In your opinion, how can someone sort through the thousands of wines on the market today to figure out which hechsherim are actually accountable and reliable?
beyond researching each individual wine (which is beyond the scope for even more conscientious consumers) , your left to rely on the hashgacha on the bottle. That's not necessarily a bad thing.
There are consumers who won't put something in their mouth if they don't know exactly where and how it was produced. This individuals generally don't consume very many manufactured goods. That's a level that most people aren't at.
I can give stories literally with almost every hashgacha that would cause some to question that hashgacha. I don't believe that just because I have a specific issue with said hashgacha, others can't rely on it.
You can try to find a local expert in that field who's willing to talk, but make sure he's actually an expert and not just shooting his mouth off