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Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 378872 times)

Offline jaywhy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #440 on: January 28, 2014, 11:18:36 PM »

Offline sky121

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #441 on: January 29, 2014, 12:17:09 PM »
Is Amazon the cheapest place to get the Nex 6 at the moment?

      I'm giving away the Nex 5 and upgrading to the 6.

Also is there any reason to hold on to the kit lens with the Nex 5 and swap it with the kit lens  from the Nex 6?
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Offline Mordy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #442 on: January 29, 2014, 03:08:09 PM »
      I'm giving away the Nex 5 and upgrading to the 6.

Can I get on your recipient list? ;)

Kit lenses are usually similar but can vary depending on package and model. My GH1 came with an optional 14-140mm extended zoom, but my GH2 was a cheaper kit that only came with a 14-42. I sold the GH1 and gave them the new GH2's lens with it. I'm not really a fan of kit lenses in general, but coverage of the 14-140 is hard to pass up!

What are the details on the kits you are referring to?
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Offline sky121

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #443 on: January 31, 2014, 03:28:28 PM »
If anyone is in the market for a Sony and would like an extra zoom lens this is a pretty decent deal on Amazon.

Save up to $200 on the Sony 55-210mm Lens with a Qualifying Sony NEX Compact System Camera Purchase
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #444 on: February 01, 2014, 07:46:57 PM »
Nex 5 or Nex Alpha 5000?


I can't decide even after reading their reviews online.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #445 on: February 02, 2014, 10:24:19 PM »
Have the Canon Rebel t3I. I will be travelling soon and may not have access to a charger for close to a week. What's the best way to get a spare battery? And should I get 2 spares? Will be shooting a lot of pics over trip.

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #446 on: February 03, 2014, 07:23:53 AM »
Have the Canon Rebel t3I. I will be travelling soon and may not have access to a charger for close to a week. What's the best way to get a spare battery? And should I get 2 spares? Will be shooting a lot of pics over trip.
I got this one from amazon, great reviews...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Y0YZZ6/ref=oh_details_o02_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. If you are driving or have room you can also get one of the car jumper packs that have an outlet on them like this one
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #447 on: February 03, 2014, 09:02:19 AM »
Nice thing about Canon Rebels is that they don't require a "chipped" battery to power on. That is, unlike other cameras which require manufacturer batteries identified by an ID chip, cheap aftermarket batteries will work just fine Rebels. One caveat however is that it won't give accurate battery levels without the chip. You can find some cheap spares ranging from $7-$20, but be prepared that your camera might suddenly run out of battery when you least expect it!

Another thing to consider is a battery grip. Attaches to the bottom of the camera and gives significantly more power than an internal battery.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #448 on: February 03, 2014, 09:06:46 AM »
Have the Canon Rebel t3I. I will be travelling soon and may not have access to a charger for close to a week. What's the best way to get a spare battery? And should I get 2 spares? Will be shooting a lot of pics over trip.


I got this one from amazon, great reviews...http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006Y0YZZ6/ref=oh_details_o02_s02_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1. If you are driving or have room you can also get one of the car jumper packs that have an outlet on them like this one

Most generic batteries are just as good as the originals. So long as it has a good number of positive reviews you'll be good. I haven't used this particular brand, but it seems to be perfectly fine.

I'd also get 2 spares.

As far as car power goes, there's no need to get that monster - one of these will work just fine -

http://www.amazon.com/gp/aw/d/B003Q54V88?cache=9c2a44e581e84c5ecbb5c3ee04e6aa9d#ref=mp_s_a_1_6&qid=1391436095&sr=8-6&precache=1
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #449 on: February 03, 2014, 09:12:24 AM »
Nice thing about Canon Rebels is that they don't require a "chipped" battery to power on. That is, unlike other cameras which require manufacturer batteries identified by an ID chip, cheap aftermarket batteries will work just fine Rebels. One caveat however is that it won't give accurate battery levels without the chip. You can find some cheap spares ranging from $7-$20, but be prepared that your camera might suddenly run out of battery when you least expect it!

Another thing to consider is a battery grip. Attaches to the bottom of the camera and gives significantly more power than an internal battery.

Actually not. As a product developer for 3rd party batteries I could tell you first hand that Canon batteries are very much chipped, and not just for power levels. Canon's chips are simply easier to decode and they don't changing the coding too often, unlike other brands.

Most 3rd party batteries will in fact give you accurate battery levels.

And of course remember that a grip in and of itself gives no additional power whatsoever; it's still all dependent on the batteries he gets.
« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 09:16:01 AM by Something Fishy »
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #450 on: February 03, 2014, 10:38:03 AM »
Actually not. As a product developer for 3rd party batteries I could tell you first hand that Canon batteries are very much chipped, and not just for power levels. Canon's chips are simply easier to decode and they don't changing the coding too often, unlike other brands.

Most 3rd party batteries will in fact give you accurate battery levels.

And of course remember that a grip in and of itself gives no additional power whatsoever; it's still all dependent on the batteries he gets.


Indeed. You misunderstood my post (jumpy!). Canon oem batteries ARE chipped, but the rebels don't need them to be. I believe other Canon's (xxd and upwards) do require some sort of chip to power on. My point is, you can buy the super cheapest Chinese non chipped versions for a few bucks and they will work just fine, albeit without battery levels (I own a few of those), but only if using a Rebel as I understand it. In fact, a guy on one of my forums built his own battery out of a repurposed set of generic battery cells. Other cameras NEED a chip to to turn on and use the battery (or perhaps a "half chip", which is beyond the scope of this conversation). But I think you'll find what I posted above to be quite accurate. You can get cheaper rebel batteries than other cameras.

I was going to explain more about grips when I posted that (as long as one battery is chipped, you can usually get away with the others all being cheapos and the whole grip will act like an oem chipped set), but I'm typing from a phone or my way back from a trip. :-)
« Last Edit: February 03, 2014, 10:42:12 AM by Mordy »
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #451 on: February 03, 2014, 10:38:41 AM »
Nex 5 or Nex Alpha 5000?


I can't decide even after reading their reviews online.

bump
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #452 on: February 03, 2014, 12:34:36 PM »
bump

Honestly, maybe SF has some insider information that I don't, but wasn't the A5000 like, just announced? According to B&H it'll be a couple of months before it even hits shelves.

It looks like an NEX-style body, but really stripped down. More like a NEX3 than a NEX5, since there is no hotshoe mount or accessory port (so no external flashes), and the lack of a touchscreen + very plastic looking body. If I were looking at NEX5 class cameras, I'd take the 5N over this one.

Although, if strictly coming from a point-and-shoot frame of reference, the servo zoom buttons on the body combined with the servo-zoom kit lens makes it function a lot more like a point and shoot for those afraid of the DSLR learning curve, while offering the option of better lenses and growth in the future.

That's my 2 cents, but I'd like to wait for it to come out to comment on built quality.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #453 on: February 03, 2014, 02:08:58 PM »
Thanks for the help with the batteries guys. They seem pretty cheap I am going to just buy 2 of them. A car charger may be worthwhile as well.

In the Canon booklet it mentioned that I can charge it overseas without using an adapter. Does that mean that my battery won't get fried if I use a 220V outlet and a simple converter for the plug? And would that work as well for my spares?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #454 on: February 03, 2014, 04:07:46 PM »
Like Mordy said - the 5000 is an upgrade to the 3n, and will not be in stock for a while. The 5t is a much better camera. Among others, the focusing system is much better (phase detection + contrast detection), you get 10fps vs. 3.5, it has an accessory port for flashes and such, it had a touchscreen (and a much sharper screen, too), etc., etc.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #455 on: February 03, 2014, 04:13:49 PM »
Thanks for the help with the batteries guys. They seem pretty cheap I am going to just buy 2 of them. A car charger may be worthwhile as well.

In the Canon booklet it mentioned that I can charge it overseas without using an adapter. Does that mean that my battery won't get fried if I use a 220V outlet and a simple converter for the plug? And would that work as well for my spares?

So long as your charger says something like "110-240v" all you need is a plug adapter. It won't matter which battery if charging, as the charger is the one regulating the voltage.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #456 on: February 03, 2014, 06:25:04 PM »
This is 20 dollars with a car charger, 2 batteries and a standard charger.  2000 AMH (No clue what that means). Has pretty solid reviews (307 5 stars vs. 15 1 star). Seems like if I buy this I don't need to also buy a car charger.

http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B004VTAVLE/ref=pd_cp_p_1

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #457 on: February 03, 2014, 06:34:27 PM »
This is 20 dollars with a car charger, 2 batteries and a standard charger.  2000 AMH (No clue what that means). Has pretty solid reviews (307 5 stars vs. 15 1 star). Seems like if I buy this I don't need to also buy a car charger.

http://www.amazon.com/Wasabi-Power-Battery-2-Pack-Charger/dp/B004VTAVLE/ref=pd_cp_p_1

Ta-da! :D
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #458 on: February 03, 2014, 07:34:19 PM »
Ta-da! :D
Does Ta-da mean buy it or avoid at all costs!  ;D

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #459 on: February 03, 2014, 07:37:16 PM »
Does Ta-da mean buy it or avoid at all costs!  ;D

Lol. It means looks like you found the perfect thing. ;D
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