Topic Wiki

Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 379193 times)

Offline AJK

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 20K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 25419
  • Total likes: 721
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 15
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
  • Programs: United Concierge Key; Delta Global Services; American Chairman; US Airways 1K; Hilton Sapphire; Hyatt Tritium; Marriott Californium; Starwood Kryptonium; Hertz Plutonium; National Adamantium, Avis Executive Proactanium
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #560 on: April 24, 2014, 02:14:43 PM »
The a6000 is only about $100 more than the 6, so it's not a terribly significant difference.

The main differences are the focusing system (the a6000 is FAR better for moving subjects), and the megapixels (24 vs. 16).

I'd say the answer is simple - if you shoot kids or like to crop, the $100 is well spent.

The Fuji XM-1 is an absolutely lovely camera, but I haven't played around with it long enough to say whether it's better or worse than the Sonys. Certainly on paper they look similar enough. Personally when I decide to upgrade my own NEX I'll be looking very seriously at Fuji.

From Amazon, the prices look to be:

Sony Nex 6 - $687 with kit lens
Sony a6000 - $798 with kit lens
Fuji XM-1 - $699 with kit lens
Panasonic Lumix GX 7 - $1098 with kit lens

Now that I look at it, it seems the GX 7--though very highly lauded--is beyon what I'm willing to spend for my entry into the mirrorless space.

But, it's interesting that you'd want to upgrade from NEX to the Fuji XM-1 instead of the Sony a6000.

Considering your preference and the fact that it's $100 cheaper, perhaps I should just grab the Fuji?

ETA: Upon rereading, you say that you'd "be looking very seriously" at the the Fuji, not that you'd decide on it for sure, so my comment above may be somewhat inapposite.
« Last Edit: April 24, 2014, 02:19:26 PM by AJK »
2015: 116K bkd | 1.6M brnd | F: OZ,NH,AA,EK | J: UA,CA,TK,DL,TN,AF,VA | LIH,NRT,ROR,PEK,CNS,BOB,MEL,TLV & Pacific Hopper

Online Something Fishy

  • Global Moderator
  • Dansdeals Lifetime Presidential Platinum Elite
  • **********
  • Join Date: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 8711
  • Total likes: 6078
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 44
    • View Profile
    • Kosher Horizons
  • Location: Iceland
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #561 on: April 25, 2014, 12:15:40 AM »
But, it's interesting that you'd want to upgrade from NEX to the Fuji XM-1 instead of the Sony a6000.

Considering your preference and the fact that it's $100 cheaper, perhaps I should just grab the Fuji?

ETA: Upon rereading, you say that you'd "be looking very seriously" at the the Fuji, not that you'd decide on it for sure, so my comment above may be somewhat inapposite.

LOL. Read it again, and you'll note that I wrote "looking very seriously at Fuji", not "at the Fuji". Basically what I'm saying is that from the little I've played with the XM-1, the Fuji system seems to be a good contender for when I upgrade my NEX. I probably won't be going with the XM-1 because a) like you said, it's not so much of an upgrade, and b) I'm not looking to upgrade now, so there'll most likely be new Sonys and Fujis when that time comes.

And I definitely don't have a preference to Fuji yet - like I said, I've only dabbled in it.
Check out my site for epic kosher adventures: Kosher Horizons

Offline AJK

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 20K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 25419
  • Total likes: 721
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 15
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
  • Programs: United Concierge Key; Delta Global Services; American Chairman; US Airways 1K; Hilton Sapphire; Hyatt Tritium; Marriott Californium; Starwood Kryptonium; Hertz Plutonium; National Adamantium, Avis Executive Proactanium
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #562 on: April 25, 2014, 12:39:28 AM »
Got it now (I think ;))

And if you were picking one today, which would you choose? I know you have only played with the XM-1 a little, but based on specs and what you know.
2015: 116K bkd | 1.6M brnd | F: OZ,NH,AA,EK | J: UA,CA,TK,DL,TN,AF,VA | LIH,NRT,ROR,PEK,CNS,BOB,MEL,TLV & Pacific Hopper

Online Something Fishy

  • Global Moderator
  • Dansdeals Lifetime Presidential Platinum Elite
  • **********
  • Join Date: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 8711
  • Total likes: 6078
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 44
    • View Profile
    • Kosher Horizons
  • Location: Iceland
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #563 on: April 25, 2014, 12:49:47 AM »
Got it now (I think ;))

And if you were picking one today, which would you choose? I know you have only played with the XM-1 a little, but based on specs and what you know.

From the three we discussed, probably the a6000. The focusing speed makes it worth it for me over the NEX-6, while the viewfinder beats the XM-1 (which has none).
Check out my site for epic kosher adventures: Kosher Horizons

Offline askmoses

  • Dansdeals Lifetime Platinum Elite
  • *******
  • Join Date: Jun 2010
  • Posts: 1686
  • Total likes: 14
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 8
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #564 on: April 25, 2014, 08:14:54 AM »
From the three we discussed, probably the a6000. The focusing speed makes it worth it for me over the NEX-6, while the viewfinder beats the XM-1 (which has none).
A6000 VS E-M10?
I probably would only get 2-3 lenses and I'm no professional... Are basic lenses less expensive with Olympus Mirrorless systems as they don't  need to build IS lenses?

Offline jaywhy

  • Dansdeals Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Sep 2012
  • Posts: 3768
  • Total likes: 68
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 7
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #565 on: April 25, 2014, 08:24:23 AM »
From Amazon, the prices look to be:

Sony Nex 6 - $687 with kit lens
Sony a6000 - $798 with kit lens
Fuji XM-1 - $699 with kit lens
Panasonic Lumix GX 7 - $1098 with kit lens

Now that I look at it, it seems the GX 7--though very highly lauded--is beyon what I'm willing to spend for my entry into the mirrorless space.

But, it's interesting that you'd want to upgrade from NEX to the Fuji XM-1 instead of the Sony a6000.

Considering your preference and the fact that it's $100 cheaper, perhaps I should just grab the Fuji?

ETA: Upon rereading, you say that you'd "be looking very seriously" at the the Fuji, not that you'd decide on it for sure, so my comment above may be somewhat inapposite.
You can pick up a GX7 body on Amazon for $698 and a new kit lens on eBay for ~$100.

Offline AJK

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 20K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 25419
  • Total likes: 721
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 15
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
  • Programs: United Concierge Key; Delta Global Services; American Chairman; US Airways 1K; Hilton Sapphire; Hyatt Tritium; Marriott Californium; Starwood Kryptonium; Hertz Plutonium; National Adamantium, Avis Executive Proactanium
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #566 on: April 25, 2014, 12:11:04 PM »
You can pick up a GX7 body on Amazon for $698 and a new kit lens on eBay for ~$100.

Awesome. Do you mind linking to the eBay kit lens?
2015: 116K bkd | 1.6M brnd | F: OZ,NH,AA,EK | J: UA,CA,TK,DL,TN,AF,VA | LIH,NRT,ROR,PEK,CNS,BOB,MEL,TLV & Pacific Hopper

Offline jaywhy

  • Dansdeals Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Sep 2012
  • Posts: 3768
  • Total likes: 68
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 7
    • View Profile

Offline AJK

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 20K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 25419
  • Total likes: 721
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 15
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
  • Programs: United Concierge Key; Delta Global Services; American Chairman; US Airways 1K; Hilton Sapphire; Hyatt Tritium; Marriott Californium; Starwood Kryptonium; Hertz Plutonium; National Adamantium, Avis Executive Proactanium
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #568 on: April 25, 2014, 12:21:19 PM »
http://www.ebay.com/itm/NEW-PANASONIC-LUMIX-G-VARIO-14-42mm-F3-5-5-6-ASPH-MEGA-O-I-S-LENS-G3-GF3-GF5-/151281808614?pt=Camera_Lenses&hash=item23391934e6

IMHO, I'd spend more money and get a better lens.

That seems to be much larger than the kit lens that comes with the NEX line.

Seems it'd lose some of it's pocketability... no?
2015: 116K bkd | 1.6M brnd | F: OZ,NH,AA,EK | J: UA,CA,TK,DL,TN,AF,VA | LIH,NRT,ROR,PEK,CNS,BOB,MEL,TLV & Pacific Hopper

Online Something Fishy

  • Global Moderator
  • Dansdeals Lifetime Presidential Platinum Elite
  • **********
  • Join Date: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 8711
  • Total likes: 6078
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 44
    • View Profile
    • Kosher Horizons
  • Location: Iceland
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #569 on: April 25, 2014, 12:22:57 PM »
That seems to be much larger than the kit lens that comes with the NEX line.

Seems it'd lose some of it's pocketability... no?

Correct. The Sony 16-50 collapses.
Check out my site for epic kosher adventures: Kosher Horizons

Offline sky121

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 10K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • *******
  • Join Date: May 2011
  • Posts: 11513
  • Total likes: 168
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 12
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #570 on: April 25, 2014, 02:32:38 PM »
I actually prefer the bigger lens. That's just me though.
"Not all who wander are lost"

Offline AJK

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 20K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: Jun 2011
  • Posts: 25419
  • Total likes: 721
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 15
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
  • Programs: United Concierge Key; Delta Global Services; American Chairman; US Airways 1K; Hilton Sapphire; Hyatt Tritium; Marriott Californium; Starwood Kryptonium; Hertz Plutonium; National Adamantium, Avis Executive Proactanium
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #571 on: April 25, 2014, 02:33:26 PM »
I actually prefer the bigger lens. That's just me though.

Why?
2015: 116K bkd | 1.6M brnd | F: OZ,NH,AA,EK | J: UA,CA,TK,DL,TN,AF,VA | LIH,NRT,ROR,PEK,CNS,BOB,MEL,TLV & Pacific Hopper

Offline sky121

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 10K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • *******
  • Join Date: May 2011
  • Posts: 11513
  • Total likes: 168
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 12
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #572 on: April 25, 2014, 02:34:45 PM »
I like the feeling in the hands better. Personal preference but I like being able to hold the camera by the lens. Don't feel like I have a good grip with the collapsible ones.
"Not all who wander are lost"

Offline sky121

  • Dansdeals Lifetime 10K Presidential Platinum Elite
  • *******
  • Join Date: May 2011
  • Posts: 11513
  • Total likes: 168
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 12
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #573 on: April 25, 2014, 02:35:39 PM »
I actually bought a 5t, gave away my 5n but swapped the kit lenses so I'd have the older version.
"Not all who wander are lost"

Online Something Fishy

  • Global Moderator
  • Dansdeals Lifetime Presidential Platinum Elite
  • **********
  • Join Date: Jan 2011
  • Posts: 8711
  • Total likes: 6078
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 44
    • View Profile
    • Kosher Horizons
  • Location: Iceland
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #574 on: April 25, 2014, 02:56:55 PM »
I actually prefer the bigger lens. That's just me though.

+1

There are also some issues with the 16-50 that you have to keep in mind - the quality isn't as good as the 18-55, and there is lots of distortion on the 16mm end. Also, since it's a power lens, every time you turn on or wake up the camera the lens has to extend; this means that for about 2 seconds the camera is inoperable, making you potentially miss the shot.

The 18-55 on the other hand, being mechanical, has no startup issues. From when I wake up my camera (I always keep it on, so a tap on the shutter is all I need for it to get going), till I could take a picture is about a quarter of a second, if that. It's also sharper and has no distortion. Also, since it's mechanical, I could zoom much faster just by giving the lens a twist.
Check out my site for epic kosher adventures: Kosher Horizons

Offline whYME

  • Dansdeals Presidential Platinum Elite
  • ********
  • Join Date: May 2008
  • Posts: 3213
  • Total likes: 1241
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 3
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #575 on: April 25, 2014, 04:45:55 PM »
I'm considering upgrading my kit lens (t3i, 18-55mm), I feel like I need something better for everyday use.

Ideally I'd like something both faster and longer -without having to give anything up on the short end.

The closest to what I'm looking for seems to be the Sigma 17-70mm f/2.8-4 DC Macro OS HSM
1. Does the "macro" designation mean it won't be as good at "regular" photography?
2. How does the quality of this stack up to the others?

Other than that, the f/2.8 options seem to be either in the 17-50mm or 28-70 range. Given the choice of those two, I think the shorter ones would be better. (isn't it better to at least have the option of cropping a picture vs. being SOL when the subject is too close?)

Do you think I'm on the right track here looking at the f/2.8's?
Any recommendations?


It looks like even buying used this'll likely cost more than my camera and existing lenses combined.  :-\

Offline askmoses

  • Dansdeals Lifetime Platinum Elite
  • *******
  • Join Date: Jun 2010
  • Posts: 1686
  • Total likes: 14
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 8
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #576 on: April 27, 2014, 09:22:00 AM »
Olympus E-M10 sounds like the camera for you. Small, fast, tough, prosumer, in body IS, EVF, a million different lenses available.

Also consider the NEX-6.
Got to check out a NEX 5 yesterday. Nifty little camera... I was pretty impressed.
However, after doing some more research, the E-M10 definitely seems like the front runner for me right now. It's a really compact package but reviews indicate it's built really well.
Monday morning B&H DO anyone:)? I've got to see these in person...

Offline RJ898

  • Dansdeals Platinum Elite + Lifetime Silver Elite
  • *****
  • Join Date: May 2011
  • Posts: 668
  • Total likes: 7
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 0
  • Gender: Male
    • View Profile
  • Location: Asleep at my desk.
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #577 on: April 29, 2014, 11:54:01 AM »
Part of the vast right wing conspiracy.

Offline ari9

  • Dansdeals Platinum Elite
  • ****
  • Join Date: Jun 2012
  • Posts: 368
  • Total likes: 6
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 0
    • View Profile

Offline askmoses

  • Dansdeals Lifetime Platinum Elite
  • *******
  • Join Date: Jun 2010
  • Posts: 1686
  • Total likes: 14
  • DansDeals.com Hat Tips 8
    • View Profile
Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #579 on: April 29, 2014, 01:06:25 PM »
Great sale today on the NEX6 from B&H and Amazon
http://www.bhphotovideo.com/bnh/controller/home?O=productlist&sku=892146&is=REG&ap=y&Q=&A=details
In B&H yesterday they told me the new A6000 was coming in today. This is probably the reason for the price drop.

What do you think of this deal? Olympus E-PM2 (white) w/ 14-42 lens for only $250? Amazon prices it at $312. I don't think I'd buy it but I think it's a good deal for someone looking to take the next step from P&S.
http://www.neweggflash.com/product/30-111-548

After my experience w/ my Canon 60d I realize I don't really need Prosumer as I really am very much a beginner and this is simply a hobby. However I think I need better then the E-PM2.

The a6000 is only about $100 more than the 6, so it's not a terribly significant difference.

The main differences are the focusing system (the a6000 is FAR better for moving subjects), and the megapixels (24 vs. 16).

I'd say the answer is simple - if you shoot kids or like to crop, the $100 is well spent.
Now that it is priced at just $550 w/ kit, how do you feel about it now?
I did check out the oe-m10 yesterday in B&H... it's a beautiful camera. I do like that it has a touch screen to be able to direct the camera on where to focus when you are using the lcd and not the evf.
 However costs to matter. I would probably never advance beyond 2-3 simple lenses. Will going with the cheaper NEX6 and then having to buy an additional 2 lenses not wind up being the smart choice financially? Or am I better spending $800 on the oe-m10 for what MIGHT be lenses priced more affordably. I'm not familiar enough with the mirrorless world to know about lens prices yet, so I seek the mumchim's advice (greatly appreciated as always of course).
« Last Edit: April 29, 2014, 02:20:27 PM by askmoses »