Questions and Help for BEGINNERS!

[stbaum]

I'm charging full price for it. If ur interested pm me

OOC what were you planning on using it for?

[Adam101]

OOC what were you planning on using it for?

not sure. To be out of family members to buy them off me.. Not lechatchila...

[chucksterace]

Anyone here know the "Israel Aviation Services Law" in depth or know someone who does? United declined a claim under this and would potentially like to fight it, if I have a case.

[zh cohen]

not sure. To be out of family members to buy them off me.. Not lechatchila...

Why don't you just use it in any store?

[Adam101]

Why don't you just use it in any store?

Don't want to. I want to pay off my cc debt ASAP. It's to meet thresholds

[Ergel]

Don't want to. I want to pay off my cc debt ASAP. It's to meet thresholds

The danger of getting in over your head. Much hatzlacha

[notanonymous]

The danger of getting in over your head. Much hatzlacha

At least it is only 200.

[Adam101]

At least it is only 200.

ya times 2...

[ckmk47]

Try here for more info:  http://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=35941.msg794702#msg794702
It looks like RiteAid does take GCs for MOs.  Walmart certainly does (usually).

[HDS]

I have a card that is only a few months old with an upfront AF that I'm really not interested in putting regular spending on. (I'd keep it around if Chase makes it worth my while, but that's not my preferred outcome.) I've spent enough to hit the bonus and I'd rather not pay the AF. I have to cancel (or get a retention bonus) ASAP or I'll lose the ability to refund the AF.

I know that many suggest applying for new cards and then offering to move over the CL on cards that you wouldn't mind closing, effectively killing two birds with one stone. But, at the beginning of the year I was just getting into this, and I was pretty active with opening Chase and AMEX cards (Experian for both) though not much in the past month or two. I'm not sure if they'll approve me at all, on the basis of the number of Chase cards and the number of pulls, let alone the amount of credit. In that case, applying for new cards right now would be a waste of credit pulls, and possibly hurt or delay my chances of applying for new cards with Chase or AMEX for the next little while.

The question is really about how bad wasted pulls are, if that's how they end up.

Is the negative of wasted pulls detrimental enough that I should just call and cancel the AF card, moving the CL to an existing card? Or should I just go ahead and apply for new cards, not worrying about the potential for wasted pulls, and if I end up completely stonewalled after HUCAing, then just go ahead and cancel?

Thanks very much.

[notanonymous]

I have a card that is only a few months old with an upfront AF that I'm really not interested in putting regular spending on. (I'd keep it around if Chase makes it worth my while, but that's not my preferred outcome.) I've spent enough to hit the bonus and I'd rather not pay the AF. I have to cancel (or get a retention bonus) ASAP or I'll lose the ability to refund the AF.

I know that many suggest applying for new cards and then offering to move over the CL on cards that you wouldn't mind closing, effectively killing two birds with one stone. But, at the beginning of the year I was just getting into this, and I was pretty active with opening Chase and AMEX cards (Experian for both) though not much in the past month or two. I'm not sure if they'll approve me at all, on the basis of the number of Chase cards and the number of pulls, let alone the amount of credit. In that case, applying for new cards right now would be a waste of credit pulls, and possibly hurt or delay my chances of applying for new cards with Chase or AMEX for the next little while.

The question is really about how bad wasted pulls are, if that's how they end up.

Is the negative of wasted pulls detrimental enough that I should just call and cancel the AF card, moving the CL to an existing card? Or should I just go ahead and apply for new cards, not worrying about the potential for wasted pulls, and if I end up completely stonewalled after HUCAing, then just go ahead and cancel?

Thanks very much.

IMO, if you are not ready for an AOR, or not getting a great signup bonus on the new card, the best course of action would be to transfer the CL.

[HDS]

Thanks.

[ckmk47]

Or just lose the CL.  It sounds like you just got the CL increase a short 45 days or less ago, so it's loss would not be a big rating hit.

[HDS]

I actually needed to transfer $2K from another card to get the card approved, but even that "donor" card has only been around for a few months.

To confirm what you are saying, the real benefit of conserving CL is to not reduce long standing credit, particularly by a lot. If a. the CL is relatively low, and a relatively small amount of overall credit, and b. if it is relatively new, then there really isn't that big a downside to just losing the CL entirely if it comes to that?

[stevenr9]

I am new to this forum and blogs in general. Just trying to learn how to benefit from DDF. Suppose I want to go to LA and want ideas for traveling there- I go to the master LA thread and there is 376 pages- am I supposed to read 376 pages to get caught up and see if my questions or concerns were addressed? Unless you have been following every thread from the beginning or have an abundance of spare time- how are you supposed to learn- feels like I am entering a movie half way through

[MC]

Many threads have wikis which help A LOT. And if you have specific things in mind, you can do a search to see if they've been discussed...

[ckmk47]

I actually needed to transfer $2K from another card to get the card approved, but even that "donor" card has only been around for a few months.

To confirm what you are saying, the real benefit of conserving CL is to not reduce long standing credit, particularly by a lot. If a. the CL is relatively low, and a relatively small amount of overall credit, and b. if it is relatively new, then there really isn't that big a downside to just losing the CL entirely if it comes to that?

correct

[ckmk47]

I am new to this forum and blogs in general. Just trying to learn how to benefit from DDF. Suppose I want to go to LA and want ideas for traveling there- I go to the master LA thread and there is 376 pages- am I supposed to read 376 pages to get caught up and see if my questions or concerns were addressed? Unless you have been following every thread from the beginning or have an abundance of spare time- how are you supposed to learn- feels like I am entering a movie half way through

Good analogy.  When I joined up, I read some threads to learn and and found them also entertaining.
Read in your spare time.  Takes notes if necessary.  Create wikis or update them when you finish the thread to pave the way for those behind you.

[HolyHippi]

I've been a AU on a mileageplus explorer mastercard for a year. Several months ago I got a offer for Amex Preimer gold, I think it was prescreened. Does that mean I will still get accepted after that offer expired? Do I still have to apply for store CCs to get better credit before I apply for a real CC? Which card has the best bonus points for a new card ?

[ckmk47]

I've been a AU on a mileageplus explorer mastercard for a year. Several months ago I got a offer for Amex Preimer gold, I think it was prescreened. Does that mean I will still get accepted after that offer expired? Do I still have to apply for store CCs to get better credit before I apply for a real CC? Which card has the best bonus points for a new card ?

Getting a prescreened offer does not mean you will be approved.
Mileage plus is a chase card.  Your prescreened offer was from Amex.  You must be in the system and have a credit report and score.  Get yourself a free/cheap copy of your score and see what's doing.