Day 14 – Tuesday
Namche (3,440m) - Lukla (2,860 m)
Today was our last –and longest- day; over 12 hours of walking! For comparison it’s what we walked on days 1-3 on the way up.
We started out from Namche by a long steep downhill (by the way, I found out on the trek that going downhill for a long time is harder on you then going uphill in the long run; when you go uphill you use the same muscles as you do for general walking, you just work them harder, but walking downhill uses a whole different set of muscles (which you don’t use as often) and is therefore harder on your legs and calves). On the way we saw a whole lot of kids going up on their way to school, many of them nearing the end of a 3-4 hour walk which they do every day (we didn’t see them on the way up because then it was in the afternoon, now we were doing this stretch in the morning).
We made it to the bottom; from there it was mostly level with an overall downhill grade, walking for hours through various towns and hamlets in the valley. For lunch we stopped in a village called Phakding (pronounced… well never mind
).
Some of you might remember that the first day of the trek we walked mainly downhill; which made for a pleasant first day of the hike. What it meant now was that after walking for 10 hours we now had a 2 hour climb to get us to Lukla.
When we finally made it to the village, as luck would have it, it started raining (truth be told we were lucky it never rained in the last 13 days of trekking). We had to shlep through the entire length of the town to our hotel which was situated on the edge of the runway so we got an interesting view of the planes making their way up and down the hill (runway).
This hotel for once was truly “luxurious”, obviously not on par with an SPG level 6 resort, but deffinitly more like any motel you can find in the west, featuring bathrooms in every room, hot showers, and a bar offering high end drinks. We had a celebratory supper; our guide suggested we check out the nightlife in Lukla but the rain (and Frumkeit, and tiredness) won over and went to sleep.
Day 15 – Wednesday
Lukla (2,860 m) – Kathmandu (1,400m)
The next morning we woke up before dawn; flights to/from KTM start as soon as it’s light enough to fly in order to maximize the amount of flights, and we were on the first flight out. We had breakfast and headed to the airport.
If we thought KTM was chaotic Lukla was disastrous, people jammed everywhere, no wonder we heard people sometimes have to wait for a week or more for a flight. Fortunately our company took care of everything (knowing Nepali culture; probably by greasing a few pockets) and before long we had boarding passes for the first flight out. We headed towards security, here there was no reason to worry about ancient metal detectors the Lukla TSA solved that by just giving everyone patdowns.
Before long we were in the waiting area; really just a big room without benches or anywhere to sit. Looking out the window we finally saw the first plane chugging its way to the top of the runway. As soon as its passengers disembarked we boarded, said Teffilas Haderech, closed our eyes as the plane plunged off the cliff and we were airborne.
After 45 minutes we finally touched solid ground in Kathemandu. I took a taxi to Beit Chabad hoping to get my first real meal in 2 weeks only to get a rude welcome to reality; like hello this is the real world, who do you think is up at 8am?
Oh well!