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Copied From the Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 1


Choosing a camera: Point and Shoot vs. Mirrorless vs. DSLR


Before you even start thinking which camera model to buy, you have to decide something much more important: the type of camera. There are three main types of cameras on the market today, and they each offer some things the others don't. Let's take a quick at them and see what the differences are and why you might choose one over the other.


Point & Shoots (P&S): These are by far the most popular cameras out there. Usually extremely compact, they're all easy to use, relatively cheap, and deliver great images. The point & shoot ranges from tiny shirt-pocket cameras such as the Canon Elph series, to large superzooms (sometimes called all-in-ones or bridge cameras) such as the Panasonic FZ series, to 'advanced' P&Ss like the Canon G series or the $2800(!) Sony RX-1. All P&Ss have fixed (non-removable) lenses.


Point & Shoot pros:
--- Amazing selection: At the time of this writing, B&H has 328 cameras in stock listed under Point & Shoot. A basic Canon Elph-style camera usually has a 3-8x zoom lens, a 3" screen, 1080p video, image stabilization, and a million other features. Should you could choose a superzoom, you'd get a 24-50x zoom, manual controls, a viewfinder, and (usually) a hotshoe for flashes. Advanced P&Ss will give you even more control, better, larger sensors, and higher quality lenses. Want a camera your baby could drop into a bowl of cereal? There are currently 18 different shock and waterproof cameras [url=http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?ipp=100&Ns=p_PRODUCT_SHORT_DESCR|0&ci=8612&N=4288586279+35+4052359761&srtclk=sort]available
. Want a screen that swivels? Built-in GPS? WiFi? Check, check, and check. One screen not enough, you want two of 'em? Check!
--- Cheap: Even a $100 P&S will give you better pictures than a $500 camera from 5 years ago. You do not need to spend a fortune to get amazing pictures.
--- Light and easy to carry: No excuses for not shlepping the camera. If fits into your shirt pocket, a purse, just about anywhere.
--- Great video: Most current cameras are capable of recording 1080p HD video, or at least 720p. Combined with ubiquitous image stabilization P&Ss are capable of outputting awesome video.
--- Easy to use: Most P&S will only have an Auto or P mode, although some advanced or superzoom models will have full manual control. In Auto mode all you have to do is press the button. Some cameras even have an 'intelligent' auto feature where it could detect if you're shooting a flower, a portrait, etc. and adjust itself accordingly. This actually works pretty well on most cameras. In P mode you get a bit more control (you could turn the flash off, adjust the picture brighter or darker, etc.), but the camera still handles most of the decisions making for you.


Point & Shoot Cons:
--- Image quality relative to mirrorless and DSLRs: Yes, P&Ss will give you great picture quality - when situations are ideal. But if you plan to be shooting a lot in darker situations (indoors, your kids' school play) you will notice a considerable difference in quality compared to the other two. Sharpness will also not be as good as the others - the combination of a small physical lens, a small sensor, and over-zealous noise reduction (more on all of these later) is not a recipe for razor-sharp photos. These factors will be much less of an issue with advanced cameras such as the Canon G15, although a mirrorless or DSLR will still be far better.
--- Hard or impossible to achieve certain effects: You know that portrait look where the entire background is just blurred into creamy nothingness? That's one of the hardest things to create with a P&S (and conversely one of the easiest things to do with an SLR/mirrorless). Later on I'll show you some techniques to force this effect out of a P&S (to a degree), but the physics are simply not in your favor.
--- Speed: Compared to a DSLR, the P&S is practically a turtle. It takes a few seconds to turn on, zooming takes time, every setting change takes time. Most importantly though, is the speed at which the camera takes the picture. While a DSLR focuses almost instantly, a P&S could take a second or two. Once the image is in focus, there is a maddening delay called shutter lag, which is the time between you pressing the shutter button and the camera actually taking the picture. Between focusing and shutter lag, it could sometimes take 3 or more seconds to get your shoot, at which point the moment may be long gone. Later on we'll discuss some techniques for speeding this process up, but it'll still take far longer than a DSLR.
--- Not much control: The flip side to the P&S's ease of use it its lack of control. Want to lower your flash power so that people don't have that 'deer in headlights' look? Tough noogies. Want to change your aperture? Your shutter speed? Ain't happenin'. Of course some cameras do let you change all that, but a) they're in the minority by far, and b) since these are secondary features, you'll probably have to dig through 6 menu pages every time you want to make a change.
--- Limited expandability: A P&S is a closed system. Want a longer or wider lens? Want to use filters? No dice on most cameras. This is also a big issue if you ever want to dabble in lighting - it'll be quite difficult with a P&S.
____________


DSLRs: The big, black, "professional" looking cameras. Big, heavy, and (relatively) expensive, these have interchangeable lenses and optical viewfinders. The big players are Canon and Nikon, with Sony and Pentax having a small but dedicated market share. A typical 'starter' DSLR will have a 18 (Canon) or 24 (Nikon) megapixel sensor, come with an 18-55mm lens, and have actual buttons for only the most important tasks. As you move up through the lineup, you'll get more direct buttons and knobs, status LCDs, better focusing/metering systems, more lens support, metal or magnesium bodies, weather sealing, wireless flash control, higher frame-per-second rates, and more. You also get better kit lenses (that's the lens that comes with the camera) as you move up, and at a certain level (usually the third camera in the lineup) you'll also be able to buy the camera body by itself without any lens.


DSLR pros:
--- Image quality: This is the number one benefit of the DSLR - even the cheapest camera and lens combination will give you better pictures that any point and shoot, even if the P&S costs much more. (B&H currently lists 3 DSLR kits (camera and lens) for $450 - that's cheaper than some P&Ss.) Looking at pictures of a P&S and a DSLR side by side, you'll be blown away by the difference in sharpness, color, and dynamic range (explained later) of the DSLR. When it comes to low light, there's no contest; the DSLR wins hand down.
--- Control: In a DLSR you have control over every single shooting parameter. There are no limits to what you could create; everything's at your beck and call. Flash power, exposure, color, and most importantly, RAW shooting. (I'll get into far more detail on that last thing later.)
--- Special effects: Out of focus backgrounds? Easy peasy. Long exposures? Timelapse? You bet.
--- System expandability: DSLRs are sometimes called 'system cameras'. This is due to the fact that unlike P&Ss, a DSLR is not just a camera; it's at the heart of an entire system. Each brand has dozens of lenses available, plus many more from third-party lens manufacturers. You could get flashes, transmitters, remotes, and many other goodies and they will all work seamlessly and communicate properly to one another. BTW, this is why you should choose your first SLR very carefully: you're probably buying into a system. First you get a camera and lens, then another lens, then maybe another lens or a flash, and then the a new camera comes out so you buy that. It's quite the pain to switch to a different brand once you're bought in to the system.
--- Viewfinder: By definition, a DSLR is a single lens reflex camera; what that means is that inside the camera just behind the lens mount there's a mirror, which projects the image from the lens into a prism, which in turn shows up in the viewfinder. The big advantage of this is that when you look through the viewfinder you're actually looking through lens, and as such are seeing exactly what the lens sees. This gives you an extremely accurate and life-like view, which makes it easy to compose your shots properly. A viewfinder also lets you use the camera in bright light without worrying about not being able to see the screen.
--- Speed: A DSLR is ready to shoot almost instantly after being turned on. No matter where you are, be it a menu or playing back you pictures, a slight tap of the shutter button and the camera is instantly ready to shoot. Focus is nearly instantaneous, and shutter lag is pretty much a non-issue. Another speed aspect is continuous shooting - holding down the shutter button while the camera rattles off picture after picture. An entry-level camera  could easily do around 4.5fps (frames per second), while higher level cameras could do 7 or 8 (or 12, if you count the $6800 Canon 1D X).


DSLR cons:
--- Size and weight: There's no getting around it: DSLRs are big and bulky, especially if you're carrying more than one lens.
--- Price: DSLRs start at about $450, and go way up. One of the most common cameras, the Canon T4i, will set you back about a grand. And then you want to buy another lens. And another one. And another one... :D
--- Video: DSLR video is a really weird situation. On the one hand the quality is INSANE. Just look on Vimeo and see what people have been doing with the Canon 5DMk2 and Mk3 and you'll see what I mean. On the other hand, if you look at the behind the scenes video of one of those, you'll see that the camera is mounted on a rig costing $10K or more. The rig stabilizes the camera and provides support for the focus controls, the zoom controls, the sound system, and many other things. Why is all this necessary? Very simple - because the camera does a horrible job at all this if left to it's own devices. Focusing during video is horrible, especially if anything's moving through the scene. What this means is that if you're buying an SLR and are planning on taking videos of your kids running around in the park, you will be sorely disappointed - nothing will be in focus half the time, and when the camera finally does achieve focus, the built-in mike will have picked up every grind and whirr of the lens as it moved back and forth. Canon has made some progress on eliminating these issues with their new STM lenses, but for now that's only two cameras and two lenses, and even that isn't perfect.


__________


Mirrorless: Known by many different names (ILCs and EVILs for example), the industry has seemed to settle on Mirrorless lately. This was the brainchild of a joint venture between Olympus and Panasonic, and was aimed on creating an interchangeable-lens camera in with a P&S body and DSLR-like image quality, and has been wildly successful. Olympus and Panasonic are still the major players with their Micro 4/3s system, followed by Sony with their NEX line. Many others have tried to take over market share from the big 3, but have been largely unsuccessful mainly due to inferior products. Nikon 1, Canon, M, and Samsung NX are examples of fairly unpopular systems.


Most mirrorless cameras have a P&S form-factor, albeit somewhat larger. With the exception of Olympus and Panasonic, the lenses are not interchangeable between brands, but adapters are available to convert practically any DSLR (or old rangefinder camera) lens to just about every system. Most adapters will not autofocus the lens, so it's not exactly a perfect solution.


Mirrorless pros:
--- Size and weight: This is the main draw for most people. While not exactly pocket sized once a lens is in place, it it still a fairly compact kit and could be carried in a purse with ease. It's more like a large P&S than a small DSLR.
--- Price: Generally cheaper than a DSLR of a similar level. The Panasonics and Olympus (Olympusus? Olympi? ??? ) especially seem to be on sale more often than not.
--- Image quality: About as good as an SLR, simple as that.
--- Expandability: Like DSLRs, these cameras are part of a system. In the last couple of months more and more third parties have started to make lenses too. Micro 4/3s is a much more robust system then Sony NEX though, with many more lenses available.
--- Video: Video on mirrorless cameras is insanely fantastic. Similar in quality to an SLR, but with the ease of use of a P&S. It focuses quickly, perfectly, and fairly quietly.


Mirrorless cons:
--- Lenses: Far smaller selection than SLRs, although to be fair most important lenses are covered.
--- Image quality: A DSLR will still have slightly better image quality, especially in low light scenarios.
--- Viewfinders: Most don’t have viewfinders at all, which make it harder to use in low light. Some of those have axillary finders you could out in the hotshoe (usually at exorbitant prices or some reason), but these are just to give you a general idea of what the camera is seeing.
--- Batteries: Uses batteries like a P&S (200-400 shots), while a DSLR usually gets around 2000 shots per battery.
--- Speed: Focusing, while worlds better than P&Ss, isn't quite up to DSLR standards yet, but that's getting better every day.
--- Control: While mirrorless camera offer the same level of control as DSLRs, very often you'll have to dig through menus to get to where you want to. The main point of mirrorless being cutting down on size, buttons and knobs were eliminated without mercy.


___________


Lesson Summary:
--- Point & Shoots are great for most everyday shooting. Cheap, more options than you could ever want, great image quality and video. Quite difficult (but definitely possible - I'll show you how) to get the 'pro' look.
--- DSLR are king when it comes to image quality, control, and expandability. For the best pictures in any situation, go for a DSLR. Video, not so much.
--- Mirrorless cameras are the best of both worlds, with some caveats. Amazing image quality, the best video, and fairly small and portable. Less control and versatility than an SLR, though.

___________


For the full lesson series visit the Learn Photography Master Thread.

____________________________________________________

Links to additional Info:

Learn Photography Master Thread: Lesson 2: Camera specs - What do they mean, and which ones matter to me?

Canon's DSLR naming scheme
Nikon's DSLR naming scheme
« Last edited by Curlyhead on August 10, 2016, 11:42:18 AM »

Author Topic: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread  (Read 378836 times)

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #640 on: May 07, 2014, 09:22:29 PM »
From what I can read the only thing it lacks that I would want is a level.

Get this or this and call it a day.

Did you use ever use it with the center column extended?

You should always try to avoid that, no matter the tripod.
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Offline whYME

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #641 on: May 07, 2014, 09:25:42 PM »
Get this or this and call it a day.
I think I asked you this at one of the photoDOs, but I can't remember the answer. What's the need for a level? the point is for the picture to look right, not be perfectly horizontal/vertical?

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #642 on: May 07, 2014, 10:10:30 PM »
I think I asked you this at one of the photoDOs, but I can't remember the answer. What's the need for a level? the point is for the picture to look right, not be perfectly horizontal/vertical?

True, but when you want it level (which is most of the time) you want it level.
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Offline whYME

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #643 on: May 07, 2014, 10:30:53 PM »
True, but when you want it level (which is most of the time) you want it level.
Do you regularly use a level?

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #644 on: May 07, 2014, 10:33:15 PM »
Do you regularly use a level?

Yes. I like my landscapes straight. 8)
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #645 on: May 07, 2014, 11:25:19 PM »
Yes. I like my landscapes straight. 8)
gotcha :)

Anywho, on to more important things:

I've been considering perhaps "trading in" my SLR for a mirrorless. My main concern is the size of my bag. Right now it's not a problem, but I'm worried that as my kit grows it'll get to be too much. I can't see myself shlepping a bag like yours around.
I like the size of my current bag, I don't think I can deal with something much bigger than that.
Right now I still have room for upgrading my kit lens + a few little accesories (e.g. remote) after that I think I'll be maxed out.

My biggest question now (besides the $$) is will I have the same potential for growth with a mirrorless (let's say NEX) as with the Canon EOS ecosystem?
(one example: is there an NEX equivalent to the f/2.8 17-55's for SLR's? I'm not really seeing anything. Although I am seeing a $1000 12-40mm for micro 4/3...)

I doubt I would actually go through with this, I think at the end of the day the SLR pros will outweigh the size issue, but I still would like to know what my options are...

Offline Fan of Dan

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #646 on: May 07, 2014, 11:49:47 PM »
Get this or this and call it a day.

You should always try to avoid that, no matter the tripod.
Thanks for the links for a level, so cool how that goes on the camera itself. Regarding the height w/o center column it goes to 46 inches which means I need to bend down a bit but not to bad as I am only 5 ft. 8.

Can I assume you like the Costco tripod for the casual hobbyist?


Offline zale

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #647 on: May 08, 2014, 10:03:05 AM »
The a6000 is only about $100 more than the 6, so it's not a terribly significant difference.

The main differences are the focusing system (the a6000 is FAR better for moving subjects), and the megapixels (24 vs. 16).

I'd say the answer is simple - if you shoot kids or like to crop, the $100 is well spent.


SF, now that the difference between the two is more like $300, do you still recommend opting for the a6000? Moving/motion shots was one of the things I was looking for. Will the NEX6 blur movement in low light?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #648 on: May 08, 2014, 11:32:14 AM »
Has anyone noticed that the NEX6 has a short battery life? Or is that just because it's new and I don't stop playing with it? :)
Planning to buy a spare battery anyways but I'm wondering if there are some important power saving tips I don't know about...?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #649 on: May 08, 2014, 11:37:06 AM »
Has anyone noticed that the NEX6 has a short battery life? Or is that just because it's new and I don't stop playing with it? :)
Planning to buy a spare battery anyways but I'm wondering if there are some important power saving tips I don't know about...?
Turning off the touch screen might help? I don't really use it myself.
"Not all who wander are lost"

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #650 on: May 08, 2014, 11:47:42 AM »

Turning off the touch screen might help? I don't really use it myself.
???
IINM the 6 doesn't have a touch screen

Offline askmoses

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #651 on: May 08, 2014, 11:48:10 AM »
Turning off the touch screen might help? I don't really use it myself.
I don't think the Nex 6 has a TS.

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #652 on: May 08, 2014, 11:36:25 PM »
gotcha :)

Anywho, on to more important things:

I've been considering perhaps "trading in" my SLR for a mirrorless. My main concern is the size of my bag. Right now it's not a problem, but I'm worried that as my kit grows it'll get to be too much. I can't see myself shlepping a bag like yours around. Why not? You could put a couple of kids in there too. It's quite practical :D
I like the size of my current bag, I don't think I can deal with something much bigger than that.
Right now I still have room for upgrading my kit lens + a few little accesories (e.g. remote) after that I think I'll be maxed out.

My biggest question now (besides the $$) is will I have the same potential for growth with a mirrorless yes (let's say NEX not quite ) as with the Canon EOS ecosystem?
(one example: is there an NEX equivalent to the f/2.8 17-55's for SLR's? I'm not really seeing anything This one is probably the closest. Although I am seeing a $1000 12-40mm for micro 4/3...) There's also this beauty.

I doubt I would actually go through with this, I think at the end of the day the SLR pros will outweigh the size issue, but I still would like to know what my options are...

See in red above.

If you want to get serious M4/3 or Fuji is your best bet. They are the only ones with a full lineup of pro-level lenses.
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #653 on: May 08, 2014, 11:37:21 PM »
Can I assume you like the Costco tripod for the casual hobbyist?

Yes, it's quite nice for the price.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #654 on: May 08, 2014, 11:39:08 PM »
SF, now that the difference between the two is more like $300, do you still recommend opting for the a6000?

I personally don't think the difference is worth $300.

Moving/motion shots was one of the things I was looking for.

Both will do a great job.

Will the NEX6 blur movement in low light?

Nope.
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Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #655 on: May 08, 2014, 11:42:37 PM »
Has anyone noticed that the NEX6 has a short battery life? Or is that just because it's new and I don't stop playing with it? :)
Planning to buy a spare battery anyways but I'm wondering if there are some important power saving tips I don't know about...?

One of the main downsides to ML is the battery life, which is generally only 10-20% that of a DSLR. Simple ways to save power is to have the LCD turn off quickly, lower the brightness if possible, avoid using the flash, don't browse the images too much, etc. Typical stuff.

And a second battery is crucial too.
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Offline Fan of Dan

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #656 on: May 09, 2014, 12:36:30 AM »
Yes, it's quite nice for the price.
Thanks for the vote of confidence, it's on it's way.

My current camera kit thanks to all your suggestions is my Rebel t3i, 18-55mm kit lens 75-300mm, 50mm f1.8 (which I am having a blast with), Costco tripod, Tiffen CPL, remote and diffuser.

I am pretty much done for now, only thing I am thinking of getting is a ND filter (maybe a grad ND too) and the Canon 430 EX II flash. Without having much knowledge about flash will I be able to take advantage of the speedlight? On Amazon everyone writes about it being a complete game changer (like they never take it off etc.) Is that really the case?

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #657 on: May 09, 2014, 12:54:38 AM »
Thanks for the vote of confidence, it's on it's way.

My current camera kit thanks to all your suggestions is my Rebel t3i, 18-55mm kit lens 75-300mm, 50mm f1.8 (which I am having a blast with), Costco tripod, Tiffen CPL, remote and diffuser.

I am pretty much done for now, only thing I am thinking of getting is a ND filter (maybe a grad ND too) and the Canon 430 EX II flash. Without having much knowledge about flash will I be able to take advantage of the speedlight? On Amazon everyone writes about it being a complete game changer (like they never take it off etc.) Is that really the case?

Ha. If keeping a flash on the camera is a game changer, I wonder what they would call it when they figure out how to use off-camera flash. On the camera all it does is blast flat and unflattering light right at your subject. Take it off-camera, and you'll learn how to sculpt light, how to create feeling and mood...

But back to earth ;) - these days there's no real reason to shell out $$$ for the Canon. Get a Yongnuo or similar on Ebay and you'll get much more flash for your buck. A Yongnuo YN-560EX for instance is $94 and better than the Canon in many ways.
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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #658 on: May 09, 2014, 01:05:32 AM »
See in red above.

If you want to get serious M4/3 or Fuji is your best bet. They are the only ones with a full lineup of pro-level lenses.
Thanks!

Which M4/3 would you suggest that'll be at least as good as my t3i?

Although it probably makes sense in theory, I really can't see myself switching at this point. I can't imagine I'll be able to afford it.
It looks like I'll be able to upgrade my kit lens, get a decent small camera AND get a GoPro just for the amount it'll cost me to upgrade the basic lens on an M4/3...

On that note,
I think I'd be much better off spending ~$200 on an s110 (or is there a better option in that price range?) and then I'll still have money for a GoPro, which has also been on my wishlist for a while.
What do you think of me getting the s110 as my backup? Is that my best option in that price range? Is there something a  little more expensive that I'd be much better off getting?

Offline Something Fishy

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Re: Which Camera Should I Get? Master Thread
« Reply #659 on: May 09, 2014, 01:08:38 AM »
Which M4/3 would you suggest that'll be at least as good as my t3i?

I have to brush up on the latest M4/3 models, so I'm not gonna answer that now...

On that note,What do you think of me getting the s110 as my backup? Is that my best option in that price range? Is there something a  little more expensive that I'd be much better off getting?

The S110 is great, but if I were you I'd wait a couple of weeks and hope for another sub-$300 mirrorless deal.
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