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Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 378960 times)

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #340 on: December 31, 2013, 12:05:30 AM »
70-300 is definitely worth $50 more than the 55-250.
Looking again at eBay I can probably save 150+ by selling the 70-300 and getting the 55-250. Id only do it if there was something worth the 150. I saw side firms where people said to get the 55-250mm and get a flash with the savings. Is IQ equivalent? As an amateur just getting started im not sure if the extra 50mm is something id need, or if a flash is better. I do take alot if indoor pictures for what it's worth.
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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #341 on: January 01, 2014, 09:58:08 AM »
You could get a Yongnuo YN468-II on Ebay for under $100 new. It does just about everything a Nikon does. You could even get theYN460-II for about $50 - it'll give you all the basics (TTL,  slave, etc.).
How does the 468II compare to the 500ex
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #342 on: January 01, 2014, 12:07:57 PM »
How does the 468II compare to the 500ex

It's the same concept as differences between the Canon 430 and 600, or the Nikon 700 and 910 - a lower end flash vs. a higher end one.

Some key benefits of the 500 over the 468:
- More power
- Better build (supposedly)
- Better zoom range
- PC sync socket
- Wireless TTL slave
- High speed sync (this is a vital feature - it lets you sue the flash past 1/200th (or 1/250th) shutter speed, meaning (on a basic level) that you could use it outdoors in bright light properly.)
- Better, bigger LCD
- More buttons, so easier to change settings.

It'll also be bigger and heavier.
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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #343 on: January 01, 2014, 12:24:16 PM »
It's the same concept as differences between the Canon 430 and 600, or the Nikon 700 and 910 - a lower end flash vs. a higher end one.

Some key benefits of the 500 over the 468:
- More power
- Better build (supposedly)
- Better zoom range
- PC sync socket
- Wireless TTL slave
- High speed sync (this is a vital feature - it lets you sue the flash past 1/200th (or 1/250th) shutter speed, meaning (on a basic level) that you could use it outdoors in bright light properly.)
- Better, bigger LCD
- More buttons, so easier to change settings.

It'll also be bigger and heavier.
Thanks.  According to the ebay listings it's only 20g more (about 3/4 oz), so only low side is it costs more :-)
How does short flash in bright daylight improve the picture quality?
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #344 on: January 01, 2014, 02:19:37 PM »
How does short flash in bright daylight improve the picture quality?

First of all it's not a 'short flash', it's using the flash during a short exposure. There's a huge and very boring technical difference ;D.

Now - the answer to to your question is long and complicated, so let me just give you a quick example here.

For this portrait shoot I was shooting into the sun, meaning that the sun was in front of me but behind my subjects. Doing that gave me the beautiful 'rim lighting' you see on the hats and hair, but this also means that there would be a serious contrast issue on the portrait. As you can see in the first picture, the entire family has this darkish, greyish, flat look.

How could this be fixed? Extremely simply - use flash. That will throw just the right amount of light onto the subjects from the front (or side), lighting them properly and adding beautiful contrast.

However, there's a problem. Since this is shot outside at the end of the day, it's quite bright out, which means that I'm using a very fast shutter speed. Problem is, the fastest a regular flash could sync up to a camera (meaning it would actually flash while the shutter is open and the picture is being taken), is 1/200th of a second (some cameras are a drop faster). That means that if my shutter is faster than that, I won't be able to use flash.

However, with a flash capable of high speed sync, you could use flash at far faster shutter speeds than that - typically up to 1/8000th of a second. This will allow you to use a flash outdoors in bright light, no matter what your shutter speed is.

For the second picture, I used an HSS capable flash, and so was able to create a great portrait even with the challenging lighting conditions.

You'll also notice that the second picture has more 'warmth' to it - the light on the family looks like golden sunset light. That's because I tweaked the color of the flash output using a 1/8 cut of CTO gel. This is the subject for an entire lesson, but basically it means that you could modify the color by using cheap pieces of plastic taped over the flash. This is sometimes very desirable outdoors, and could really only be used to its full potential if you have HSS.

No flash, or flash with no HSS:


Flash using HSS:


I'm sure you've seen a picture of someone standing in front of a scenic overlook, or a beach, or whatever, and the background looks great but the person is a silhouette. By using HSS, you're able to turn the flash on and give out just enough light to light the subject for a balanced photograph. Without HSS, this is simply not possible.

Remember that everything in this post is very oversimplified, as HSS is a complicated technical subject with plenty of limitations and workarounds. But I think that my main point is quite clear - there are many times where HSS is invaluable, even on a simple family outing, not just for professional photography.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #345 on: January 02, 2014, 10:51:01 AM »
First of all it's not a 'short flash', it's using the flash during a short exposure. There's a huge and very boring technical difference ;D.

Now - the answer to to your question is long and complicated, so let me just give you a quick example here.

For this portrait shoot I was shooting into the sun, meaning that the sun was in front of me but behind my subjects. Doing that gave me the beautiful 'rim lighting' you see on the hats and hair, but this also means that there would be a serious contrast issue on the portrait. As you can see in the first picture, the entire family has this darkish, greyish, flat look.

How could this be fixed? Extremely simply - use flash. That will throw just the right amount of light onto the subjects from the front (or side), lighting them properly and adding beautiful contrast.

However, there's a problem. Since this is shot outside at the end of the day, it's quite bright out, which means that I'm using a very fast shutter speed. Problem is, the fastest a regular flash could sync up to a camera (meaning it would actually flash while the shutter is open and the picture is being taken), is 1/200th of a second (some cameras are a drop faster). That means that if my shutter is faster than that, I won't be able to use flash.

However, with a flash capable of high speed sync, you could use flash at far faster shutter speeds than that - typically up to 1/8000th of a second. This will allow you to use a flash outdoors in bright light, no matter what your shutter speed is.

For the second picture, I used an HSS capable flash, and so was able to create a great portrait even with the challenging lighting conditions.

You'll also notice that the second picture has more 'warmth' to it - the light on the family looks like golden sunset light. That's because I tweaked the color of the flash output using a 1/8 cut of CTO gel. This is the subject for an entire lesson, but basically it means that you could modify the color by using cheap pieces of plastic taped over the flash. This is sometimes very desirable outdoors, and could really only be used to its full potential if you have HSS.

No flash, or flash with no HSS:


Flash using HSS:


I'm sure you've seen a picture of someone standing in front of a scenic overlook, or a beach, or whatever, and the background looks great but the person is a silhouette. By using HSS, you're able to turn the flash on and give out just enough light to light the subject for a balanced photograph. Without HSS, this is simply not possible.

Remember that everything in this post is very oversimplified, as HSS is a complicated technical subject with plenty of limitations and workarounds. But I think that my main point is quite clear - there are many times where HSS is invaluable, even on a simple family outing, not just for professional photography.
Thanks for the great info, I look forward to the detailed lesson. I think i will def go due the 500ex.
That being said, any thoughts on keeping the 70-300mm lens, selling i the 70-300mm and getting the 55-250mm and saving about100-150? I know yogurt said the 70-300mm is worth at least 50 more.
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #346 on: January 02, 2014, 10:59:46 AM »
Thanks for the great info, I look forward to the detailed lesson. I think i will def go due the 500ex.
That being said, any thoughts on keeping the 70-300mm lens, selling i the 70-300mm and getting the 55-250mm and saving about100-150? I know yogurt said the 70-300mm is worth at least 50 more.

The 70-300 is sharper, had better range, and is full frame.

You have to see if that's worth $150 to you.
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Offline Mocha

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #347 on: January 02, 2014, 11:07:07 AM »
Going to on a few trips coming up and just wanted to know if it is worth lugging around a canon rebel eos xti or just get buy a simple point and shoot?

Offline whYME

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #348 on: January 02, 2014, 11:08:11 AM »
The 70-300 is sharper, had better range, and is full frame.

You have to see if that's worth $150 to you.
How about the 55-250mm vs the 75-300mm USM?
I know the 55 has IS and the 75 does not, other than that (and the range) what are the pros/cons?

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #349 on: January 02, 2014, 11:08:31 AM »
The 70-300 is sharper, had better range, and is full frame.

You have to see if that's worth $150 to you.
Is full frame a consideration given that I have an aps-c sensor now, or only if I have our may get a full frame sensor?
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #350 on: January 02, 2014, 11:17:43 AM »
How about the 55-250mm vs the 75-300mm USM?
I know the 55 has IS and the 75 does not, other than that (and the range) what are the pros/cons?

55-250 has better elements, plus a much closer minimum focusing distance (with the 75-300 you have to be at least 5 feet away in order to focus).

And of course IS, which is tremendously important on a long, slow lens like this.
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #351 on: January 02, 2014, 11:20:36 AM »
Is full frame a consideration given that I have an aps-c sensor now, or only if I have our may get a full frame sensor?

1) Since lenses are sharper in the center, and APS-C uses only the center of this lens, you have potentially sharper pictures.

2) Better resale value

Other than that of course if you upgrade you're golden, but for now that's pretty much that.
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Offline Nitantnel

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #352 on: January 02, 2014, 11:27:21 AM »
Don't want to start a new thread for this:

My canon elph's lens will not close -- no idea how my kid managed to pull this off :)

Is is gone, or is there something I can do to fix it?

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #353 on: January 02, 2014, 11:31:28 AM »
Don't want to start a new thread for this:

My canon elph's lens will not close -- no idea how my kid managed to pull this off :)

Is is gone, or is there something I can do to fix it?

Ah - the dreaded erectile dysfunction :(.

Sorry man - new camera for you. It'll cost you more than that to fix it.

And btw, your kids probably dropped or bumped it with the lens extended. #1 cause of death for P&Ss.
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Offline Nitantnel

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #354 on: January 02, 2014, 11:33:27 AM »
Ah - the dreaded erectile dysfunction :)).

Sorry man - new camera for you. It'll cost you more to fix it.

And btw, your kids probably dropped or bumped it with the lens extended. #1 cause of death for P&Ss.

OK, thanks.

Offline whYME

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #355 on: January 02, 2014, 11:34:56 AM »
What's your opinion on used (or in this case refurbished) lenses?
I think I should go for this one, it's only a few dollars more than I paid for my 75-300...

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #356 on: January 02, 2014, 11:38:57 AM »
What's your opinion on used (or in this case refurbished) lenses?
I think I should go for this one, it's only a few dollars more than I paid for my 75-300...

Would not hesitate on used, and especially not on refurbs.

1) Use only a reputable seller (B&H, Adorama, KEH, ebay with lots of good reviews, etc.)
2) Make sure there's a good return policy just in case.
3) Try it out beforehand, if possible (used only).
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Offline Mocha

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #357 on: January 02, 2014, 11:41:05 AM »
Going to on a few trips coming up and just wanted to know if it is worth lugging around a canon rebel eos xti or just get buy a simple point and shoot?
Anyone? Going to Israel/LA/HNL. Are pictures that much better that I'd notice a significant difference? I don't know much about photography.

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #358 on: January 02, 2014, 11:44:16 AM »
Anyone? Going to Israel/LA/HNL. Are pictures that much better that I'd notice a significant difference? I don't know much about photography.

Well you see a significant difference? Very definitely. Is it with the shlep? It's your back and your decision...

You should consider mirrorless - DSLR quality and (largeish) point and shoot size.
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Offline whYME

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #359 on: January 02, 2014, 11:44:47 AM »
Anyone? Going to Israel/LA/HNL. Are pictures that much better that I'd notice a significant difference? I don't know much about photography.

In case I ever get any doubts about investing in my new camera and taking this trip, all I need to do is compare my picture below with this one from Fishy's Flickr.
:)