Topic Wiki

List of mechanics that have been recommended by DDfers:

Brooklyn
Empire Auto Center
485 Utica Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11203
(718) 756-6050

https://maps.app.goo.gl/wh8Mei7zwZPLJKHQ6

Ashers Auto Repair
3901 16th Ave, Brooklyn, NY 11218
Phone: (347) 240-7921

Lakewood

Betzalel Brezner 845-558-5547

Kuntri
Bruce’s Garage, Liberty

Tools that AutoZone lends for free:
https://www.autozone.com/lp/loan-a-tool


Author Topic: Car Repairs Master Thread  (Read 198154 times)

Offline AYHG

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Re: Car Repairs Master Thread
« Reply #1180 on: July 09, 2024, 12:35:35 AM »
Thanks

The air comes out cold, but not cold enough to cool down the car (I have left it on max cool for over an hour straight and it was still a bit warm inside). Someone told me that it's probably freon because otherwise it would not be cold at all. Does that make sense?

I called a place nearby and they said they don't bother checking out the car until they first put some freon in, and only if it still doesn't work will they check it out. If what you said is true I'm not sure why they would do that. But then again I don't really have much faith in mechanics to begin with.

It's also possible that the issue is one of the blend doors in the ducts.

Does the blower noticeably put out colder air (or more air) when you press the max A/C or recirculation button? If not, the door inside the duct is likely not opening/closing to recirculate, usually due to the blend door actuator. In many vehicles, the A/C will struggle to cool the car well on a very hot day on outside air alone without recirculation (it does this automatically if its set to auto temp even without selecting recirculation or max).

It can also be the door actuator that switches from hot to cold not fully engaging into the proper position. Any issues switching from heat to cool?

How long has this been going on for? If it's going on all season and is stable, it's more likely to be a blend door issue unless it's a very, very tiny leak. As notyettaken correctly points out: no leak=no refrigerant loss. It is extremely difficult to detect a leak without adding UV dye to the system. Even with the dye, it's often necessary to use a borescope to inspect the lines if the leak is in a part of the line that's hidden from view.
« Last Edit: July 09, 2024, 01:01:52 AM by AYHG »