I need Electric Help... Any electricians out there?

[Yo ssi]

So it sounds like a timer plus 2 switches is just not doable, but let me just clarify the outcome I'm looking for, in case I didn't explain it correctly initially. If the timer is off, neither the fan nor the heater should turn on regardless of the position of each of their switches. If the timer is on, each appliance should only be on if its switch is also on. Is that doable?

Simple! Get this, wire your live first to the timer (be sure it's rated for 15A+) and then to two of the three switches (for heater and fan).

[skyguy918]

Simple! Get this, wire your live first to the timer (be sure it's rated for 15A+) and then to two of the three switches (for heater and fan).

That's what I was thinking, I just figured I'd end up needing help figuring out the wiring.

In the end, I found covers that fit. It's really only an issue when overnight guests come, and that's not frequent enough to justify the cost and complication of a better solution.

Thanks to all who replied for your suggestions and advice.

[yungermanchik]

That's what I was thinking, I just figured I'd end up needing help figuring out the wiring.

In the end, I found covers that fit. It's really only an issue when overnight guests come, and that's not frequent enough to justify the cost and complication of a better solution.

Thanks to all who replied for your suggestions and advice.

which one?

[David R]

So then I was thinking a single gang 3 switch on one side and a mechanical countdown timer on the other side, somehow wired so the light switch is controlled directly, but the fan switch and heater switch are tied into the timer (so that they only trigger when both the timer is active and their individual switch is on). Is that even possible?

Yes.

But not this one:

Simple! Get this, wire your live first to the timer (be sure it's rated for 15A+) and then to two of the three switches (for heater and fan).

The problem is that the model you suggest only has one terminal for the hot wire entering the switch. When the timer is off, all three switches will be as if they are off, but skyguy918 wanted one switch to be independent of the timer.

When I needed three switches with different hot inputs, I got this one: https://www.amazon.com/Legrand-Pass-Seymour-RCD113WCC6-Pass-Switches/dp/B01N8PQ2OY

[Shmueli]

If you look at the picture there is a U shaped depression on the right side
There should be one on the bottom too
This is the same size a electrical conduit ("pipe" you run wires in )
Would recommend you surface mount timer exactly as you show in the picture but run the wires in conduit instead of loose
There should even be a fitting (which Murphy's law says your local hardware store will not have) that sits in the place of the old switch with a conduit adapter opening facing upwards

@SHL
Thanks for your help.

I did as you described and it works great.
I ended up just putting the timer directly above the switch and rubbed down a small hole in the top of the switch for the wires to come out and go directly into the timer w/o being exposed...

One question..
The IN wires for the heater were not long enough to reach the timer to double on to the IN screws. Also, the wires are thick and it looks like I wouldn't be able to fit 2 wires under one screw.

Can I simply take the 2 IN wires and have them split off to the heater (before they enter the timer)? So half would go to the boiler timer and half to the heater (Like a "Y")

In other words.. I would take the brown and blue wires that run from the wall into the IN of the timer, and cut them halfway. Then attach the 2 halves of the blue as well as the blue for the heater all together so everything has power (and then do the  same for the brown).

I'm not sure if I am explaining myself well. LMK...

Thanks!!

[SHL]

@SHL
Thanks for your help.

I did as you described and it works great.
I ended up just putting the timer directly above the switch and rubbed down a small hole in the top of the switch for the wires to come out and go directly into the timer w/o being exposed...

One question..
The IN wires for the heater were not long enough to reach the timer to double on to the IN screws. Also, the wires are thick and it looks like I wouldn't be able to fit 2 wires under one screw.

Can I simply take the 2 IN wires and have them split off to the heater (before they enter the timer)? So half would go to the boiler timer and half to the heater (Like a "Y")

In other words.. I would take the brown and blue wires that run from the wall into the IN of the timer, and cut them halfway. Then attach the 2 halves of the blue as well as the blue for the heater all together so everything has power (and then do the  same for the brown).

I'm not sure if I am explaining myself well. LMK...

Thanks!!

You will need to explain better what you mean by split

If you are describing stripping a section in the middle looping over the connection and then continuing that is not normally done

If you are saying split stranded wire into 2 wires definitely not safe

Why don't you just buy a meter of wire
You can get it in any hardware store by the meter and then route the incoming power first to the heater then out to the timer and boiler
I believe I detailed that too but can re write it step by step if you want to go that route

[avadah]

I want to get a video doorbell and security camera. My contractor says the cheapest way to do it is with a wifi system like Ring and have a wall mounted tablet. Is there any options besides a tablet? (I know I can technically lock all the apps but still want to avoid it)

Thanks

[CountValentine]

I want to get a video doorbell and security camera. My contractor says the cheapest way to do it is with a wifi system like Ring and have a wall mounted tablet. Is there any options besides a tablet? (I know I can technically lock all the apps but still want to avoid it)

Thanks

https://www.mysmartahome.com/is-there-a-monitor-to-use-with-the-ring-doorbell/

[aygart]

I want to get a video doorbell and security camera. My contractor says the cheapest way to do it is with a wifi system like Ring and have a wall mounted tablet. Is there any options besides a tablet? (I know I can technically lock all the apps but still want to avoid it)

Thanks

There are options but they may not be better ones.

[Moish613]

I want to get a video doorbell and security camera. My contractor says the cheapest way to do it is with a wifi system like Ring and have a wall mounted tablet. Is there any options besides a tablet? (I know I can technically lock all the apps but still want to avoid it)

Thanks

Are your walls open? If yes, you should probably hardwire it. WIFI-based devices are never as reliable as hardwired.

[Yo ssi]

I want to get a video doorbell and security camera. My contractor says the cheapest way to do it is with a wifi system like Ring and have a wall mounted tablet. Is there any options besides a tablet? (I know I can technically lock all the apps but still want to avoid it)

Thanks

Rule of thumb, doorbell cameras aren't for security and security cameras are hardwired.

[Yehudaa]

security cameras are hardwired.

Out of curiosity, why?

[avadah]

There are options but they may not be better ones.

Such as?

Are your walls open? If yes, you should probably hardwire it. WIFI-based devices are never as reliable as hardwired.

Walls are open but contractor says bringing in a low voltage guy is gonna cost a lot more for such a small job.

Rule of thumb, doorbell cameras aren't for security and security cameras are hardwired.

doorball cam is simply to see if i want to answer the door

[Yo ssi]

Out of curiosity, why?

Lots of reasons main one is security
GIYF

[Yehudaa]

Lots of reasons main one is security
GIYF

Interesting. I had remembered this discussion where it sounded like Ring (or similar) with a good password/2FA was more secure than many people's hardwired setups, but I guess a hardwired setup with proper security beats those?

[yelped]

Such as?
Walls are open but contractor says bringing in a low voltage guy is gonna cost a lot more for such a small job.
doorball cam is simply to see if i want to answer the door

You can do it yourself, especially since the walls are open. Don't need a "low voltage guy".

[Yo ssi]

Interesting. I had remembered this discussion where it sounded like Ring (or similar) with a good password/2FA was more secure than many people's hardwired setups, but I guess a hardwired setup with proper security beats those?

Didn't read the whole thing but not opening a port is security 101, and got nothing specifically to do with wired or wireless. It's the same bases as to using hardwired Internet it's more reliable more stable and therefore more secure. There is obviously a lot more to it.

[myi]

Such as?
Walls are open but contractor says bringing in a low voltage guy is gonna cost a lot more for such a small job.
doorball cam is simply to see if i want to answer the door

Where do you live? And what's your price budget to install the cameras? Are you looking for a cheap system? Or something better like Hikevision cameras and system. Also how many cameras?
 Going that route you'll have clear footage and free recording and the option to have it connected to wifi. As well you'll be able to use a regular computer monitor as the display. Meaning just a screen. Yes if you're a tad handy you can buy wire the system and the cameras and do it yourself.

[Yo ssi]

Where do you live? And what's your price budget to install the cameras? Are you looking for a cheap system? Or something better like Hikevision cameras and system. Also how many cameras?
 Going that route you'll have clear footage and free recording and the option to have it connected to wifi. As well you'll be able to use a regular computer monitor as the display. Meaning just a screen. Yes if you're a tad handy you can buy wire the system and the cameras and do it yourself.

Probably smarter to go with reolink