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Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 383395 times)

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #520 on: March 12, 2014, 09:56:51 AM »
My mom is looking for a new point and shoot. Her request:
Quote
i have the Canon Power Shot Digital Elph SD1100 IS.  The settings are all
messed up.  I don't know how to set up anything like flash, date, change
color.  Nothing.
I am looking for a better camera than this one.  A little heavier (not too much)
coz my hands shake, something that steadies the picture, better pix & easy
to use.  Kinda.  I am tired of the camera I have.  I want to be able to take
good shots of the kids.  But I want a camera that's easy to use. " Cameras
for dummies".  Up to $300 I think.  And if settings get messed up, I want
to be able to fix them.
She's really not good with technology. She has the galaxy S3 and it confounds her often. She gets confused about how to move the pictures off the camera to her computer, my dad usually does it for her. If she's OK to $300 is the S110 a good choice for her?  Easy menu is a key feature.  I think given how old her camera is, she'd get much better pictures with any new P&S, but might as well get a good one.

Bump...any advice?
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #521 on: March 18, 2014, 12:44:48 PM »
http://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=39604.0 is this a good deal? nikon d3200 389.99

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #522 on: March 18, 2014, 06:32:35 PM »
Natural light photographer, subjects being mostly families, kids and still life (macros and food), and a tiny bit of landscape. I'm thinking of upgrading from my Canon 40d. Considering the Mark III, but I'm strongly being pulled by the Fuji X series. What would you guys recommend?
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #523 on: March 19, 2014, 10:55:42 PM »
My mom is looking for a new point and shoot. Her request:
"i have the Canon Power Shot Digital Elph SD1100 IS.  The settings are all
messed up.  I don't know how to set up anything like flash, date, change
color.  Nothing.
I am looking for a better camera than this one.  A little heavier (not too much)
coz my hands shake, something that steadies the picture, better pix & easy
to use.  Kinda.  I am tired of the camera I have.  I want to be able to take
good shots of the kids.  But I want a camera that's easy to use. " Cameras
for dummies".  Up to $300 I think.  And if settings get messed up, I want
to be able to fix them."
She's really not good with technology. She has the galaxy S3 and it confounds her often. She gets confused about how to move the pictures off the camera to her computer, my dad usually does it for her. If she's OK to $300 is the S110 a good choice for her?  Easy menu is a key feature.  I think given how old her camera is, she'd get much better pictures with any new P&S, but might as well get a good one.

So today she went to B&H and came home with a G15. After seeing this post by SF I am thinking that they mislead her and she should get the S110.  She paid 350, and they have the S110 for 250. Even with the better battery, she could just get a second battery and save herself the money. That being said, if the G15 is easier to use since it has more buttons and dials instead of having to go through menu's maybe it is worth it. Although she'd love the touch screen...

Anyone have thoughts on which would be best?
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Online Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #524 on: March 20, 2014, 12:00:44 AM »
So today she went to B&H and came home with a G15. After seeing this post by SF I am thinking that they mislead her and she should get the S110.  She paid 350, and they have the S110 for 250. Even with the better battery, she could just get a second battery and save herself the money. That being said, if the G15 is easier to use since it has more buttons and dials instead of having to go through menu's maybe it is worth it. Although she'd love the touch screen...

Anyone have thoughts on which would be best?

Usually I'd say that the S110 is a better choice, but I believe here the argument can be made that she'll be happier with the G15. It's larger and heavier, so it'll handle better. Not to mention a much better and more solid grip. There's also the viewfinder, which he might find helpful outside.

In general, I think the first thing you should teach her is how to reset the camera. That way if she messed something up she'll be able to quickly reset the entire thing to the default settings.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #525 on: March 20, 2014, 12:08:50 AM »
Natural light photographer, subjects being mostly families, kids and still life (macros and food), and a tiny bit of landscape. I'm thinking of upgrading from my Canon 40d. Considering the Mark III, but I'm strongly being pulled by the Fuji X series. What would you guys recommend?

Are you sure you need the Mk3 over say, the 6D? You could save a bundle.

Otherwise what you're having is a dilemma that's getting more and more common these days - should I give up some features and functionality for size and weight? You have to carefully determine what in a camera is an absolute need, what would be nice, and what you don't care about, and only then could you make a decision. Also make sure to actually get a Fuji in your hands - you may find you can't stand the small size, for instance.

Also note that you're limited to two macro lens choices when it comes to Fuji X (the Fuji 60 f/2.4 or the Zeiss 50 f/2.8), whereas you have 12 options for Canon full frame.   
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #526 on: March 20, 2014, 01:01:12 PM »
Are you sure you need the Mk3 over say, the 6D? You could save a bundle.

^ This. The mark3 is a great, don't get me wrong (and if you are doing video, it's one of the only Canons to be relatively free of moire and aliasing), but coming from a 40D I'd also take a hard look at the 6D. Its a really great camera for the price.
One of my wedding photographer friends told me he only picked the 5D over it because of client's name recognition. Everyone's heard of the flagship model, makes you seem more professional. But if you don't need that, heck I'm considering a 6D myself.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #527 on: March 20, 2014, 11:21:45 PM »
I advise people to never upgrade a lens unless they know what they need. The lenses that you got with the deal are good for the vast majority of situations (especially if you're a beginner). The day will come when you'll find yourself wishing that your lens did this or did that; when that happens you'll know exactly what you want in a new lens and could upgrade sensibly.

That being said, you should still have a look at the 50 f/1.8. You'll see a tremendous difference from your other lenses due to the large aperture. At a hundred bucks you can't really go wrong.
Pulling up an old reply of SF to a question of mine. Regarding the 50 f/1.8 someone wrote on Amazon that it has a very narrow field of view. What does than mean in regard to taking portraits of my kid and what's your take on that?

Is this the lens you are referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8-Camera-Lens/dp/B00007E7JU/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #528 on: March 21, 2014, 01:29:52 PM »
For someone looking to invest in a great sony DSLR, this is almost $400 off today (based on the B&H prices)

http://www.ebay.com/itm/351011000015
« Last Edit: March 21, 2014, 01:33:34 PM by RJ898 »
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #529 on: March 21, 2014, 02:08:28 PM »
Pulling up an old reply of SF to a question of mine. Regarding the 50 f/1.8 someone wrote on Amazon that it has a very narrow field of view. What does than mean in regard to taking portraits of my kid and what's your take on that?

Is this the lens you are referring to?

http://www.amazon.com/Canon-50mm-1-8-Camera-Lens/dp/B00007E7JU/ref=lh_ni_t?ie=UTF8&psc=1&smid=ATVPDKIKX0DER

Field of view refers to the amount seen through the lens (in simplistic terms). A wide-angle lens will have a wide FOV, meaning you could see a tremendous amount of what's in front of the camera. A telephoto lens on the other hand, will have a very narrow FOV - only a small amount of the scene is visible.

The 50mm is considered a 'normal' lens - neither wide nor tele. What the reviewer on Amazon was saying is that even that was too narrow - he couldn't fit everything he wanted into his shot. Oftentimes you could back up a bit to get everything in, but of course that's not always possible (i. e. indoors).

Now - if you're using a 50mm lens on an APS-C sensor camera, its FOV would be equivalent to a 75mm lens due to the 1.5x crop factor. What that means is since 75mm is in the telephoto range already (right at the low end), your FOV will get noticeably narrower. It won't be considered a 'normal' lens anymore.

One the other hand, a 50mm lens on a crop-sensor camera is an awesome, cheap portrait lens. The longer a lens is, the better it'll render portraits (scroll down a bit in this post for some more info on this). Typically a lens in the 85-135mm range is used for portraiture (although 200mm is even better, it gets a bit harder to work at those lengths). The 50, acting like a 75, will act similar to a true portrait lens. (Note that the compression ('rendering') will still be that of a 50; however the FOV and overall look will still be almost like a portrait lens.)

For a hundred bucks, I'd say it's a no brainer if you want to take portraits of your kid.

ETA: Yes, that's the lens in your link.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2014, 02:27:50 PM by Something Fishy »
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Online Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #530 on: March 21, 2014, 02:30:29 PM »
Here's my daughter this purim photographed with an 85mm lens. A 50mm on a crop sensor camera will be similar:

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #531 on: March 21, 2014, 02:59:58 PM »
Thanks for explaining the whole thing I really appreciate the detailed answers. Great Purim shot btw.

Why does the camera have a 1.5 crop factor? Wouldn't a built in feature that narrows the FOV be a bad thing for scenic wide angle shots where you don't want it zoomed? Also is APS-C the sensor name for all Canon cameras?

Thank you so much!

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #532 on: March 21, 2014, 03:10:40 PM »
Thanks for explaining the whole thing I really appreciate the detailed answers. Great Purim shot btw.

Why does the camera have a 1.5 crop factor? Wouldn't a built in feature that narrows the FOV be a bad thing for scenic wide angle shots where you don't want it zoomed? Also is APS-C the sensor name for all Canon cameras?

Thank you so much!
It's a crop compared to a full 35mm sensor. It's technically speaking a full frame ASP-C
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #533 on: March 21, 2014, 03:19:48 PM »
It's not a built-in feature; it what happens due to the sensor size. There are a few different sensor sizes used in cameras, and the lenses are marked to match up with the largest ones (called full frame). Most DSLRs however have somewhat smaller sensors than that, called APS-C. The smaller a sensor is, the longer a lens will act. Since a full frame sensor is about 1.5x the area of APS-C, a lens will act 1.5x longer on APS-C than on FF.

This post has a lot more info on the subject.

What camera do you have?
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #534 on: March 21, 2014, 03:22:45 PM »
It's not a built-in feature; it what happens due to the sensor size. There are a few different sensor sizes used in cameras, and the lenses are marked to match up with the largest ones (called full frame). Most DSLRs however have somewhat smaller sensors than that, called APS-C. The smaller a sensor is, the longer a lens will act. Since a full frame sensor is about 1.5x the area of APS-C, a lens will act 1.5x longer on APS-C than on FF.

This post has a lot more info on the subject.

What camera do you have?
Again, technically speaking 35mm full frame is also crop when compare to medium format etc.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #535 on: March 21, 2014, 03:23:20 PM »
It's a crop compared to a full 35mm sensor. It's technically speaking a full frame ASP-C

"Full frame APS-C" is like saying "he's driving a truck car". APS-C is smaller than full frame:

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #536 on: March 21, 2014, 03:27:17 PM »
Again, technically speaking 35mm full frame is also crop when compare to medium format etc.

Everything has a crop factor compared to other things. Using a medium format lens on full frame camera gives you a crop factor of 0.5, and so on. However what most people mean when they say crop factor is using 35mm lenses on APS-C or mirrorless bodies, hence 1.5x for our discussion here, 2x for M4/3, etc.
« Last Edit: March 21, 2014, 03:34:17 PM by Something Fishy »
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #537 on: March 21, 2014, 06:11:13 PM »
It's not a built-in feature; it what happens due to the sensor size. There are a few different sensor sizes used in cameras, and the lenses are marked to match up with the largest ones (called full frame). Most DSLRs however have somewhat smaller sensors than that, called APS-C. The smaller a sensor is, the longer a lens will act. Since a full frame sensor is about 1.5x the area of APS-C, a lens will act 1.5x longer on APS-C than on FF.

This post has a lot more info on the subject.

What camera do you have?
What a learning experience here! Like with most things I am sure the more I understand the better my results will be,

I have the Canon Rebel t3i.

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #538 on: March 21, 2014, 06:13:51 PM »
Everything has a crop factor compared to other things. Using a medium format lens on full frame camera gives you a crop factor of 0.5, and so on. However what most people mean when they say crop factor is using 35mm lenses on APS-C or mirrorless bodies, hence 1.5x for our discussion here, 2x for M4/3, etc.

Correct. SF, you'll have to excuse my friend RJ898's perspective on this. He, like me, is also coming from the world of cinema where "full frame" means s35 motion picture film. For those who are unaware, film used in movies get loaded sideways compared to photography film, which means that your FOV is cropped to about 1.5x what it would be in the other orientation. That makes an APS-C sized sensor "full frame" in our world (whereas a 35mm photography sized sensor would be something like VistaVision sized film).
When DSLRs started getting used for movie making, it really confused the heck out of lens selections and crop values. Those who went to film school had a hard time adjusting to the 5D for video because they are used to the framing and DOF of shots on an APS-C sized FOV- meanwhile photographers see APS-C as a crop, discussing "full frame equivalents" on cameras like the 7D when shooting video. As you can imagine, this has been the subject of many confusing conversations on internet forums!

RJ898- remember, we're talking photography here. Standard is 35mm in landscape orientation film, which everyone in that world calls "full frame". Knowing the frame of reference is key. :)
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #539 on: March 23, 2014, 03:20:09 PM »
Right... I have an information overload from the last few months :)
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