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Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 386799 times)

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1140 on: April 01, 2015, 06:10:35 PM »
How does the Nex-5tl ($389 with viewfinder) compare with the Panasonic DMC-GF6 ($350)?

Quite similar, but the Sony has a better and larger sensor (so better low light/dynamic range) and a faster frame rate.

The Panasonic has a greater lens selection.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1141 on: April 01, 2015, 07:18:09 PM »
Quite similar, but the Sony has a better and larger sensor (so better low light/dynamic range) and a faster frame rate.

The Panasonic has a greater lens selection.
So the sony is better for indoor pictures even without the built-in flash?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1142 on: April 01, 2015, 07:22:28 PM »
Just got a Canon SL1 with 18-55mm kit lens for upcoming trip to maui.  Had been using an LX7 p&s and was very happy with it but i decided to just take it up a notch.  Went with the SL1 which was the top rated consumer reports best buy. Im a consumer reports junkie.  Paid $354 + tax (on $499) from staples after backing out all sorts of gift   cards, rebates, and points.  Im not going to accessorize (lenses and such) for Maui, just gonna mostly use intelegent auto (except for some night sky shots i want to attempt).  Ill see how pleased i am with the purchase in two weeks!

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1143 on: May 05, 2015, 05:19:43 PM »
I posted this in the Learn Photography thread by mistake, I'm reposting it here where it belongs.

What, in your opinion, is the best camera with great video under $600?

That means that video features (mic input, long record time w/o overheating and good constant AF) are a must.

I need a camera to shoot Camp video this summer, but I don't want to get a camcorder. for some reason (maybe sensor size?), all the sample videos from mirrorless cameras look way better (to me) that the video from good camcorders http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-video-camera/. Also, you get locked in to a single lens and it is probably worthless for still shots.

I'm thinking the Panasonic Lumix G6 is the best one for this, as it fulfills those 3 requirements, while taking good pictures and letting you get creative with lenses (M4/3). (also, it has a good viewfinder)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6
http://www.eoshd.com/2013/07/panasonic-g6-review-the-gh2-redux/

My only issues with it (I think) is that it still uses a %100 contrast based AF, which may be an issue for video AF tracking.

Any advice or alternatives are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1144 on: May 06, 2015, 03:24:58 PM »
I posted this in the Learn Photography thread by mistake, I'm reposting it here where it belongs.

What, in your opinion, is the best camera with great video under $600?

That means that video features (mic input, long record time w/o overheating and good constant AF) are a must.

I need a camera to shoot Camp video this summer, but I don't want to get a camcorder. for some reason (maybe sensor size?), all the sample videos from mirrorless cameras look way better (to me) that the video from good camcorders http://thewirecutter.com/reviews/best-video-camera/. Also, you get locked in to a single lens and it is probably worthless for still shots.

I'm thinking the Panasonic Lumix G6 is the best one for this, as it fulfills those 3 requirements, while taking good pictures and letting you get creative with lenses (M4/3). (also, it has a good viewfinder)
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6
http://www.eoshd.com/2013/07/panasonic-g6-review-the-gh2-redux/

My only issues with it (I think) is that it still uses a %100 contrast based AF, which may be an issue for video AF tracking.

Any advice or alternatives are greatly appreciated!

Thanks!

I was actually trying to sell my Panasonic G6 for months, finally sold it a few weeks ago to someone who was looking for exactly the same thing.

Its more-or-less a GH2 (exact same sensor) with a 1080/60p mode (GH2 only had 1080/30p, 60p was limited to 720HD) and focus peaking built in for easily adjusting focus manually. I used it for all kinds of things, especially long-form recording of events (hour+ long stage and lectures recording).

But honeslty? I found that I liked the colors coming out of the GH2 better. When the GH3 came out, they changed the color science, and the G6 took the GH2's sensor and tried to apply the GH3's color to it. Some people liked it better, I personally still prefer the old ones. So, I currently have 3 GH2s which I use for multi-camera setup when doing long-form recording like that, and I sold my G6 because it was a royal pain for the color to match them in post. So, no reason to hold on to it anymore.

Also, the GH2 can be hacked for higher bitrate recording, which actually looks nicer than the G6's bitrate. But, you can only buy a GH2 used these days. If you want a current-model product with a warranty that you can buy in a store right now, the G6 is probably the way to go.
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Offline Mordy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1145 on: May 06, 2015, 03:49:42 PM »
A note on Contrast-based AF... most consumer video recorders use contrast AF. Back when we all shot on camcorders like the DVX100 and HVX100 (*THE* cameras everyone in the business used back in the day), no one had even heard of phase detection focus outside of photography! Phase detection usually existed on DSLRs that use a mirror to bounce light to the sensor for AF, which meant that when shooting video (mirror up), or using a traditional camcorder (no mirror at all) you were working with contrast or manual. Since mirrorless cameras don't have a mirror (duh), they also usually don't offer PDAF since that is how a DSLR bounces light off the sensor to the AF system. Although some are starting too using these new dedicated on-sensor pixel systems, but that's still in its infancy.

Anyway, since camcorders traditionally have much smaller sensors than DSLRs, that wasn't much of a problem- the focus plane is deep enough that quick-precise focus adjustments were not necessary, not to mention focusing usually is performed in longer and more gradual motions vs the split-second AF that a stills camera needs. So, shooting contrast AF was never much of a concern. Now, however, we're starting to see large-chip video recorders, even DSLRs like the 70D, which have these new fangled dual-pixel AF systems to help it focus during video recording without resorting to contrast. Heck, I just played around with a Canon Vixia HF-30 (a really nice $1200 video recorder), and it had a phase detection system built in, which is something new as far as I'm concerned.
But you know what?

You don't need it, IMO.
1) First of all, my Sony A7s can shoot contrast AF with native lenses, or it can shoot full-time PDAF using a SLT adapter for their A-mount lenses (Sony's LA-EA4, which actually has a mirror and PDAF system in the adapter). So I've compared the speed and accuracy of PDAF with contrast AF. And for video, there isn't much of a difference. You don't want it to be split-second fast adjustment, so you don't notice any hunting or delay... it seems to work just about the same. When it works, that is. Which brings me to point #2...
2) Large sensors and autofocus don't mix well. The reason you like the mirrorless video better than the camcorders, is because the chip is larger, looking more like a motion picture (cinema, shot on s35mm film) vs video (shot on small chip TV cameras). This is why made-for-TV-movies in the 80s never looked as good as theatrical release movies. Ok, aside from the budget for cinema being much larger too. But even a low budget TV show, some were shot on film and looked more like movies than TV shows (nowadays, with digital cinema cameras, the lines are totally blurred between these two). I'm going off on a tangent here...
Bottom line- with a larger sensor, the depth of field gets shallower and more pleasing to look at, but also the more control over focus is required. Autofocus works great when the DOF is deep enough, but in shallow focus, even the best PDAF system will sometimes hunt or lock on to the wrong thing. Imagine shooting a baseball game from behind the catcher, and the focus system keeps trying to determine if the person in front should be in focus, or the batter, or the pitcher- because with a large enough sensor, all 3 could be on a different focal plane.

This is why people who work in professional video either focus manually, or use a small chip camcorder. Food for thought.


...on that note, I've used the AF on the GH2 and G6 before, and it isn't bad considering what it is. If the depth gets too shallow, I wouldn't trust it, but for most simple shots it works. Just don't be surprised if you find yourself needing to flip it on manual to keep it from bouncing around and hunting during a long event.

Whew. I haven't posted in a while. That was quite a rant.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1146 on: May 06, 2015, 04:09:47 PM »
Thanks for all that info!

Do you mind if I ask a bunch of questions? don't feel pressured to get to all of them...

I used it for all kinds of things, especially long-form recording of events (hour+ long stage and lectures recording).
How long did the battery last while recording video (I'll probably be using 1080p/60 MP4 for ease-of-editing)?
Did you buy 3rd party batteries? Any recommendations?
I found someone recommending this: www.amazon.com/dp/B005P6Q6A2. what do you think?

But honestly? I found that I liked the colors coming out of the GH2 better... it was a royal pain for the color to match them in post. So, no reason to hold on to it anymore.
So If this is my only camera, it's not a big deal if I'm OK with the G6 color profile?

If you want a current-model product with a warranty that you can buy in a store right now, the G6 is probably the way to go.
Do you think the price on amazon is good value-for-money? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6/?tag=cl03f-20
Do I need to buy another lens, or is the kit lens OK?

...on that note, I've used the AF on the GH2 and G6 before, and it isn't bad considering what it is. If the depth gets too shallow, I wouldn't trust it, but for most simple shots it works. Just don't be surprised if you find yourself needing to flip it on manual to keep it from bouncing around and hunting during a long event.
Does Ex-tele mode help with that by just using the middle of the sensor?

Whew. I haven't posted in a while. That was quite a rant.
Not at all!! it was very clear and informative.

Thank you so much.


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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1147 on: May 07, 2015, 05:06:31 AM »
SF (or anyone!), what do you say about this deal? refurb Sony NEX-F3K/S w/ 18-55mm f/3.5-5.6 lens for $190...

http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA15T2EJ3425&nm_mc=AFC-dealnews&cm_mmc=AFC-dealnews-_-NA-_-NA-_-9SIA15T2EJ3425

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1148 on: May 07, 2015, 09:01:26 AM »
Thanks for all that info!

Do you mind if I ask a bunch of questions? don't feel pressured to get to all of them...
I moderate a film making forum (DVXUser.com) and I'm friendly with Andrew Reid (who's article you quoted above). I'm used to this. :)

Quote
How long did the battery last while recording video (I'll probably be using 1080p/60 MP4 for ease-of-editing)?

The battery is reliable up to an hour, sometimes 1.5 hours, but I never trust it. I had a 2.5 hour concert once with 3 cameras and did not want to chance it, so I used a set of external power supplies that can reliably supply 9v for what I measured to be 5-8 hours of continuous recording. Of course, my card would probably fill up around 3 so I'd never go that long either way. But I built a little platform for it to sit on, either mounted to my hotshoe, camera cage, or flash bracket (as seen here: https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.10154956425710254.1073741835.570330253&type=1&l=251ed26924 )

Also, MP4 1080/60 is an odd choice. For ease of editing, I'd argue 1080/30 for standard NTSC compatibility, or 1080/24 for cinema-style frame frames. I only shoot 60 to slow it down on a 24 or 30p timeline and get some slow motion! MP4 is a bullocks container format compared to the AVCHD codec already, although I understand that AVCHD can be less friendly if you're using Final Cut to edit (reason 1,003 why I don't use FCP). So if the compression already isn't as good, why would try to shove that bitrate into 60 frames per second? At 30fps, you're getting twice as much bitrate per frame, which means more picture detail. Plus, its the industry standard frame rate in the USA. But, hey- its offered because someone must like it, right? Maybe that's you! ;)


Quote
Did you buy 3rd party batteries? Any recommendations?

I happen to know the people at Power2000, so I'd say get those as a shameless plug. :)
But I didn't pay for mine, so don't trust my opinion on that! LOL
Problem with third party batteries is that some of them don't accurately display how much power is left. The OEM ones have an ID chip, without that the camera won't trust the voltage reading and refuse to display it. The G6 actually worked with "half-chipped" batteries, displaying battery life on ones that my GH cams did not. I can't say how reliable they are because I've never used one for more than 40 minutes of recording, tops. Anything longer, I go with the external power as linked above.

Quote
I found someone recommending this: www.amazon.com/dp/B005P6Q6A2. what do you think?
Yes. That's the AC adapter. I bought one, and threw away the AC part. I just use the dummy battery to connect to my external battery supplies. Once I used the AC adapter at a graduation event, and someone accidentally unplugged me. Corrupted the data on my card. I'm never relying on that again.
Quote
So If this is my only camera, it's not a big deal if I'm OK with the G6 color profile?

Yeah, its ok. I got some decent color out of it with the right glass and settings. Here's some stuff I grabbed straight out of camera when I was testing it:


I just didn't like the skin tones personally, which you can't see well in this video. Its pretty decent, I'm just picky I guess. I do this for a living, so I think I'm allowed to be. :)
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Do you think the price on amazon is good value-for-money? http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00CFCTDD6/?tag=cl03f-20
I sold mine used for $445. I bought it new for $600 not too long before that. This seems about right for a new one now.
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Do I need to buy another lens, or is the kit lens OK?
That depends on your standards and needs. You can do a lot with the kit. I usually either leave it in the box or sell mine right away. But also have a closet full of lenses and adapters. :)
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Does Ex-tele mode help with that by just using the middle of the sensor?
IT makes the effective area of the sensor smaller, so technically DOF should be deeper for the same frame.... but standing in the same position, if your subject is far away and you are cropping the scene in, the seperation between them and the background is the same. It only changes if you zoom out or stand farther away. Also, ex-tele makes the picture a bit more noisy (since pixels are larger and can't be sampled out), and in the cases of slightly soft lenses or lenses with CA, they will appear softer/more CA.
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Offline Yehuda25

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1149 on: May 13, 2015, 06:23:35 PM »
anoybody else love the canon rebel SL1?
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Offline Mordy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1150 on: May 13, 2015, 06:36:57 PM »
anoybody else love the canon rebel SL1?

I'm sure there are people. I likely haven't met them.
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Offline FlyFirst

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1151 on: May 13, 2015, 11:15:31 PM »
anoybody else love the canon rebel SL1?
Rebel SL1 is my wife's dream, she now has the G15

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1152 on: May 13, 2015, 11:29:08 PM »
Rebel SL1 is my wife's dream, she now has the G15
she"ll love it, look out for one of the large canon rebates, I payed around $350 for it new
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1153 on: May 13, 2015, 11:32:22 PM »
SL2 announcement is expected after the summer, and may even be smaller.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1154 on: May 14, 2015, 12:18:35 AM »
Our Canon Power Shot just broke last week and we are in desperate need of something new fast. I hated it because it simply did not work indoors, the pictures came out fuzzy or pale. Reading this post I feel like I should progress to the next level for our new camera, but I was really hoping to get a new one for around $200. Is there anything worth buying in this price range, or do I just stick with a Point and shoot until our budget allows for a more expensive piece?
TIA

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1155 on: May 14, 2015, 12:33:48 AM »
SL2 announcement is expected after the summer, and may even be smaller.
oh wow, and any news if they will improve the video autofocus?
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Offline ushdadude

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1156 on: May 14, 2015, 05:23:13 PM »

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1157 on: May 19, 2015, 05:44:07 PM »
New Sony mirrorless cameras are possibly being announced this weekend. Will probably be only higher-end ones, though (a6000 level and above).
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1158 on: May 19, 2015, 07:27:42 PM »
anoybody else love the canon rebel SL1?
Yup, I have it for over a year and I'm very pleased with it.

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1159 on: May 19, 2015, 07:31:56 PM »
Yup, I have it for over a year and I'm very pleased with it.
yup, everybody that has it loves it!
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