Topic Wiki

Quick tips on random subjects that come up in between classes (will add as we go along):

Food photography tips
Newborn photography tips

Table of Contents (I'll change each line to a link as we go along.)

Introduction

1) Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR
2) Camera specs: What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?
3) Exposure Basics Part 1 - the shutter speed/aperture/ISO triangle
4) Exposure Basics Part 2 - getting to know your mode dial, and other exposure controls
5) All about memory cards
6) Using ultra-wide lenses





Lenses 101 - technology, terminology, and specs, zooms vs. primes, basic/advanced/unique lenses

Lighting 101 - focusing specifically on easy to afford and easy to use setups
Small flash - on camera, off camera, modifiers and accessories
Studio strobes
Continuous lighting - fluorescent, LED, and halogen
Basic light modifiers - umbrellas, softboxes, gels, reflectors
Basic supports - lightstands, umbrella brackets, backgrounds, etc.

All about accessories - memory cards, tripods, bags, filters, remotes, adapters, grips, geotaggers, and more)


So I bought all my stuff - now what?

What makes a compelling photograph?
Depth of field
Composition basics - rule of thirds, perspective, framing
Advanced composition - negative space, inclusion and exclusion, compression
Light - natural, golden hour, basic flash usage.

Let's start shooting...

Kids:
In the park
Playing sports
At home

Landscapes and wildlife:
"Grand" landscapes
"Intimate" landscapes
Seascapes
Waterfalls
Cityscapes
Wildlife
Birds in flight
Shooting in bad weather

Portraits:
Babies and newborns
Single person - indoors
Single person - outdoors
Families/siblings/groups
Natural light
Artificial light - simple
Artificial light - complex
Mixed light

Others:
Close up and macro
Product photography

How do I...? (Some specific scenarios/techniques - Basic)
Shoot out of a plane window?
Shoot underwater?
Shoot compelling black-and-white?

How do I...? (Some specific scenarios/techniques - Advanced)
HDR
Long exposures
Light painting
Twilight landscapes
Milky Way
Star trails

Basic editing concepts:
Exposure
Contrast
Clarity/sharpening
Color
Layers and masking

Poll

What type of camera do shoot with?

Point & Shoot - basic (Canon Elph style) or Smartphone
122 (36.9%)
Point & Shoot - advanced (Canon S100 or G Style)
52 (15.7%)
Mirrorless
26 (7.9%)
DSLR - consumer (Up to a Nikon D5200 or Canon Rebel)
74 (22.4%)
DSLR - prosumer or pro (Nikon D7000 or Canon 60D and up)
29 (8.8%)
P&S, but I plan on getting an SLR or Mirrorless in the near future
28 (8.5%)

Total Members Voted: 275

Author Topic: Learn Photography Master Thread  (Read 361343 times)

Offline Zalc

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #880 on: May 14, 2015, 07:58:42 PM »
Their auto features sometimes get wonky in video- focusing will visibly hunt when DOF is too shallow, without proper stabilization gear you can't hold it as steady as a camcorder..
I see those issues a bit, but the camera is pretty consistent about AF tracking. Another issue is that the focus peaking is not nearly as good as on the Olympus OM-D cameras, to the point of being nearly useless most of the time. (maybe I just need more practice?)

Here is a quick sample: http://youtu.be/FbITjEdBAeY
As you see, it cannot come close to a good camcorder (canon G30):https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qnHXhEXVFf0

The G6 is probably the closest thing to a camcorder without being one.
Nice. Practice, practice, practice! I might recommend a cheap shoulder mount or monopod to take out the jitters. Camcorders are just better at avoiding that.

I already have some experience with it, I'll probably get a monopod.
What kind of things should I be looking to correct?

Offline SLP

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #881 on: May 19, 2015, 08:52:34 PM »
Any recommendations for a backpack for my Sony a6000? I have the kit lens plus 1 prime lens. I also want to fit the Dolica Proline travel tripod from Costco. I've been looking into both dedicated camera bags and regular backpacks but would love some suggestions.

Offline bk73

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #882 on: May 29, 2015, 08:42:19 AM »
Does anybody have any experience good or bad using artisan state for photo books?

Offline whYME

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #883 on: June 21, 2015, 01:54:54 AM »
As soon as a card fills up, it gets separated from the camera. Each night, a full backup is done in duplicate, and the two backups kept in different locations.
I've been meaning to ask you for a while, what's your whole workflow here?
What happens once you get back from the trip and you have 2000 pictures (for example) saved in 3 places? where do you go from there?
i.e. what do you end up with when all is said and done? and what are the steps to getting there?
(I seem to remember you posting once what you end up keeping, but I can't seem to find it...)

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #884 on: June 21, 2015, 02:43:54 AM »
I've been meaning to ask you for a while, what's your whole workflow here?
What happens once you get back from the trip and you have 2000 pictures (for example) saved in 3 places? where do you go from there?
i.e. what do you end up with when all is said and done? and what are the steps to getting there?
(I seem to remember you posting once what you end up keeping, but I can't seem to find it...)

Firstly, this instant backup system gives me two copies, not three. Additionally, these will be clones of each other, so I won't have a couple of files in one place and a couple of files in the other. (This wasn't the case in Iceland, since from the time your laptop died we had to backup stuff on spare memory cards and on Chaiml's tablet. This left a bunch of files in different places and was absolutely not ideal. But normally I'd have one backup on a laptop and another on an external drive.)

So the workflow is something like this:

On-location backup:
1. Copy card to laptop.
2. Copy card to external drive.
3. Verify both copies by attempting to copy again and making sure everything triggers a "file already exists" error (very low-tech, but it does the job nicely).
4. Format memory card in camera to be ready for use again.

Sorting and culling:
5. Get home and copy the files to the appropriate folders. Verify from both backup versions that everything's there.
6. Import everything into Lightroom.
7. Start sorting and culling the files using flags, stars, and color tags. Obvious garbage (out of focus, mistaken pictures, etc.) get flagged as rejected. Bad pictures get 1 star, meh pictures get 2, and good ones get 3. A series of pictures that needs more intensive sorting (bracketed sequences, high-burst sequences, etc.) get the red label.
8. Do this process again. Most 1 stars get rejected. 2 stars move to either 1 or 3. Red gets either 1 or 3; bracketed sequences which need to be HDR tonemapped remain red.
9. Erase the worst of the rejects. A picture so out of focus you can't tell what the subject is, so blurry it's just strips, etc. Series outtakes sometimes also get erased at this point.

Editing:
10. 3 stars get edited in Lightroom's Develop module. If done, they get 5 stars. If they need further work in Photoshop, they get 4. HDRs get tonemapped and either 4 or 5 stars.
11. 4 stars move to Photoshop and get finished. Back to Lightroom where they get 5 stars.

Output:
12. 5 stars get different color labels depending on output (save to computer, Flickr, email, printing, photobook, etc.). If a single picture needs more than one color it gets virtual copies, each with the appropriate color tag.
13. One by one a color is selected and exported as needed.

Redo:
14. 3-6 months later, redo step 7. Chances are you'll find a hidden gem in the reject or 1 star pile, and not really like some previous favorites. Once you're a bit removed from when you took the picture, you're looking at things more objectively. You don't quite feel the emotions you felt while taking the photo, so you see things differently.
15. A year or two later, do this again. The advantage of this is that software is getting so much better, that some pictures that were rejected right away may now be salvageable. For example, a picture taken two years ago that was so underexposed it was completely black, could be easily fixed these days.

Erase:
16. Only once a few years have gone by do I start deleting remaining rejects and 1 stars. I also erase some original RAW files at that time, depending on the situation.
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Offline ChAiM'l

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #885 on: June 21, 2015, 05:19:07 AM »
Nice, thanks!

Offline BarryLincoln

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #886 on: June 21, 2015, 01:45:22 PM »
I have a Canon T3i and am thinking about purchasing a EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens to replace the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (that was part of the combo) and Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom lens.

I don't want to have to interchange lenses for every far/close shot and thought this lens would alleviate the need to do that.  And the lens is only $350 via Canon Refurb (http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/ef-s-18-200mm-f-35-56-is-refurbished-17976-1).

Wanted to advice from the pros on what I am giving up and whether this is the right move - thoughts?

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #887 on: June 21, 2015, 02:13:38 PM »
I have a Canon T3i and am thinking about purchasing a EF-S 18-200mm f/3.5-5.6 IS lens to replace the EF-S 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 IS Lens (that was part of the combo) and Canon EF 75-300mm f/4-5.6 III Telephoto Zoom lens.

I don't want to have to interchange lenses for every far/close shot and thought this lens would alleviate the need to do that.  And the lens is only $350 via Canon Refurb (http://shop.usa.canon.com/shop/en/catalog/ef-s-18-200mm-f-35-56-is-refurbished-17976-1).

Wanted to advice from the pros on what I am giving up and whether this is the right move - thoughts?

Besides for the obvious loss of range (200mm vs. 300) you're not giving up much. You may have a tad more distortion at either end, but probably not enough that you'll notice.
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Offline srf60

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #888 on: June 21, 2015, 02:16:37 PM »
Besides for the obvious loss of range (200mm vs. 300) you're not giving up much. You may have a tad more distortion at either end, but probably not enough that you'll notice.
What about getting such a lens (18-200mm) from tamaron or sigma, which are much cheaper(about $200)??

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #889 on: June 21, 2015, 02:28:25 PM »
What about getting such a lens (18-200mm) from tamaron or sigma, which are much cheaper(about $200)??

Tamron and Sigma (and Tokina) all make some really phenomenal lenses and some really terrible ones. On top of that, they often have multiple versions of similar lenses.

The Tamron 18-270 is not a bad lens (it has a better range that the Canon as well), but the Canon is better.
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Offline srf60

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #890 on: June 21, 2015, 03:10:51 PM »
Tamron and Sigma (and Tokina) all make some really phenomenal lenses and some really terrible ones. On top of that, they often have multiple versions of similar lenses.

The Tamron 18-270 is not a bad lens (it has a better range that the Canon as well), but the Canon is better.
Thanks. Have seen tamaron 18-200,18-250,and 18-300, whats the 18-270?
Also what's your opinion sigma vs tamaron?

Offline VacationLover

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #891 on: June 21, 2015, 06:49:17 PM »
I bought a set of filters including a CPL, FLD, UV, ND. But  i don't know when to use what. Can anyone share a link that explains when to use each filter?

Offline whYME

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #892 on: June 21, 2015, 10:27:45 PM »
I bought a set of filters including a CPL, FLD, UV, ND. But  i don't know when to use what. Can anyone share a link that explains when to use each filter?
CPL: To cut down (or eliminate) on glare/reflections. (usually lowers the exposure ~1 stop IINM)
FLD: You shouldn't need it for a digital camera.
UV: Never.
ND: To reduce the shutter speed without overexposing. (e.g. for moving water)

Offline VacationLover

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #893 on: June 21, 2015, 10:37:34 PM »
CPL: To cut down (or eliminate) on glare/reflections. (usually lowers the exposure ~1 stop IINM)
FLD: You shouldn't need it for a digital camera.
UV: Never.
ND: To reduce the shutter speed without overexposing. (e.g. for moving water)
Thanks so much. Isn't UV for the sun like UV glasses?

Offline whYME

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #894 on: June 21, 2015, 10:55:02 PM »
Thanks so much. Isn't UV for the sun like UV glasses?
I'm not sure I understand your question, but I'll wait for Something Fishy to explain it properly :)
bekitzur, what you're losing (e.g. a lot of light -unless it's a very expensive filter) far outweighs whatever the gain is. (almost nothing IIRC)

On a side note, if you're serious about using the filters you probably want to throw these out and get decent ones. (I'm assuming this a cheap junk set.) You don't want hundreds or thousands spent on camera/ lenses etc to be wasted by saving $20 or $50 on a filter...
« Last Edit: June 21, 2015, 11:04:36 PM by whYME »

Offline VacationLover

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #895 on: June 21, 2015, 11:03:31 PM »
I'm not sure I understand you're question, but I'll wait for Something Fishy to explain it properly :)
bekitzur, what you're losing (e.g. a lot of light -unless it's a very expensive filter) far outweighs whatever the gain is. (almost nothing IIRC)

On a side note, if you're serious about using the filters you probably want to throw these out and get decent ones. (I'm assuming this a cheap junk set.) You don't want hundreds or thousands spent on camera/ lenses etc to be wasted by saving $20 or $50 on a filter...
Thanks for your explanations. My kit was $39 - all 7 filters but ND. The ND was $60 for a ND2 to ND400

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #896 on: June 21, 2015, 11:11:35 PM »
I'm not sure I understand you're question, but I'll wait for Something Fishy to explain it properly :)
bekitzur, what you're losing (e.g. a lot of light -unless it's a very expensive filter) far outweighs whatever the gain is. (almost nothing IIRC)

On a side note, if you're serious about using the filters you probably want to throw these out and get decent ones. (I'm assuming this a cheap junk set.) You don't want hundreds or thousands spent on camera/ lenses etc to be wasted by saving $20 or $50 on a filter...

Thanks for your explanations. My kit was $39 - all 7 filters but ND. The ND was $60 for a ND2 to ND400

WhYME said it very well. There's no way you're getting a decent filter at that price.

A typical cheap UV filter cuts around 9% of light and doesn't accomplish anything useful. It'll also attract more dirt than the lens itself, be harder to clean, and introduce reflections (known as "ghosting"). Either buy a good one ($100+) or get it off your lens...

Same goes for the others. A good CPL will simply do a better job at eliminating reflections etc., while losing less light. An FLD filter will wreak havoc with your auto white balance - don't use it, ever.

A vari-ND for $60 is cheap as well, but is not necessarily indicative of a bad filter.

Mind posting links to what you got?

ETA: I'm not trying to bash you here ;). It's just that from all our conversations I know that you're interested in getting more serious about your photography, so I'm being open.
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Offline whYME

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #897 on: June 21, 2015, 11:28:54 PM »
Firstly, this instant backup system gives me two copies, not three. Additionally, these will be clones of each other, so I won't have a couple of files in one place and a couple of files in the other. (This wasn't the case in Iceland, since from the time your laptop died we had to backup stuff on spare memory cards and on Chaiml's tablet. This left a bunch of files in different places and was absolutely not ideal. But normally I'd have one backup on a laptop and another on an external drive.)
I know, that's what I meant. I had a feeling when I wrote "saved in 3 places" there might be some confusion, but at the time I couldn't think of a better way to say it. (I should've said "3 copies")
About 2 vs 3 copies, so you delete the full memory cards right when they fill up and you copy them? you don't wait until you need it again? I can see advantages of either way.

Sorting and culling:
5. Get home and copy the files to the appropriate folders. Verify from both backup versions that everything's there.
How do you sort your pictures? These days I just use LR's default option of creating a folder for every day. I used to group them by trip/event etc. but I never really knew what to do with all the random pictures that didn't quite warrant folders of their own...

Erase:
16. Only once a few years have gone by do I start deleting remaining rejects and 1 stars. I also erase some original RAW files at that time, depending on the situation.
I seem to remember you saying at some point that you don't keep most of the RAW files, so that was talking about after a few years?


Now the big question is what about the gopro stuff? That's where I'm really lost.

Thanks so much!

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #898 on: June 21, 2015, 11:46:37 PM »
About 2 vs 3 copies, so you delete the full memory cards right when they fill up and you copy them? you don't wait until you need it again? I can see advantages of either way.

Things have to be kept simple. While I'm out shooting I can't worry about a card if it was backed up or not, could I use it or not. With this system, if it's empty, it's available no questions asked.

How do you sort your pictures? These days I just use LR's default option of creating a folder for every day. I used to group them by trip/event etc. but I never really knew what to do with all the random pictures that didn't quite warrant folders of their own...

Simple folder hierarchy, kept in chronological order by using number prefixes (i.e. 01 - xxx, 02 - xxx). Split between personal and other (jobs, photography trips). Personal is kept organized by season and Yomim Tovim (01 - Winter 2014-1015, 02 - Purim 2015, 02 - Pesach 2015, 04 - Summer 2015, etc.). Each folder has additional chronological levels as needed for occasions, events, vacations, etc., as well as a Miscellaneous folder for whatever random stuff of that season.

I seem to remember you saying at some point that you don't keep most of the RAW files, so that was talking about after a few years?

I stopped doing that when Lightroom 5 came out and I saw what it could do to files I had given up on.

Now the big question is what about the gopro stuff? That's where I'm really lost.

Theoretically? Same thing as with pictures. Place in correct folder, cull (both files and parts of videos themselves), edit, and file.

In practice ;D? Plop them in a folder and "take care of it later"...

Pictures are easy, and are handled at the same time as all other pictures. It's the videos which are a PITA to deal with. I'm making some headway, but it takes a tremendous amount of time. Writing trip reports help, as I need to go through everything to look for interesting screengrabs and clips. But at this time I'm terribly behind in my personal clips.
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Re: Learn Photography Master Thread
« Reply #899 on: June 22, 2015, 10:48:51 AM »
WhYME said it very well. There's no way you're getting a decent filter at that price.

A typical cheap UV filter cuts around 9% of light and doesn't accomplish anything useful. It'll also attract more dirt than the lens itself, be harder to clean, and introduce reflections (known as "ghosting"). Either buy a good one ($100+) or get it off your lens...

Same goes for the others. A good CPL will simply do a better job at eliminating reflections etc., while losing less light. An FLD filter will wreak havoc with your auto white balance - don't use it, ever.

A vari-ND for $60 is cheap as well, but is not necessarily indicative of a bad filter.

Mind posting links to what you got?

ETA: I'm not trying to bash you here ;). It's just that from all our conversations I know that you're interested in getting more serious about your photography, so I'm being open.
Thanks!

I am not bashed but surprised... Didn't know what i am getting mysellf into when buying my first mirrorless and slr...

Here are some of what i bought, i can not find 1 more ND that i bought.

http://www.amazon.com/Polaroid-Premium-Package-Wonderland-Multi-Coated/dp/B00864XPGI/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1434984187&sr=8-5&keywords=40.5mm+nd+400

http://www.amazon.com/Concept-Variable-Adjustable-Microfiber-Cleaning/dp/B00N3N6GT0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1434984242&sr=8-2&keywords=40.5mm+nd+400

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00HVWPJME?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o02_s00

From my understanding, i can feturn all filters but the ND  ::)