Author Topic: HVAC (heating and AC) question  (Read 104192 times)

Offline MSach

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #500 on: February 28, 2025, 02:40:50 AM »
Thanks, just to confirm, there's no WiFi needed for this to work, correct?

Correct, this is a fully wired solution. No WiFi needed. (Just the module, and a few inches of wire if you take the one without the included leads.)

(It will give you the ability to use WiFi thermostats, which usually require a "C" wire, after you install it)

Offline Berenstein Bear

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #501 on: April 08, 2025, 09:44:40 PM »
Professional opinion question
When doing (2br, 800 +/- sq ft) basement apartment, I can do any ac option (doing baseboard heat). On the fence between mini splits and central. Difference of about 1k initial investment. Anyone care to weigh in?

Offline tov hashem

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #502 on: June 08, 2025, 12:37:07 AM »
what is it, a whistle noise from my HVAC AC? however when i take off the filter the noise goes away, (new filter MERV 7)

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #503 on: June 08, 2025, 08:49:44 AM »
what is it, a whistle noise from my HVAC AC? however when i take off the filter the noise goes away, (new filter MERV 7)
Check for air leaking before the filter.

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #504 on: June 11, 2025, 03:24:03 PM »
I need advice, I want to close my garage into a room. I had an HVAC guy come down to assess my idea and he pushed back heavily.

There's a duct behind the sheetrock that carries across the back end of garage until the front at the garage doors angling up as a floor vent for the room above. I want to create a Y Split and send one down to where it has been going, and one drop down a few feet later into the new enclosed room from garage. The HVAC "professional" advised me to stay far away from that because it will mess with the whole system and probably break it (it's a brand new system). I will insulate the garage doors, as well as the new wall frame that's demising the garage to new room.

My question is will this Y-Split in fact be an issue or did he just want to plug his $10,000 unit he tried convincing to buy after?

TIA

Offline notyettaken

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #505 on: June 11, 2025, 08:17:44 PM »
How many units does the house have now?

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #506 on: June 11, 2025, 10:05:36 PM »
1 unit, 3 floors, 2,220 sqft

Offline notyettaken

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #507 on: June 11, 2025, 11:49:36 PM »
you shouldn't need a new unit worst comes to worst if it can't cool the house with the garage add a mini split in the garage, or better yet the kitchen. I would be careful on how you add the ducts to the garage as you don't want to take too much from the room it is going to. (and a new unit won't help make your ducting balanced)

explanation:
Your cooling load is not based on the square feet of your floor, it is based on how much heat is being added to your house. There are three main sources of heat, people, the kitchen and outside. We will ignore the first two because they are not changing, the only thing changing is heat gain from outside. The heat gain from outside is based on the number of square feet of wall between inside and outside (plus how well it is insulated), finishing your garage doesn't change the number of square feet of exterior wall by much because it is just shifting it from the house-garage wall to the garage-outside wall.

Offline somefield

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #508 on: June 12, 2025, 09:15:59 AM »
I need advice, I want to close my garage into a room. I had an HVAC guy come down to assess my idea and he pushed back heavily.

There's a duct behind the sheetrock that carries across the back end of garage until the front at the garage doors angling up as a floor vent for the room above. I want to create a Y Split and send one down to where it has been going, and one drop down a few feet later into the new enclosed room from garage. The HVAC "professional" advised me to stay far away from that because it will mess with the whole system and probably break it (it's a brand new system). I will insulate the garage doors, as well as the new wall frame that's demising the garage to new room.

My question is will this Y-Split in fact be an issue or did he just want to plug his $10,000 unit he tried convincing to buy after?

TIA
Look into Arzel Zoning.

Offline Mark Twain

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #509 on: June 12, 2025, 01:42:20 PM »
What would a ballpark figure be for parts and installation of a 2-ton dual-fuel heat pump?

Offline AYHG

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #510 on: June 12, 2025, 02:29:03 PM »
Not sure if I should post this here, or here: https://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=65068.0

But I'll start here.

I have this very old and very proprietary carrier/bryant thermostat:

(I forgot to take a pic of mine this morning so this is a generic pic I found)



First, anyone know how to get it off the wall? I tried pulling and prying every way imaginable and if I use any more force it will either crack or the screws themselves will come out of the wall. Second, anyone know if I can replace this with a wifi thermostat? From what I'm reading online since this is so proprietary and locked up to carrier I wont be able to use a different thermostat without chaging the control board which I'm obviously not ready to do.

And since I can't get it off the wall I'm not exactly sure which model it is to look for a manual, I found this http://www.graycoolingman.com/uploads/1/0/6/6/10667336/iiuid01-0-1.pdf but I don't know if it's mine and either way, like I said, I tried every possible way to get the face plate off the wall but it wont budge :-(

I recently moved into a house with this same Bryant system and did a bit of research. I'm not very knowledgeable around HVAC systems, but I'll share what I learned.
Despite the thermostat's archaic appearance, mine is actually not that old - it's from circa 2008.

I had the same difficulty attempting to remove it from the wall. We just painted, so I had the painter yank the whole thing, with the screws and anchors, out of the wall in order to fill the holes, anticipating that I would be replacing the thermostat.
Here's a video of how one guy managed to remove it: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=deyChaaEh6Y
After looking into this system, I will probably just reinstall this thermostat. I haven't yet managed to separate mine from the backing plate in order to reinstall it. Good luck! 

I learned that this is an advanced communicating thermostat that pairs directly with the control board in the furnace. It communicates with a whole bunch of complex sensors to monitor all functions of the system and set trouble codes for any faults. There's actual data coming through the wires. It's supposed to be more energy efficient and supposedly "learns" how to control the temp most efficiently in your space. It also allows for more controls, such as variable speeds, and advanced humidity controls.

While it may technically be possible to bypass the smart functions of the system and switch to a "basic" system, it would require extensive rewiring at the control board, and the HVAC techs seem to be yelling at people not to 'downgrade'.

Also, this thermostat runs on just 4 wires because a communicating system doesn't require a separate signal wire for each function. Unless you have additional unused wires running from the thermostat, even if you rewire the control board, you won't have enough wires for standard wifi thermostats, which require at least 5 wires. (it's possible that this issue could be bypassed with one of those Honeywell c-wire adapter kits - I'm not knowledgeable enough for this, but you will still lose humidity controls.)

Maybe someone more knowledgeable here can chime in.

What would probably make the most sense in this situation is to replace the thermostat with a recent model Bryant Evolution/Carrier Infinity wifi thermostat. They're quite costly though, and it means further investing in a 17+ yr old system. (I imagine that the current models of these complex Bryant Evolution/Carrier Infinity systems [compatible with these thermostats if the current system conks] are significantly more expensive than the standard Ruud systems they seem to be installing everywhere.)

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #511 on: June 12, 2025, 07:56:08 PM »
What would a ballpark figure be for parts and installation of a 2-ton dual-fuel heat pump?
My friend that does this says it's $2,500-3k, that's without replacing the coils.
If you're in NJ you can reach out to Shaya 9I7-7I7-0I4I
(I am not affiliated)

Offline Mark Twain

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #512 on: June 15, 2025, 01:50:44 PM »
My friend that does this says it's $2,500-3k, that's without replacing the coils.
If you're in NJ you can reach out to Shaya 9I7-7I7-0I4I
(I am not affiliated)
Thanks, I'm getting a quote around 18k?! To clarify, it would be changing my current furnace and AC to a dual fuel heat pump, so perhaps there's more labor involved but thats a big gap so not quite sure

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #513 on: June 15, 2025, 03:12:06 PM »
Thanks, I'm getting a quote around 18k?! To clarify, it would be changing my current furnace and AC to a dual fuel heat pump, so perhaps there's more labor involved but thats a big gap so not quite sure
The price range I mentioned was only for installing the 2 ton dual fuel heat pump condenser (outside unit). It sounds like you're replacing a complete system so that'll be a lot more, but 18k is definitely above what most systems should cost. Perhaps it's a more complicated house to remove/install etc.

Offline davidd75

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #514 on: June 26, 2025, 11:55:40 AM »
My thermostat randomly jumps to 78 degrees even though I set it at 72 hold.  never had this  before any ideas?

the thermostat is very old but everything with the AC central unit else seems to be working

Offline CountValentine

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #515 on: June 26, 2025, 12:21:52 PM »
Can it be losing power or a power glitch? Can 78 be the default setting?
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Offline davidd75

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #516 on: June 26, 2025, 02:36:15 PM »
Can it be losing power or a power glitch? Can 78 be the default setting?

maybe

how can I check and correct both possible issues?

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #517 on: June 26, 2025, 02:57:07 PM »
maybe

how can I check and correct both possible issues?
For my system it would be easy. I would just turn off the switch on my furnace. This would cut the power (24vdc) to my thermostat. I would turn the switch back on and see if it reset to 78. All systems are different.
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Offline notyettaken

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #518 on: June 26, 2025, 03:11:08 PM »
If it's an old thermostat it might be battery powered. Maybe try changing the batteries?

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #519 on: June 26, 2025, 03:30:46 PM »
If it's an old thermostat it might be battery powered. Maybe try changing the batteries?
Same theory. Pop out the batteries and see if it resets to 78.
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