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Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 387121 times)

Offline Work-for-ur-muny

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1340 on: March 17, 2016, 02:36:42 PM »
If I'm not using the bigger lenses I use this. It fits the 16-50 lens comfortably.
You finally got it ?
Would anyone know if this case is suitable for the nex7 too?
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Offline freddy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1341 on: April 19, 2016, 03:19:48 PM »
Looking for a basic point and shoot for around $50 which company should I get? Any recommendations for a specific camera?
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1342 on: April 19, 2016, 07:26:59 PM »
Looking for a basic point and shoot for around $50 which company should I get? Any recommendations for a specific camera?

Your best bet is to look at Canon's online store for refurbished cameras

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1343 on: May 03, 2016, 12:07:27 AM »
My nex-6 is giving me a message "Cannot recognize lens. Attach it properly." It happened one day from one moment to the next, has anyone had similar issues with their lens 16-50mm power zoom lens? Any easy fixes?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1344 on: May 03, 2016, 12:13:54 AM »
My nex-6 is giving me a message "Cannot recognize lens. Attach it properly." It happened one day from one moment to the next, has anyone had similar issues with their lens 16-50mm power zoom lens? Any easy fixes?

Clean the contacts on both the camera and lens. Use a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If that doesn't work use a q-tip moistened with alcohol.
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Offline menotyou

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1345 on: May 03, 2016, 12:28:18 AM »
Clean the contacts on both the camera and lens. Use a clean, soft, lint-free cloth. If that doesn't work use a q-tip moistened with alcohol.
The contacts looked very clean, but I did both and still nothing?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1346 on: May 03, 2016, 12:36:31 AM »
The contacts looked very clean, but I did both and still nothing?

Well then you have a problem :(.

Do your have another camera and lens to test? That'll tell you if it's your camera or lens making problems.
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Offline menotyou

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1347 on: May 03, 2016, 12:44:05 AM »
no I decided to splurge on this camera in the first place and was amazed at the difference bet this and a p and s, never felt the need for more lenses... especially at those prices. any other ways to test? I imagine no stores (in brooklyn) would let me try out their lenses, and my friends all have p and s'  :(

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1348 on: May 03, 2016, 12:57:25 AM »
Assuming the issue is the lens should I replace it with the same lens, I love the fact that it is so compact and I think the quality is great, I know there's always better... and cheapest with warranty is $298? is it possible that this kind of lens is more breakable?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1349 on: May 03, 2016, 02:02:17 AM »


I lost my lens cover already after a 2 days on the A6000. Where was that one that you linked to that's connected?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1350 on: May 03, 2016, 09:34:06 AM »
no I decided to splurge on this camera in the first place and was amazed at the difference bet this and a p and s, never felt the need for more lenses... especially at those prices. any other ways to test? I imagine no stores (in brooklyn) would let me try out their lenses, and my friends all have p and s'  :(

Go to a store. The idea is to put the other lens on your camera, and your lens on a different camera. See which works and which doesn't, and you'll know where the problem lies.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1351 on: May 03, 2016, 09:37:25 AM »
I lost my lens cover already after a 2 days on the A6000. Where was that one that you linked to that's connected?

You want my advice? Throw your lens cap down a well and never look back. The only things lens caps are good for is for forgetting to take them off and missing the shot, or losing them constantly. People don't understand a. how resilient the front element of a lens is, and b. how utterly inconsequential a scratch on a lens is.

Here's an exercise: take a piece of post-it note around 1/4" square and stick it over the center of your lens. Set your camera to a large aperture (small number) and take a random picture. Now look at the result - nine out of ten times you'd never know that there's a blob of yellow paper stuck on the lens. Now of course this is an extreme example; if you'd use a smaller aperture it may begin to be noticeable. But the point is that it takes an incredibly large imperfection to show up in your pictures. A whole bunch of pictures in my Alaska TR were taken by a lens that not only was it scratched up, but it actually had a chip in it - a chuck of glass around 1/2x1/8" was actually missing. Did anyone notice? I think not. I looked for it and did not find any indication, not even once.

The other point is that lenses are made out of thick, hardened glass. On top of that they have multiple layers of coatings (usually around 12-16), the outermost of which provide an additional hardened and protective layer. Take a blade to your lens (don't :o!) and you'll see how difficult it is to scratch it.

I've been lens cap-free for years, and not once did I regret it. My lens hoods never come off, and these protect the lens from 90% of the scary world already. My only caveat is a particularly wide and bulbous lens, such as the Nikon 14-24 or the GoPro. These lenses if kept uncovered will always bump into things, and due to their particular shape it'll always be on the same spot. Not that even a significant scratch will be visible on those; it's just that due to their wide angle of view light will often be hitting them at an acute angle, which may strike the scratch and create a tiny reflection. But for regular lenses, ditch the lens cap and keep the hood on. It'll change your (photographic) life.

You're welcome ;).
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1352 on: May 03, 2016, 09:41:17 AM »

Great. No cap it will be. I thought you had written that but couldn't find it.

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1353 on: May 03, 2016, 09:50:50 AM »
Wow... this is big. Samyang just announced their first autofocus lenses. While the prices were not mentioned, they're likely to be considerably cheaper than the competition. And if the quality is comperable to their manual focus lenses, well ;D.

What makes me most excited is the new 14 f/2.8. Their existing version is widely considered to be one of the best night- and astrophotography lenses out there, and at ~$400 is an absolute steal compared to the others (the Nikon 14-24 for example is $1900). Even if this comes in at $800 it's still a steal.

But best of all? FILTERS! This will be the first crazy wide lens the accept normal 67mm filters. I can't wait for the day to ditch the ridiculous and expensive LEE system I currently use.

The other lens is a 50 f/1.4 which is nice, but doesn't excite me as much.

So far these have only been announce in the Sony EF mount (full frame), but it shouldn't be too long for other mounts to appear.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1354 on: May 13, 2016, 12:04:15 AM »
Well then you have a problem :(.

Do your have another camera and lens to test? That'll tell you if it's your camera or lens making problems.
googled my problem and it turns out many ppl had same problem, and one of the comments on youtube video
said that throwing the lens in a bag, on the bed a few times works. I was very skeptical but almost a dozen commentors said that it helped, and it did!! ( I think I also banged it into my palm a few times)  I hope this helps anyone else who has similar experience

Offline YG

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Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1355 on: May 15, 2016, 01:13:37 AM »
@SF have you used the d500 or do you have first hand experience with low light performance?

I know the ISO speeds it offers are mind-boggling, but I'm wondering whether the d750, being Fx will still give cleaner better quality images than the d500 at any given ISO speed - within the range that it is capable of. My guess is that this would probably be the case, but I'd love confirmation from someone who is actually seen it rather than speculating.

I'm debating between the two, starting to get into video, so the 4K of the d500 sounds tempting, but apparently it can only shoot 4K up to 3 min at a time?
And the additional 1.5 crop for shooting 4K is also a concern.
And if the d750 ha significantly better IQ in low light that pulls me back away from the d500.

I need an upgrade primarily for video, I'm shooting with a d7000 which is adequate for still-frame but the video quality is sub-satisfactory. I prefer a Nikon dSLR because I'm familiar with them from several years of still-frame photography.
4K is definitely not a must, I just feel that if I am upgrading primarily for video, I might as well go 4K if it can work — for the greater versatility the footage will have when editing, allowing for significant cropping...

What are your thoughts?

[D500?  Not worth it?  A different dSLR?  Get over dSLR and go mirrorless for video?  If yes, what would be your recommendation?]

Thanks!!
« Last Edit: May 15, 2016, 01:41:24 AM by YG »

Offline YG

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1356 on: May 15, 2016, 08:31:12 AM »
So, it seems that the 3 min limit for 4K UHD video was made up, Nikon website clearly says 29:59 for 4K, and the crop is not ideal, but it's not the end of the world, just need to use a wider than usual lens, the question is whether there is something else that is hands down a better option for video — for someone who is already comfortable and familiar with Nikin DSLRs.

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1357 on: May 16, 2016, 01:16:20 AM »
Dunno if this is the right thread, But Citi extended warranty is asking me for a Copy of Manufacturer’s Warranty for the S110, can anyone link to it or post a PDF? multiple searches brought up nothing besides a denied access page on canon website.

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1358 on: May 16, 2016, 06:32:55 AM »
Dunno if this is the right thread, But Citi extended warranty is asking me for a Copy of Manufacturer’s Warranty for the S110, can anyone link to it or post a PDF? multiple searches brought up nothing besides a denied access page on canon website.
QTA (Quoted to Add)

Is this it? https://content.abt.com/documents/27298/CUSA_Limited_Warranty.pdf

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #1359 on: May 16, 2016, 12:09:34 PM »
@SF have you used the d500 or do you have first hand experience with low light performance?

I know the ISO speeds it offers are mind-boggling, but I'm wondering whether the d750, being Fx will still give cleaner better quality images than the d500 at any given ISO speed - within the range that it is capable of. My guess is that this would probably be the case, but I'd love confirmation from someone who is actually seen it rather than speculating.

I'm debating between the two, starting to get into video, so the 4K of the d500 sounds tempting, but apparently it can only shoot 4K up to 3 min at a time?
And the additional 1.5 crop for shooting 4K is also a concern.
And if the d750 ha significantly better IQ in low light that pulls me back away from the d500.

I need an upgrade primarily for video, I'm shooting with a d7000 which is adequate for still-frame but the video quality is sub-satisfactory. I prefer a Nikon dSLR because I'm familiar with them from several years of still-frame photography.
4K is definitely not a must, I just feel that if I am upgrading primarily for video, I might as well go 4K if it can work — for the greater versatility the footage will have when editing, allowing for significant cropping...

What are your thoughts?

[D500?  Not worth it?  A different dSLR?  Get over dSLR and go mirrorless for video?  If yes, what would be your recommendation?]

Thanks!!

I haven't had a chance to play around with the D500, but from everything I've read the D750 seems to have a 1/3-1/2 stop low light advantage over the D500. Not enough, IMO, to move go full frame over.

Regarding using the camera primarily for video, I hate to say it but Canon or the Sony A7 series is probably a far better choice. Nikon so far hasn't really been "getting" high-end video. Obviously the fact that you're comfortable with the Nikon system is a big factor here, but from a pure "which camera is better for video" perspective, Nikon is not the first thing to come to mind.
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