Topic Wiki

Rome Overview
Rome is a classic European city with several famous sites to visit and plenty of history to explore, while fortunately also having a nice Jewish/Kosher representation to cover your food and Davening needs.

Trip Reports:
yitzy93,
Mtl18, jj1000, Cbs, Eli, steve L, jmansour, Mtl18, Yehoshua, Chapshnell, Mech, @Yehuda, Feivish, yg99, Dan, dvol, Mount Scopus, Mootkim
CGR

Getting there and getting around:

How long should I go for?
There are 3 main activities in Rome, so having a full 2 days is the minimum for a trip. Some will say that you want more time so you can explore some more of the city or perhaps visit the Tivoli gardens outside of Rome (see "Attractions" below), while others will say 2 days is perfect, and you'll be bored with anything longer. Shabbos can definitely be done in Rome since there are Minyanim and food options, but once you're in Italy, Venice is really the perfect place for Shabbos.

Travelling around Italy/Getting to Rome
Most often, if you're making a trip from USA to Rome, you're not just going to see Rome, but rather a few cities in Italy. When visiting Italy there are a few ways to travel around - trains, rent a car, or if you're going directly from one end of Italy (let's say Rome) to the other end (let's say Milan or Venice), it could be you'll want to fly.

Air:
If Rome is your first stop in Italy, then you'll likely be coming via air. FCO is the airport code. Because people arrive at FCO from many different locations, it's not practical to discuss the different routes you can take to get here. There are a few ways to get from the airport to the city center - shuttle, taxi, train, or bus. When you get out of baggage claim, you will be harassed by drivers offering to shuttle you (in a van, mini-van, or even just a taxi) along with other passengers to the city center for around 20-30 euro per person. It's not a terrible idea, and will be cheaper than a cab unless you can fill a cab's capacity with your family. A cab should cost approximately 50 euro. Leonardo Express trains to the city cost 14 euro each way, run every 30 minutes to Termini train station, and take 30 minutes for the trip. There are a couple of bus companies that offer bus service to Termini for 5-7 euro. You can buy tickets in the airport arrival hall on the right side when leaving customs. The bus can hit traffic, so the train is better bet for a more efficient ride.

Train:
If your Italy trip starts in a different city in Italy, then you may want to look into travelling via rail. There are 2 main train companies in Italy - TrenItalia and Treno Italo. Rates vary on a bunch of factors and neither site is fantastically designed, so check them out and ask for some help here if you need. Termini Train Station is the main station in Rome and is in the heart of the city.

Car Rental:
If your Italy trip starts in a different city in Italy, then besides for taking trains, you may find that a car rental suits your needs better, especially if you plan on hitting up several cities along the way as taking a train usually means having to get a cab or bus to/from each train station from your hotel. That time/cost plus the cost of the trains may cause you to decide on a car rental instead. Since it's Europe, expect a manual car unless you pay more for an automatic. Driving in Italy may bother you if you're not super comfortable driving, but that's really just in regards to the city driving; the highways are just like highway driving back home. Drop off your car at a location in town (as opposed to the airport), will get you to the city center, although will require some street driving, which can be a bit confusing/hectic/etc. if you don't love driving.

Getting around Rome
The main attractions in Rome are all within a 20-40 minute walk of each other, so walking is definitely an option if you're staying in the city center. There are also buses and a metro that you may want to take. The metro is pretty bad in Rome, with very few stops (there happens to be one at the Colosseum, but nothing within a 15 minute walk to the Jewish Ghetto), which makes it not so useful. So, if you're up for walking, it can definitely be done, otherwise a cab or bus would probably be your next best bet. When taking a taxi, it is advisable to catch one from a taxi stand and go by the meter. Non-official taxis are known to rip you off.


Where to stay:

The common points hotels are located pretty close to each other in the center of town near the Spanish Steps. That area is a 30 minute walk to the Jewish Ghetto.

Here are some places that are discussed in this thread:

NameAreaMore InfoComments
____________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
St. Regis RomeSpanish StepsWebsiteSPG Cat. 6 - 20K/25K, C+P 10K+$180
Westin ExcelsiorSpanish StepsWebsiteSPG Cat. 6 - 20K/25K, C+P 10K+$180
Intercontinental De La Villa RomaSpanish StepsWebsiteIHG Cat. 9 - 50K
Sheraton RomaBetween FCO and Rome properWebsiteSPG Cat. 2 - 3K, C+P 2K+$35 | For someone stingy on points, this hotel might work well. It has a paid shuttle to the airport, as well as a paid shuttle to the city center. It is far from the sites of Rome, so cabs will be expensive. A 15 minute walk to the nearest metro can get you to town, but as said above, the metro isn't great in Rome.
Sheraton Golf Parco de MediciNear FCOWebsiteSPG Cat. 3 - 7K, C+P 3.5K+$55 | Nice option if you just need to be near the airport for the night as there is an airport shuttle, although it's not complimentary.


What to do:

Attractions & Activities
Tours are very popular in Rome, particularly using one of the Jewish companies - Rome for Jews or Jewish Roma, which are described in more detail below. Whichever company you choose, the guide you get can make or break it. It takes persistence to find out who will be guiding a tour on a specific day, but here are guides that people specifically liked:

Rome for Jews
Jewish Ghetto - David (Dan)
Vatican - David (Dan)

Jewish Roma
Jewish Ghetto - Sara (@Yehuda), Yael (ckmk47)

NameMore InfoComments
___________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Tour of Jewish GhettoRFJ, JRThe Ghetto will be the center of your trip (because of food/Minyan and because of its actual location), so you'll get to know it well just by visiting. However, almost everyone who has taken a tour of the Ghetto has said it was the highlight of their trip. There are 2 main tour guides for the Ghetto (they also offer tours of other sites in Rome), Rome For Jews and Jewish Roma. The reviews - DDF and elsewhere - of both are outstanding. Everyone who has taken either tour has raved about it. No one on DDF has taken both, though, so there are no reports comparing the two (although you will find much discussion and debate as to which one is better that ends with neither program on top). The tour will bring you back in history and really help you understand how this small street is not just a street with restaurants, but once was closed in and housed thousands of Jews. The unbelievably gorgeous Great Synagogue of Rome is the center of the Ghetto - it can only be entered during Minyanim or with a tour guide. The museum/archive in the basement can be entered by anyone during hours, but the tours will take you there (and the entrance fee won't be included in your tour cost). The main issue with the tours is that they are extremely expensive, running about 100 euro per person (both are similarly priced and are usually in small groups). However, Jewish Roma does offer a student rate of 50 euro if others - paying full price ;) - have already started a tour for your day. The money is well worth it, but for those trying to save money, there is a free Rick Steves' audio tour of the Ghetto that people have said is good.
Colosseum,              Roman ForumsWebsiteThis area is known as Old Rome. Viewing these sites can be done on your own or with a tour. The same ticket grants entrance to both sites. You can walk into the Colosseum, and with a general knowledge of what went on there, get a good feel for the place. However, a tour could be nice. Several DDFers have taken tours with companies like City Wonders, but have felt that the guides were boring and the tours too long and not too good. The free Rick Steves' audio tour is very good and might be your best bet. However, the biggest concern at the Colosseum is the line to get in, which can be 1-2 hours long, but tour groups get to skip the line, which is the biggest upside to taking a tour. Another way to skip the line is by purchasing tickets in advance  and getting on the normally short line for renting an audio guide. By renting the audio guide, you are able to skip the entrance line. Once inside, they say it's better to use Rick Steves rather than the Colosseum's audio guide you just rented. Another option to get in faster is to cross the street to the entrance of the Roman Forums where the line for tickets is usually much shorter - again, that tickets works for both sites. The Roman Forums, just across the street from the Colosseum, is an open area that houses many ruins from different Roman structure. If you're into Roman history, you'll enjoy this part, otherwise you might find it to be dull except for the main attraction within the Forums - the Arch of Titus. There are a few entrances to the Forums, so if you just want to see Titus, try to find the entrance near the Colosseum that leads right to it.
VaticanWebsiteIf you're into art/history, the Vatican museums will be unbelievable. DDFers have varying opinions about their experience in the museum. Some loved it (with and without tours/audio guides), others found it super boring. (Could that be because they didn't take a tour?) You will also want to AYLOR about going into the Sistine Chapel, which is the last room you'll get to if you follow the museum path (somehow the @Yehudas completely missed it). To avoid entering the chapel, you can either ask the guard standing there if you can go through exit that's there (explain religious reasons, etc.) or go back through the whole museum. The lines here can be just as long as the Colossuem or they could be non-existent. Buying tickets online beforehand/going with a group should help with that.
Trevi Fountain, Pantheon,        Spanish StepsTourYou can simply walk up to these sites and check them out or you can take the New Rome Walking Tour which is a daily, free walking tour that covers these sites among others and lasts for about 2.5 hours. AYLOR about the Pantheon (as it's a church as well as a potential issue for Kohanim), although even if you don't go in, just seeing the building is worth stopping by.
Capitoline MuseumWebsiteLocated in the Forum area.  A series of buildings with lots of art, statues, etc.  You can rent an audio tour that's well worth it.
Outside Of RomeImages
Villa D'este, TivoliWebsiteIf you're willing to drive outside of Rome for about an hour (doesn't add too much time to a trip heading towards Florence/Pisa), you might want to stop in Tivoli to see this. It's an old estate that has a quick house to walk through (not too exciting) and then an absolutely stunning fountain garden in the back. You'll see tons of fountains, each designed differently, along with a great view of the countryside.
Cinque TerreWebsiteFive villages: Monterosso al Mare, Vernazza, Corniglia, Manarola, and Riomaggiore. The coastline, the five villages, and the surrounding hillsides are all part of the Cinque Terre.
Portofino (Harbor)Website Italian fishing village and holiday resort famous for its picturesque harbour and historical association with celebrity and artistic visitors.
FlorenceWebsite The capital city of the Italian region of Tuscany and of the Metropolitan City of Florence.


Shuls:

NameMore InfoComments
_________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
Great Synagogue of RomeWebsiteShacharis at 7:45AM, Mincha/Maariv before/after Shkia, Nusach Italki.
Oratorio di CastroN/ACesare Balbo 33, 17 minute walk from the Westin, Eidut Mizrach
ChabadWebsite, WebsiteIt seems like there are 2 websites for Chabad, with the first having some dead links, but otherwise good Jewish info, while the second seems to be the current, live site. Shabbos meals can be arranged at Chabad.


Food:

Basically all of the Kosher restaurants are on the 1 block strip of the Ghetto, aside for Yotvata, which is about 2 blocks away. All the restaurants listed below are under the Beis Din of Rome. Yehoshua and @Yehuda were told by their LORs to contact Rabbi Eidlitz from KosherQuest.org to find out more information about Kashrus in Rome. He suggested to both of them to call and rely on a Rabbi in Milan. The Rabbi there said that one should only eat in the dairy places in Rome. From the thread, you'll learn that people found out that the Jews of Italy don't require Glatt meat, which is why eating at the meat restaurants is more of a sketchy issue, although some places do offer Glatt as an option (if that works for you).

NameMore InfoComments
__________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________________
BA"Ghetto MilkyWebsiteAh, BA"Ghetto. The best place to eat in Rome (if you're only eating dairy). The pasta here is homemade and other-worldly. You must, must eat here. Ok, hope that was clear enough. Try one thing, try 'em all! You can also get a famous, tasty Roman/Jewish artichoke here, although not everyone thinks it's as good as they say. You can eat outside on the street under umbrellas, and ah! it's just a fantastic experience. There is also a BA"Ghetto Meaty down the block, but that faces the Glatt issue raised above. BA"Ghetto is right near the Great Synagogue, so it's kinda in the middle of the strip of Kosher restaurants (just for a reference point).
YotvataWebsite2 blocks away from the Ghetto, Yotvata is a very nice dairy place that's often compared to BA"Ghetto. Generally, the prices are slightly cheaper here. Most agree that although the food does taste good here, BA"Ghetto is just better.
Little TripoliWebsiteLocated in the Piazza Bologna area. This is a Mediterranean cuisine restaurant which is under the hashgacha of the local chabad and is Glatt Kosher.
GelatoN/AA little ice cream shop a few stores down from BA"Ghetto Milky that serves great tasting and cheap ice cream. Depending on your schedule, you might find yourself at 2-3 o'clock without having yet eaten lunch and might be able to pull off some ice cream/milkshake as a cheap lunch meal to save some money and hold you off until dinner.
BakeryN/AOffically known as Pasticceria Boccione and Il Forno de Ghetto, you can find this Kosher bakery on a corner in the Ghetto adjacent to the Gelato store. The store is extremely tiny, with very few baked goods on display (especially stuff that you'll recognize), but you may find some donuts and croissants that are tasty.
Kosher Delight GroceryN/ADown the block from BA"Ghetto Milky, this grocery is very small, but does have a few packaged goods from Israel that could help you put together some food for the road. You can also buy fancy cheeses at low prices that you can't get close to in America.
Flour Farina E CucinaN/AIf you have 1st hand experience please comment/update Flour is a very cool Dairy restaurant: Important note: All the cooked and baked goods are cholov Yisroel BUT the milk used for the coffee has a default option of cholov stam and you need to request cholov yisroel for the coffee/drinks - According to 2 people I spoke to at Flour (04/15/18) Located outside the ghetto - Address is: Via Cremona, 29-37, 00161 Roma RM, Italy.
Open from 7am but ala carte options typically only available during specific hours.

« Last edited by yitzy93 on August 23, 2023, 09:25:17 PM »

Author Topic: Rome Master Thread  (Read 781055 times)

Offline ckmk47

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2600 on: July 10, 2018, 08:29:45 PM »
How bad is it to stay in Trastevere or Vatican City for the 2 weeknights I'll be in Rome?
You'll have to travel to kosher food and minyan.
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Offline Ploni3

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2601 on: July 10, 2018, 09:40:59 PM »
We used Mrs. Labi and were extremely happy.  She gave very generous portions and we had plenty of left overs from Shabbos. She provided a hot plate as well. The only issue was that we had to pick it up but it was just a cab ride from the ghetto.
As far as an Airbnb, we stayed in a fantastic one. It was pricy as we needed comfortable space for 7-  but location was fantastic - though we had some Shabbos issues. Please PM me if it's relevant.

Offline Mootkim

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2602 on: July 11, 2018, 03:19:21 PM »
Looking to do a trip to Rome, Florence, and Venice with possible stopover for a full day in London sometime in either mid-November or beginning of December. Does anyone know from experience what the weather is like that time of year? Is it really not optimal to be walking around Rome or Venice then?

TIA
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Offline @Yehuda

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2603 on: July 11, 2018, 03:48:27 PM »
BUMP
GIYF "Weather in Rome in December"

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2604 on: July 13, 2018, 12:29:21 AM »
How bad is it to stay in Trastevere or Vatican City for the 2 weeknights I'll be in Rome?
you can stay in Vatican city? I don't think thats possible
READ THE DARN WIKI!!!!

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Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2605 on: July 13, 2018, 12:37:26 AM »
you can stay in Vatican city? I don't think thats possible
Why? Maybe some nun has an Airbnb?

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2606 on: July 13, 2018, 12:42:09 AM »
Why? Maybe some nun has an Airbnb?
Didn't even think abiut abnb. Was thinking hotels, but a Google search revealed 1
READ THE DARN WIKI!!!!

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Offline Al

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2607 on: July 15, 2018, 09:36:34 PM »
Is there any way to book a trip from USA to Rome and return through Venice (or vice versa) as a round trip ticket?
Thanks.

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2608 on: July 15, 2018, 09:38:48 PM »
What would be the best way to find the best available airfare deals (cash or points) for such a trip?

Offline @Yehuda

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2609 on: July 15, 2018, 09:54:40 PM »
Is there any way to book a trip from USA to Rome and return through Venice (or vice versa) as a round trip ticket?
Thanks.
Yes, it's called an open jaw, which means you land in one airport but depart from another airport. But sorry, I don't have details on helping you book.

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2610 on: July 15, 2018, 10:14:42 PM »

What would be the best way to find the best available airfare deals (cash or points) for such a trip?
Yes, it's called an open jaw, which means you land in one airport but depart from another airport. But sorry, I don't have details on helping you book.
When you search, you look under "multi-city"
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Offline shaulyaakov

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2611 on: July 15, 2018, 10:25:53 PM »
Is there any way to book a trip from USA to Rome and return through Venice (or vice versa) as a round trip ticket?
Thanks.
Venice is usually much more expensive than Rome. It might make sense to go back to either Rome or Milan.

Offline maylei

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2612 on: July 15, 2018, 10:27:48 PM »
I'm flying to Venice and coming back with Rome it came out cheaper for me

Offline chff

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2613 on: July 16, 2018, 01:12:47 AM »
Any recommendations for a decent Airbnb near the center of Rome?
Still looking?

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2614 on: July 16, 2018, 03:17:56 AM »
How bad is it to stay in Trastevere or Vatican City for the 2 weeknights I'll be in Rome?
Trastevere is more slummy , but cheaper ,and u can take the 8 tram to get to the ghetto. It's a short ride

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2615 on: July 16, 2018, 07:15:12 AM »
Still looking?

Trastevere is more slummy , but cheaper ,and u can take the 8 tram to get to the ghetto. It's a short ride

Got a place. Thanks.

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Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2616 on: July 16, 2018, 08:02:24 AM »
Trastevere is more slummy , but cheaper ,and u can take the 8 tram to get to the ghetto. It's a short ride

It's also a pretty short walk - no reason to tram IMO.

Offline dvol

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dvol Europe Trip Report
« Reply #2617 on: July 16, 2018, 04:05:33 PM »
I did a 10 day Europe trip with my SO and another couple and will post short trip reports in the forums for each of the 4 cities we visited since most things we have done have already been posted about it in detail.

Part 1 - Rome


This trip was booked spur of the moment (at least for me) about 2 weeks before we flew. I usually book my long trips months in advance. Being that I needed 4 seats in J on the same flight I was very limited in my options so I booked KLM: JFK-AMS-FCO through Flying Blue. I believe it was about ~60k + $250 per person (factor in that I transferred these points from Amex and received the 25% bonus so in effect it was really ~48k p/p).

Although it was a 777 with a 2-2-2 configuration I was pleasantly surprised by the comfortability and general condition of the seats and the business class cabin in general. The service was great and our FA couldn't have been more pleasant and helpful.





We ordered the kosher meal and while the appetizer portion was frozen solid:


The main was decent enough and did the job.


We landed a few minutes late in AMS and were strolling leisurely towards the lounge when we realized there was an enormous line by passport control. Thankfully the guards kept walking along the line and announcing "flights boarding before XX:XX time can come to this line" and after just 5 minutes we were directed to the much shorter so-called family line. This also meant we did not have to clear immigration in FCO airport which worked out very well since we had a tour scheduled shortly after we landed.

We stopped into the not too impressive KLM lounge for exactly 5 minutes (no time for pics) then had to walk what felt like the entire airport to get to our connecting gate. The flight was just over an hour and was the European "ghetto business" class where the middle seat of each business class row was skipped.

There is no UberX in Rome, only UberBlack or UberVan so we opted to take a regular taxi to our hotel, the Palazzo Naiadi (formerly the Boscolo Rome) which was a set rate of I think 50 or 55 euro and we managed to fit 4 people and 6 suitcases into one car. This was only possible because I had exchanged some Euro back in NY since the taxis do not accept credit cards.

We arrived to our hotel about 2PM, checked in and went straight to the Great Synagogue to meet David Walden from Rome for Jews for our 3 o'clock tour of the Jewish Ghetto. He had a bunch of groups going out at that time and luckily our tour was with David himself, and it was just the 4 of us with 1 other couple. The price was 250 Euro per couple, cash only.

The hotel was beautiful and the rooms were decent sized, especially for Europe. This was booked using 45k Marriot points(=15K SPG) + $110 per night and it was pretty centrally located, not more than a 10 minute taxi ride from almost everything we did.

Back to the tour:

David is very colorful and a great storyteller. We thoroughly enjoyed our semi-private tour with him and would highly recommend it to anyone. I won't walk you through the entire tour as there is enough info out there about all of these places, but here are some highlights, some of which I can name and some I haven't the faintest idea of:

The Great Synagogue:







In the streets of the ghetto:





The locals enjoying the scene:



Horsing around with David:



Our tour ended about 6:30 and we had some drinks at Bar Toto including their famous iced tea made with frozen lemonade. We then headed to Bella Carne for dinner down the street.

I'm not 100% sure if they offered non-Glatt meat as well, but as far as I could tell most (if not all) of the menu was Glatt. The food was very tasty while not blowing us away.

We had a 5 hour private tour scheduled for the next day at 1:30PM of the Vatican and Colosseum so we just went straight back to our hotel after dinner.

While I had inquired with both David and Micaela from Jewish Roma about Jewish tours of the Vatican and Colosseum, I was told that they did not do private tours in June and July as it is their busiest season. While we would have greatly preferred that, we chose a non-Jewish tour instead that did offer private tours.

After much research and finding that a lot of companies no longer had availability being high season and last minute, I booked through romeprivateguides.com and I have to say our guide was great (forgot her name), very informative and spoke English very well. The cost for the 5 hour tour was 546 Euro (350 for the tour and 49 entrance fees per person x 4). This included everything besides the taxi from the Vatican to the Colosseum.

Our tour started at the entrance to Vatican City at 1:30 and our guide was great about taking us only where we wanted to go and skipping what we didn't want to see. We also got to skip the enormous line circling the streets since we had booked the tour. I do have to say that our guide said something about making a reservation for 4 Euro and skipping the line as well. But I do recommend a guide since we saw all these other tourists wandering around looking completely lost and having no idea what they were seeing or where to go (audioguides and all- it's still confusing).

Once we finished Vatican city we hopped an Uber to the colosseum. We found it very fascinating and again really appreciated having a tour guide. She kept us enthralled and we were actually surprised when the 5 hours was up. I doubt this would have been the case if we were part of a much larger tour group and so that is the main reason we chose to do only a private tour.

None of us had really eaten yet that day besides for some snacks and we were starving by the time the tour was done. We took another Uber back to the Ghetto and went to Alice Pizza. They serve by weight and not slice and the pizza was incredible.



We then headed back to our hotel, had some drinks, freshened up and went back to the ghetto for dinner (like I said, just a short cab ride from our hotel).

This time we went to Su-Ghetto and I for one was too exhausted to remember what I ate but the food was very good and nobody went to sleep hungry.

The next morning we checked out at about 11 and had the hotel hold our suitcases so we could do some more touring on our last day. We walked from our hotel to the Trevi Fountain (about 15 minutes) and shopped for some trinkets in all the tourist traps along the way. The streets were packed and the sun was BAKING but it was a nice colorful and enjoyable stroll. All of the really expensive designer stores are in the blocks near the Trevi Fountain and we enjoyed browsing and even picked up a few things. Because the dollar is doing pretty ok against the Euro right now (I believe it was 1.16) we were able to get some great deals and still get the 12% tax refund as well.

By the time we were done we had to run back to our hotel, pick up our luggage and run to make our 6:15PM train to Venice. I had booked Treno Italo since it was cheaper for that day than Trenitalia although the timings were very similar. I booked the first class seats and the entire ride took about 4 hours. It was actually very enjoyable and the views were out of this world.



Next up:
Venice
« Last Edit: July 19, 2018, 03:56:07 PM by Dan »

Offline mochjas

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Re: Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2618 on: July 16, 2018, 05:04:07 PM »
I think you should make a new thread and put all 4 in one. But nice job so far!

Offline maylei

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Re: Re: Rome Master Thread
« Reply #2619 on: July 16, 2018, 05:27:52 PM »
I think you should make a new thread and put all 4 in one. But nice job so far!
I would love if you could do that i am going in 3 weeks and would love to see your trip report