different owls:
Owl Cafe Ginza, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Owl Cafe Ginza, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Owl Cafe Ginza, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Owl Cafe Ginza, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Owl Cafe Ginza, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The Imperial PalaceOn one of our other days in Toyko, we visited the Imperial Palace, the residence of Japan's Imperial Family, even though we could only view it from outside. The guards at the Imperial Palace are called "Imperial Guards," and it was quite funny seeing Imperial Guard emblazoned on their uniforms, something that Star Wars fans might appreciate.
The current palace was rebuilt after being destroyed during WWII. The inner grounds of the palace are generally not open to the public. Only on January 2 (New Year's Greeting) and February 23 (Emperor's Birthday), are visitors able to enter the inner palace grounds and see the members of the Imperial Family, who make several public appearances on a balcony.
Imperial Palace, Toyko, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Imperial Palace, Toyko, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Imperial Palace, Toyko, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We tried to visit the adjacent East Gardens of the Imperial Palace, but gave up due to the oppressive heat.
Yushukan War MuseumWanting a respite from the heat, we visited the Yushukan War Museum, information about which can be found here:
https://www.yasukuni.or.jp/english/yushukan/When approaching the museum, which is located near a shrine, we were careful not to walk through any torii gates. Our reasons were twofold: we wished to avoid unwittingly partaking in any practices that might be perceived as idolatrous, and we did not want to inadvertently honor Japanese war criminals memorialized at the adjacent shrine.
Yūshūkan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Although somewhat prepared for the revisionist history, I was still offended and repulsed by the museum as both an American and a Jew. The museum blames the United States for Japan's aggression at Pearl Harbor, and speaks lovingly about Japan's alliance with Nazi Germany. According to the Japanese narrative, they were "forced into conflict by an imperialist west that starved Japan of natural resources."
Numerous displays within the museum celebrated the alliance with Nazi Germany without a hint of remorse or regret. Astonishingly, this commemoration continued even after WWII had ended. In July 1965, a tree planting ceremony was held by Japan and Germany to honor the 54 Japanese naval officers who perished aboard a Nazi U-Boat destroyed by Allied forces on May 13, 1944.
Another display spoke about Japanese "defenders" of the Alaskan Aleutian Islands against the "invading" US forces. I am not sure how the Japanese view themselves as defenders of a part of the United States that they invaded, but this too is a part of the revisionist propaganda you will see at the Yushukan Museum.
There was an interesting revisionist display about how "Western Powers Encroach on Asia" - no mention about Japanese aggression in China/Manchuria in the 1930's or of Japanese aggression in southeast Asia:
Display about how "Western Powers Encroach on Asia," Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Display about how "Western Powers Encroach on Asia," Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Another interesting revisionist history display discussed the Boxer Rebellion in China, claiming that the Japanese were the "saviors" of China. However, the Japanese were not the "saviors" of China during the Boxer Rebellion and there were frequent atrocities against civilians by the troops of many foreign powers, including by Japanese soldiers. But that is not, of course, the history you will find at the Yushukan Museum.
Despite the foregoing, I do not regret visiting the Yushukan Museum, as it answered a lingering question that I have wondered about for some time. We have visited Pearl Harbor twice, which is quite popular with Japanese tourists. I've always been curious about the thoughts of Japanese visitors to Pearl Harbor, and after my visit to the Yushukan Museum, I finally found my answer.
A significant portion of the museum was devoted to WWII, and there was a Japanese Zero airplane, tank, artillery and other WWII artifacts on display.
One of the few surviving A6M Zero airplanes on display in the lobby:
A6M Zero fighter aircraft at Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Type 99 20mm machine gun used on the Zero, Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan:
Type 99 20mm machine gun used on the Zero, Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Model 96 (1936) 15 cm Howitzer & Model 89 (1929) 15cm Canon. The Howitzer (on the left) was last used in Okinawa during WW2 and in June of 1945 was "fought to the last man":
Model 96 (1936) 15 cm Howitzer & Model 89 (1929) 15cm Canon, Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Here is a Model C56 Locomotive No. 31 from the Thai-Burma Railroad on display in the lobby of the museum. The Thai-Burma Railroad was constructed by Japan during WWII to avoid supplying their troops in Burma via the sea, which was vulnerable to attack by Allied submarines. What isn't mentioned is that between 180,000 and 250,000 Southeast Asian civilians and over 60,000 Allied prisoners of war were subjected to forced labor during construction of the Thai-Burma Railroad. Approximately 90,000 civilians died, as did more than 12,000 Allied prisoners.
Model C56 Locomotive No.31 from Thai-Burma Railroad, Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Type 97 (1937) Tank - last used in the battle of Saipan:
Type 97 (1937) Tank, Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
WWII Relics:
Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Yushukan Museum, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Tokyo TowerWhile in Tokyo, we visited the iconic Tokyo Tower, information about which can be found here:
https://www.tokyotower.co.jp/en/We opted for a top deck tour, and everyone had a lot of fun. Yes, it is very touristy, but we would still recommend a visit to the Tokyo Tower. In the lobby of the tower, there is a virtual reality racing game, and the top deck ticket includes one free play of the virtual reality game. In accordance with Japanese culture, everything was thoroughly sanitized between uses. Surprisingly, DW won the race but has no idea how that happened, as she can barely play Mario Kart on Nintendo:
VR Game at Tokyo Tower, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Photographs of and at the Tokyo Tower:
Tokyo Tower, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Tokyo Tower, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Tokyo Tower, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Ozu WashiWanting to immerse ourselves in Japanese culture through arts and crafts, we visited Ozu Washi, a store that sells traditional Japanese Washi paper. Ozu Washi has been in continuous existence since 1653, and you can find information about this store here:
https://www.ozuwashi.net/en/Inside of the store:
Ozu Washi, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Since we hadn't made reservations for one of their many arts and crafts classes, we weren't able to partake in their washi papermaking class, as it was full. However, they had various arts and crafts available under personalized instruction, and the kids very much enjoyed partaking in paper crane origami and in making laminated postcards.
Ozu Washi, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We also participated in the handmade postcard experience:
Ozu Washi, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Ozu Washi, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The finished product:
Ozu Washi, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
While at Ozu Washi, we were asked to sign their guestbook. Middle Kid looked up how to write her name in Japanese characters, and she did a good enough job that Google Lens was able to recognize it as her name.
Shabbos with ChabadFor our second Shabbos in Japan (the first is discussed below under Hiroshima), we stayed at the Grand Hyatt, a 30-minute walk to Chabad. I am sure some of you will want a comparison between the Andaz and the Grand Hyatt, both wonderful hotels, and I will try to discuss the differences between the two. The beds at the Grand Hyatt were much more comfortable than at the Andaz and we preferred the shower at the Grand Hyatt, which was easier to use. Also, the staff at the Grand Hyatt was very accommodating for Shabbos. We were escorted up and down the stairs each time we wanted to walk over to Chabad on Shabbos (we asked for the lowest possible room, and were on the third floor). This is not to say that the staff at the Andaz was not accommodating - they were also very accommodating and attentive to our needs.
The Grand Hyatt is a very busy and crowded hotel located in the Roppongi neighborhood, a lively and upscale entertainment district. By contrast, the Andaz felt much more intimate and was never crowded. But, the Andaz is located in the Toranomon Hills neighborhood, which is a business district without much going on.
The toilet at the Grand Hyatt was electric, as are most of the toilets we encountered in Japan. We were able to unplug the toilet from electricity, and asked for a pail to manually flush on Shabbos. We couldn't, however, figure out how to turn off the light inside the mini fridge for Shabbos, and ended up using our cooler filled with ice instead of the refrigerator to chill our Shabbos drinks.
Overall, the consensus is that we preferred the Andaz over the Grand Hyatt. We preferred the intimate atmosphere of the Andaz and the amenities at the Andaz were much better than at the Grand Hyatt. The Grand Hyatt did not offer a complimentary coffee/cappuccino/hot water machine or complimentary juices, soda or sparkling water. Nor did the Grand Hyatt offer any complimentary fruits for breakfast.
Our rooms at the Grand Hyatt:
Grand Hyatt, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Grand Hyatt, Tokyo, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Shabbos at Chabad was very enjoyable. We met folks from Argentina, France, Israel, Italy, and the United States. There were several young Israelis touring Asia following completion of their army service, young families, young couples, and the usual assortment of strange ducks. And for once, Middle Kid was able to get a proper birthday cake in celebration of her birthday with a roomful of strangers singing "Yom Huledet Sameach" instead of the usual whipped cream on a cookie "cake." Also for the first time, Little One did gelilah by Mincha. He's turned it down before, but when Rabbi Sudakevich called him up, he went and knew what to do.
Part 4 - HiroshimaPerhaps for some of the same reasons that Pearl Harbor is popular with Japanese tourists, we wanted to visit Hiroshima. Also, we realized that we would be in Japan during the anniversary of the bombing, which would make for a very meaningful visit.
We flew from Tokyo to Hiroshima on ANA (all intra Japan flights were booked through UA at 5500 miles pp), arriving on a Thursday afternoon. We weren't able to find any large van taxis at the airport, and had no choice but to hire two taxis to transport the five of us and our luggage to our hotel. For accommodations, we stayed at the Fav Hotel, information about which can be found here:
https://fav-hotels.com/hotels/hiroshimaheiwaodori/We chose the Fav Hotel over a points hotel such as the Hilton Hiroshima for several reasons: (i) we were able to reserve only one room at the Fav Hotel, as it contained four separate beds, versus having to book two rooms at the Hilton; (ii) the Fav Hotel had a kitchen and washer/dryer in the room; and (iii) the Fav Hotel was only $152.42 per night.
Our room at the Fav Hotel Hiroshima:
Fav Hotel Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Combination washer/dryer in our room:
Fav Hotel Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We used Google Lens to translate the controls of the washing machine from Japanese to English. Here are the before and after pictures:
Fav Hotel Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Fav Hotel Hiroshima, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Fav Hotel Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Since we were going to be on our own for Shabbos, we visited the nearby Fuji Grand Supermarket several blocks away. This was our first time in a Japanese supermarket and it was quite the interesting experience.
Apparently, bicycles are a very popular way for the locals to get around Hiroshima - here is the "parking lot" of the Fuji Grand Supermarket:
Fuji Grand Supermarket, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We were able to buy fruits and vegetables, and raw salmon:
Fuji Grand Supermarket, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We managed to fill up our shopping cart:
Fuji Grand Supermarket, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On the following day, we walked to the city center, where the Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, and the ground zero marker are located.
Photograph of the Atomic Bomb Dome before WWII:
Atomic Bomb Dome Before Bombing, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The present time:
Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Atomic Bomb Dome, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
While trying to cool off in the shade near the dome, we were approached by a group of Japanese schoolchildren, who told us they were "Peace Volunteers." They asked if they could explain the significance of the dome and proceeded to read through a scripted statement. The schoolchildren told us that the dome survived because the blast occurred almost directly overhead, and the pressure wave traveled straight down rather than from the side which would have destroyed it. Also, because the dome had many windows, the pressure wave blew out the windows and dissipated but the walls remained.
Schoolchildren in Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We then visited the ground zero marker, which marks the spot directly above where the atomic bomb detonated. The marker is located on a nondescript street near a hospital, a short distance away from the Atomic Bomb Dome:
Ground Zero Marker, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Ground Zero Marker, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Afterwards, we visited the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, and the exhibits were incredibly sad and moving. However, the impact of the museum was diminished by the awareness of Japanese atrocities committed against both civilians and military personnel during WWII, coupled with their unrepentant alliance with the Nazis. Without getting into a discussion about whether the United States should or shouldn't have bombed Hiroshima and Nagasaki, I could not get the recent imagery from our visit to the Yushukan Museum out of my mind, and kept thinking about the Japanese Nazi alliance and the Nazi death camps.
Information about the Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum can be found here:
https://hpmmuseum.jp/?lang=engSince our visit to the museum was a few days before the anniversary of the bombing, there was many preparations underway for the upcoming ceremony:
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Hiroshima Peace Memorial Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Aftermath of the bombing:
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Survivors and their gruesome injuries:
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Fused lump containing human bones:
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Skeletal remains of some of those who died in the bombing:
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Look closely at the dark spot on the steps - this is the shadow of a person sitting on the steps at the time of the bombing - that is all that remained of this person:
Hiroshima Memorial Peace Museum, Hiroshima, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After a full day exploring Hiroshima, we returned to the Fav Hotel to prepare for Shabbos. This would be our first Shabbos in Japan, and we had to make some unusual preparations. The toilet was electric, but we were able to unplug it from electricity, and asked for a pail to manually flush the toilet on Shabbos. The lock on the door was completely electronic; the door locked electronically upon closing. We were effectively trapped inside the room for Shabbos. That being said, it was brutally hot and we weren't about to venture out anyway.
We had a meat-free Shabbos. For the Friday evening meal, we prepared delicious salmon cooked in tomato sauce along with home made fried potato kugel. For Shabbos day, we had parve cholent box meals heated overnight in a Hot Logic. Two boxes of Meal Mart cholent meals fit inside the Hot Logic very nicely, and they were surprisingly good. Challah (purchased from Chabad Tokyo), egg salad, tuna, and vegetable salad rounded out our meals.
We rested and relaxed on Shabbos to prepare for the next chapter of our adventure, Hokkaido, and on Sunday departed on a flight to Sapporo.
Part 5 - Into The Wilds Of HokkaidoHokkaido, the northernmost island of Japan, is known for its volcanoes, onsen (natural hot springs), its many national parks, and amazing skiing. This was the part of the trip I was most excited for, but my enthusiasm was tempered by the sheer size of Hokkaido, which would limit our time to one specific area. Unsure where we would venture, we decided to book a motorhome for our five nights in Hokkaido, which would give us freedom to roam. After much research online, we settled on renting a motorhome from Arigato Campervan Rental Hokkaido, information about which can be found here:
https://www.arigatocampervan.com/We reserved the "Banks"/"Bunks" motorhome for five nights, for a total cost of 167,500 yen (approximately $1136 USD at the current exchange rate), including insurance, unlimited miles, free Wi-Fi device and iPad, and free pickup and drop-off at the Sapporo airport. The Bunks is the largest motorhome available from Arigato, and we were unable to find a larger motorhome from anyone else. If you've ever seen one of the old skits about the circus clowns coming out of a tiny Volkswagen Beetle, that was us coming out of the motorhome. The motorhome had bunk beds in the rear, a bed over the front cab, and a dinette that converted into a bed. But, with all of us inside, you could barely move. Our motorhome rental earlier in the summer (
https://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=133787.0) was a veritable mansion in comparison. I don't regret getting the motorhome for Hokkaido, as it was very convenient to have the refrigerator. However, if I was to do this again, I'd book hotels in addition to the motorhome.
Notably, the motorhome didn't have a shower or bathroom. Mr. Ishikawa, the owner of Arigato, explained that campgrounds were not very developed in Japan like they are in the United States, and there is no way to flush the black and gray water tanks. We were worried about finding public restrooms to use, and asked Mr. Ishikawa for an emergency toilet (foldout cardboard box with toilet seat on top and some bags), but our concerns turned out to be unfounded. Japan has a culture of allowing the public to use retail store and restaurant bathrooms, and every public bathroom we found was clean.
We were warmly greeted by Mr. Ishikawa at the airport:
Our warm welcome to Hokkaido, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We were then taken to Mr. Ishikawa's home, to pick up the motorhome:
Hokkaido, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Following a brief orientation, we stopped off at a supermarket to pick up some supplies, before heading off to our first "camp" spot for the night. We quickly learned that motorhome camping in Hokkaido is much different than anything we were accustomed to. Many campgrounds require reservations and close their gates by a certain time. We calculated that by the time we were done with shopping, the campgrounds close to Sapporo would already close their gates. Instead, we camped for the night at the Lake Utonai Tourist Welcome Center. Mr. Ishikawa explained that it is very common for campers to stay at tourist welcome centers all over Hokkaido, as the camping is free and there are clean 24-hour restrooms available, albeit with no showers.
Information about Lake Utonai can be found here:
https://hokkaido-tomakomai.com/utonaiko/Our spot for the night at Lake Utonai:
Lake Utonai, Hokkaido, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
A word about safety - when we arrived after dark, almost all of the parking spots were occupied, and yet many people were sleeping in their vehicles with the windows wide open. One minivan even had both rear doors open wide, with curtains for privacy.
Camper with open window:
Lake Utonai Tourist Welcome Center, Hokkaido, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Lake Utonai:
Lake Utonai, Hokkaido, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Lake Utonai, Hokkaido, Japan by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The following day, with Little One seated between DW and myself (quite the treat for him), we set off on our approximately 5+ hour drive towards Akan-Mashu National Park, directing our GPS to a campground by Lake Onneto. This was my first time driving a vehicle with a steering wheel on the right hand side, but it wasn't very difficult to adjust. I would not have attempted driving in crowded urban areas such as Tokyo, but Hokkaido was mostly wide open and it was fairly easy to adjust. One note about roads in Hokkaido - there are toll and non-toll roads. Taking toll roads can save you a significant amount of time, but Mr. Ishikawa told us to avoid the electronic toll lane (ETC) as the motorhome was not enrolled in this program. He was unsure about other payment options and we ended up avoiding the tolls roads as we weren't sure if we could pay by cash or credit card. This turned out to be a mistake, as we learned on the drive back that you can pay tolls using foreign credit cards at non ETC toll lanes.
We arrived at Lake Onneto in the late afternoon, but couldn't find the campground, as the GPS directed us towards an empty area. We ultimately drove past the turn off for the campground, because the sign was in Japanese, ending up on a narrow unpaved rough forest road. Since the motorhome was pint sized, we were able to make a U-turn and head back. We backtracked and for some reason - one of the many instances of divine guidance we encountered on this trip - decided to turn off into the road leading to the campground. We were very happy to finally arrive at Onneto Lake Campground, information about which can be found here:
https://www.town.ashoro.hokkaido.jp/kanko/spot/spot-7.htmlWe were very fortunate to find this particular campground, as it had coin showers. Since many Japanese tourists visit Hokkaido for the onsen experience, most campground do not have showers. Mr. Ishikawa also told us that many hotels don't either have showers, because they are unnecessary. However, the onsen experience was not an option for us, as there was no private onsen available near the campground, and we were unwilling to bathe communally (without any clothes).
Onneto Lake Campground also had an outdoor products store, UPI, which is where you pay for campground fees. The store has a nice cafe selling coffee and soft drinks in addition to a variety of outdoor products including backpacks, knives, and camping gear.
