Author Topic: HVAC (heating and AC) question  (Read 59745 times)

Offline Sport

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #100 on: August 08, 2018, 08:06:41 PM »
2.5 Ton unit recently started tripping the circuit breaker. 2 HVAC guys diagnosed it as the compressor beginning to fail and therefore causing a power surge. One said I need to replace the entire unit including the air handler in the attic because the model is not made anymore and replacing just the compressor on the condenser unit is that worth it because soon I'll have to replace the whole condenser unit.
The second guy says no problem to replace just the compressor.
Difference in price is about 4k-5k.
Any reason not to trust the second guy?

ETA: attached an image of the model in case it helps
What did the first guy quote you at?
I just had similar issue and ended up replacing both and put in a 5 ton unit for 6k.

Offline moko

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #101 on: August 08, 2018, 08:14:44 PM »
What did the first guy quote you at?
I just had similar issue and ended up replacing both and put in a 5 ton unit for 6k.
between 5&6k.
Currently it's only AC. Heat is gas/hot water. If I'm replacing, I'm definitely adding heat but I'm considering going with ductless in order to control the zones better. My research says it's a fortune e to add dampers to old duct work and they sometimes don't end up working properly.

Offline Meno

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #102 on: August 08, 2018, 08:19:24 PM »
If it is working for downstairs do you really need to block off the upstairs?

It's not great downstairs, it's just ok. There's cold air getting upstairs, it's just not enough to make a difference so it's a waste. I'd rather keep all that cold air downstairs.

Offline Sport

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #103 on: August 08, 2018, 08:24:31 PM »
between 5&6k.
Currently it's only AC. Heat is gas/hot water. If I'm replacing, I'm definitely adding heat but I'm considering going with ductless in order to control the zones better. My research says it's a fortune e to add dampers to old duct work and they sometimes don't end up working properly.
I thought you said diffr3nce in price between 1st and 2nd guy was 4-5k ?

Offline moko

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #104 on: August 08, 2018, 08:43:14 PM »
I thought you said diffr3nce in price between 1st and 2nd guy was 4-5k ?
second guy quoted 1k to replace the compressor

Offline ChaimMoskowitz

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #105 on: August 08, 2018, 09:30:10 PM »
It's not great downstairs, it's just ok. There's cold air getting upstairs, it's just not enough to make a difference so it's a waste. I'd rather keep all that cold air downstairs.
I am sure you already know that the air going upstairs will end up downstairs.
Any way to damper the whole upstairs at one spot? I have a damper right above the furnace that splits the house in half.
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Offline satturn

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #106 on: August 08, 2018, 09:31:24 PM »
2.5 Ton unit recently started tripping the circuit breaker. 2 HVAC guys diagnosed it as the compressor beginning to fail and therefore causing a power surge. One said I need to replace the entire unit including the air handler in the attic because the model is not made anymore and replacing just the compressor on the condenser unit is that worth it because soon I'll have to replace the whole condenser unit.
The second guy says no problem to replace just the compressor.
Difference in price is about 4k-5k.
Any reason not to trust the second guy?

ETA: attached an image of the model in case it helps
The major reason to change both is the type of refrigerant. Old units are R22 which is being phased out and is very expensive. The new stuff is called r410a. Most air handlers cannot be retrofitted to the new refrigerant and if you swith just the outside, if the inner goes you might end having to switch the outside again. There are some other refrigerants that mimic the old stuff so you can use that, but its not always so simple.

Offline moko

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #107 on: August 08, 2018, 09:47:50 PM »
The major reason to change both is the type of refrigerant. Old units are R22 which is being phased out and is very expensive. The new stuff is called r410a. Most air handlers cannot be retrofitted to the new refrigerant and if you swith just the outside, if the inner goes you might end having to switch the outside again. There are some other refrigerants that mimic the old stuff so you can use that, but its not always so simple.
literally just found that out. Second guy just called and said it's an additional $700 just for refrigerant....gonna get window units for a few weeks and hopefully it will cool off some. It should be at least 1-2k cheaper to replace off-season

Offline satturn

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #108 on: August 08, 2018, 09:52:52 PM »
keep in mind if you stay with r22 you risk it being totally unattainable if needed in the future and you will need to replace the entire thing.   

Offline Meno

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #109 on: August 09, 2018, 08:02:48 AM »
I am sure you already know that the air going upstairs will end up downstairs.
Any way to damper the whole upstairs at one spot? I have a damper right above the furnace that splits the house in half.

Some air will come downstairs, but certainly not all of it. A lot of it just gets wasted in the crawlspace where the ducts are, and a lot of the "coldness" gets absorbed by all the stuff upstairs.

The upstairs is just two rooms with a bathroom and a tiny "hallway" in the middle. There is only one  vertical duct going upstairs which splits into two for the two bedrooms (plus a small branch off to the bathroom). That vertical duct happens to run through a coat closet on the first floor so it would be very easy to access to put something in there.

Now that I think of it, there might actually be some kind of damper down in the basement. Remind me to check when I get home.

Offline somefield

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #110 on: August 09, 2018, 09:03:29 AM »
between 5&6k.
Currently it's only AC. Heat is gas/hot water. If I'm replacing, I'm definitely adding heat but I'm considering going with ductless in order to control the zones better. My research says it's a fortune e to add dampers to old duct work and they sometimes don't end up working properly.
A retrofit zoning solution will be more cost effective than ductless. I've mentioned this in the past, an Arzel zoning system will be simple to install and more often than not is cheaper than ductless.

Offline ChaimMoskowitz

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #111 on: August 09, 2018, 09:04:25 AM »
Remind me to check when I get home.
When you get home see if there is a damper in the basement for the upstairs.  :)
I just found a new supply of forks!

Offline Meno

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #112 on: August 09, 2018, 09:08:57 AM »
Thanks  :D

Offline ChaimMoskowitz

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #113 on: August 09, 2018, 09:09:59 AM »
I've mentioned this in the past, an Arzel zoning system will be simple to install and more often than not is cheaper than ductless.
Can you give us an idea of cost?
I just found a new supply of forks!

Offline aygart

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #114 on: August 09, 2018, 09:34:05 AM »
Some air will come downstairs, but certainly not all of it. A lot of it just gets wasted in the crawlspace where the ducts are, and a lot of the "coldness" gets absorbed by all the stuff upstairs.

The upstairs is just two rooms with a bathroom and a tiny "hallway" in the middle. There is only one  vertical duct going upstairs which splits into two for the two bedrooms (plus a small branch off to the bathroom). That vertical duct happens to run through a coat closet on the first floor so it would be very easy to access to put something in there.

Now that I think of it, there might actually be some kind of damper down in the basement. Remind me to check when I get home.
Why don't you just cut the duct in the closet and be done?
Feelings don't care about your facts

Offline somefield

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #115 on: August 09, 2018, 09:43:08 AM »
Can you give us an idea of cost?
Hard to give an exact number. Depending on quantity and size of dampers, type of control panel(i.e single stage etc.) prices range from 400-1000 per zone.

Offline ChaimMoskowitz

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #116 on: August 09, 2018, 09:47:27 AM »
Hard to give an exact number. Depending on quantity and size of dampers, type of control panel(i.e single stage etc.) prices range from 400-1000 per zone.
This is only a damper system? Must of the problems stem from not enough returns.
Lets say an upstairs bedroom is hot and the rest of the house is OK. Will it turn on the air conditioner to cool that room? What happens to the rest of the house?
I just found a new supply of forks!

Offline mercaz1

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #117 on: August 09, 2018, 10:05:17 AM »
does anyone have a recommendation for a hvac person who can remove mold? located in 5 towns if that makes a difference

Offline Meno

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #118 on: August 09, 2018, 10:12:24 AM »
Why don't you just cut the duct in the closet and be done?

I was considering this. I guess I just wanted to do it in a way that's easy to switch back and forth, just in case.

I've only been a homeowner for a week now, so I'm still getting used to the whole "it's my house I can do whatever I want" mentality.

Offline somefield

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Re: HVAC (heating and AC) question
« Reply #119 on: August 09, 2018, 10:17:52 AM »
This is only a damper system? Must of the problems stem from not enough returns.
Lets say an upstairs bedroom is hot and the rest of the house is OK. Will it turn on the air conditioner to cool that room? What happens to the rest of the house?
Question 1:I'm not sure what you're asking.
In response to your comment "most of the problems stem from not enough returns". That IS an issue however, increasing CFM to the zone that is calling typically overcomes the difficulties of lack of return air.
Question 2: yes.
Question 3: Dampers divert air only to zone that is calling for heat/air. Zones that are satisfied will not have heat/air going to them.