Hess Restaurant [2 of 2]
Rosh Chodesh Shvat - 1 Shvat 5769
January 26, 2009
Jerusalem Restaurant – Hess of Switzerland (Part 2 of 2)
Located in Yerushalayim – 9 Helene HaMalka Street – 02-623-2678
Under the supervision of Rabbi Yisrael Meir Levinger & Jerusalem Rabbinate (regular, not mehadrin).
Hess-m@inter.net.il
http://www.hess-restaurants.com/Hi folks,
It has been about 6 weeks since I released the first report on Hess Restaurant, and now, a bit in arrears, the completion of my report.
The report is based on a series of questions that I submitted to Ezra Levinger, who explained to me the restaurant’s certificate is provided by his father [as reported in part one], Rabbi Yisrael Meir Levinger, but in actuality, he is the mashgiach, not his father.
If you recall from the first report, I had asked Mrs. Hess to tour the kitchen and smokehouse facility to get a first-hand look at the kashrus operation, but my requests (yes, plural) were refused. Mr. Marcel Hess was quite adamant in his refusal as well, and it took a bit of persuading to just get the name of the mashgiach.
I will add my own two cents before presenting the factual data, Ezra Levinger’s response to my questions.
1. My contacts in the Chief Rabbinate of Jerusalem stated that “While Rabbi Levinger is known, formally from Switzerland, he is in no way authorized to grant a kashrus certificate to any business whatsoever, including Hess. As far as the Chief Rabbinate is concerned, Hess is under regular Jerusalem Rabbinate supervision and is not mehadrin, since Levinger’s certificate is not recognized.
That said, Rabbi Yitzchak Iluitzsky, director of kashrut in the Jerusalem Rabbinate, stated he knows Rabbi Levinger, who is known to be a responsible Torah observant man. The rabbi also stated that from his own personal knowledge, Hess is very stringent regarding the ingredients used in his store and smokehouse, and only family members, all Shomer Shabbat, cook and there are no non-Jews or non-observant Jews involved in the food preparation stage whatsoever.
Rabbi Iluitzsky chalks up Mr. Hess’ refusal to open the kitchen to a different cultural perspective on things, stating “that is how the Swiss are”.
2. From my perspective, any restaurant unwilling to cooperate and exhibit kashrus transparency leaves me with a most uncomfortable feeling. Of all the hotels and restaurants I have entered, small and large, Hess’ response is unprecedented and somewhat ‘chutzpadik’ in my opinion. You the reader and potential patron shall do as you see fit.
3. Take for example the stores kashrus certificate from Rabbi Levinger (
http://tinyurl.com/7s7e6q) which has the words “Badatz Sheiris Yisrael” in bold red, while other meats served, Rabbanut Yerushalayim, is in less obvious black, to diminish it and in my opinion, to deceive patrons into believing the certificate is that of the Badatz Sheiris Yisrael WHICH IT IS NOT. It is also the only kashrus certificate I have seen that does not display a contact name and number of the mashgiach, once again, deterring contact or investigation.
4. For the sake of thoroughness, regarding the sign posted in the store, a photocopy of the kashrus certificate of Agassi Fruits and Vegetables (
http://tinyurl.com/8jrksz) under the supervision of the Eida Chareidit, I did phone the store and the owner confirmed that Hess receives daily orders from him.
Following is a translation of the questions which I emailed to Ezra Levinger in Hebrew, receiving his responses in Hebrew as well.
1. HOW OFTEN IS THE RESTAURANT INSPECTED BY A MASHGIACH?
The Chief Rabbinate’s mashgiach enters daily and I make occasional appearances, without announcing my schedule in advance.
2. HOW OFTEN IN THE SMOKEHOUSE FACILITY INSPECTED?
I am also the mashgiach in the smokehouse for the Jerusalem Rabbinate. I have a key and enter as I please, unannounced. From time-to-time, I am also present for the actual manufacturing process.
3. IS THERE A MASHGIACH PRESENT AT ALL TIMES IN BOTH FACILITIES?
The mashgiach is not present full time in either place since the proprietor is a Shomer Shabbos individual.
4. MR. HESS TOLD ME THAT “THE MASHGIACH DOES NOT CHECK REGULARLY” BECAUSE THEY KNOW THEY CAN RELY ON HIM. IS THIS THE CASE IN ACTUALITY?
There is no such scenario. Of course there is an element of trust, but I am personally familiar with his entire operation, both the restaurant and the smokehouse, as required.
5. PLEASE SPECIFY THE INGREDIENTS USED IN BOTH THE RESTAURANT AND SMOKEHOUSE, INCLUDING BUT NOT LIMITED TO VEGETABLES, SPICES, PRESERVATIVES AND OTHER ADDITIVES AND OTHER COOKING INGREDIENTS.
The smokehouse uses almost exclusively meat, with few additives. (Due to professional ‘immunity’ I cannot detail the other ingredients, but I can assure you that are all under “good supervisions”.
In the store, in addition to the spices, which are under the Badatz Agudat Yisrael, the vegetables are from a source under the Eida Chareidit and I can attest to this. The greens are only the ‘Gush Katif’ type with certificates. There is no ‘heter mechira’ ingredients regarding shmitah year.
6. THE CERTIFICATE OF RAV LEVINGER STATES MEATS ARE SHEIRIS YISRAEL OR RABBANUT. IS THIS SO?
The frozen meats are provided by Hacker, Sheiris Yisrael supervision. The remainder is Jerusalem schita (slaughter) glatt (chalak) with the exception of goose, which is not mehadrin but a regular Jerusalem supervision. This item is sold in packages only.
7. ARE THERE SEPARATE UTENSILS FOR NON-KASHERED LIVERS?
The livers prior to the kashering process are held in unique utensils not used for anything else. In addition, the washing of the livers is done in a sink used exclusively for this purpose.
8. DOES THE STORE ACCOMMODATE THE STRINGENCIES OF BOTH THE RAMA AND BEIT YOSEF?
Yes.
9. IS THERE ANY SUPERVISION ON THE SIFTING OF FLOUR, INSPECTION OF GRAINS AND LENTILS AND THE WASHING OF VEGETABLES?
The sifting of flour, opening of eggs, the washing of greens and inspection of lentils are all done as per my instructions. By the way, regarding the lentils, we try to my the “Ki Tov” brand [which comes vacuum packed and bug free as per the supervision of the Eida Chareidit].
10. HAS THE CHIEF RABBINATE AUTHORIZED RABBI LEVINGER TO GIVE A KASHRUS SUPERVISION?
Rabbi Levinger’s supervision is done in cooperation with Rabbi Iluitzsky, who heads the Kashrus Dept. of the Jerusalem Rabbinate.
RAV LEVINGER CONTINUES:
There is a matter which you did not address, one that is problematic in many restaurants, and that is the issue of bishul akum. The Hess Restaurant to my knowledge is one of the few places which excels in this area, that no non-Jews are in the kitchen and not even non-Shomer Shabbat Jews deal with the kitchen and food preparation. In addition, the pouring of wine is done exclusively by a member of the Hess family or a mashgiach, even the bishul wines. Any ingredient entering the store must have a reliable ‘Badatz’ hechsher. We use only the well-known Badatzim such as Rubin, Belz, Rav Landau, Sheiris, Agudah, Beit Yosef, Yoreh Deah, OU, OK, Jerusalem Rabbinate Mehadrin, Rechovot Rabbinate Mehadrin and the like.
Simple things such as coffee and tea we also accept hechsherim of agencies abroad, from local rabbinates.
If you have any other questions, please do not hesitate to contact me.
E. Levinger.
****
ADDITIONAL NOTES;
When I sought to gain access to the kitchen and smokehouse via Ezra Levinger, he told me he cannot permit me to do so without approval from the Hess Family, so I simply stopped asking.
There was much confusion in my mind regarding the supervision and the mashgichim so I phoned Rabbi Iluitzsky again, who explained the situation as follows.
From the Jerusalem Chief Rabbinate’s perspective, the restaurant and smokehouse facility have plain non-mehadrin supervision. The mashgiach for the store is David Elmaliach. The mashgiach for the smokehouse is Ezra Levinger, a son of the rabbi giving the supervision but in this case, he is employed for both, the rabbi and the Rabbinate.
If you recall, Mrs. Hess told me the mashgiach does not enter the store too often because they are very reliable, since they are all shomer Shabbat. Elmaliach told me he enters several times a day. Make of this what you wish – I have no explanation to offer. I even told Elmaliach that Mrs. Hess told me he rarely comes in but he stated “this is not so. I am there everyday, several times a day”.
In short, I tried to present dry facts and leave you with an ability to make your own decision as is my goal with all the reports. I must say, for a small operation, this place has demanded many hours of my time.
By the way, I also asked Rabbi Iluitzsky why Ezra Levinger is permitted to be on the Chief Rabbinate payroll while he also works for his father, who may be reliable but nonetheless, “an unauthorized hechsher”. The rabbi explained that this may be the case; he and his colleagues are not concerned here since they feel the restaurant maintains a standard. He is more concerned directing his energy towards the bogus mehadrin restaurants.
I then questioned why Hess does not have Jerusalem Rabbinate Mehadrin instead of Levinger, to which Rabbi Iluitzsky stated that because of the non- mehadrin goose liver, sold in packages, he does not conform to Jerusalem Rabbinate Mehadrin standards.