Our love for Hawaii Island (commonly known as the Big Island) is well known and some of you may have read my past two trip reports, which can be found here:
http://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=60541.0http://forums.dansdeals.com/index.php?topic=60745.0Our story began years ago while I was reading a photography magazine containing an article about shooting lava on Hawaii Island. I was absolutely mesmerized by the photographs and immediately began planning our first trip. Although DW had been bugging me to go to Hawaii before that time, I had never been interested until reading about the lava. Since that time, we have visited the Big Island several times and we have been very fortunate to befriend some truly wonderful individuals.
Earlier this summer, we heard reports that the lava was again flowing towards the ocean. The last time that there was ocean entry was in 2013 and although I had seen ocean entry on two prior visits, DW and the kids had not previously seen ocean entry from land. Also, my little guy wasn't even born yet when the lava was last flowing into the ocean in 2013. As soon as the lava flow hit the ocean, DW told me she wanted to go back to the Big Island and I wasn't arguing with her. Also, since I had recently become self employed, taking time off was not really an issue. I asked my boss for two weeks off and his response was take all the time that you need.
Flight to Hawaii:
ewr-hnl-koa map by
P Bryan, on Flickr
IMG-20160824-WA0007 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On the flight to Hawaii we received Regal kosher meals which weren't bad and they were edible.
For this trip, we decided to stay eleven nights at the Sheraton in Kona and two nights in Volcano. Although DW and I much prefer Volcano over Kona (the kids prefer Kona due to the swimming pool and nearby beaches), it made more sense for us to stay in Kona rather than Volcano for the bulk of this trip. DW didn't want to spend Shabbos in Volcano and the cost of staying at the Sheraton was minuscule (using SPG points) compared to Volcano (where I had to pay for the hotel with cash).
We arrived in Kona on Wednesday afternoon, picked up our rental car, stopped by Walmart for some drinks and supplies, and then headed to the Sheraton. Once again, we were treated well and upgraded to a large ocean front room containing three beds (only such room in the entire hotel). On the following day, we did some more shopping including buying a jogging stroller for our lava adventure. We stopped by Target and bought this stroller, which served us very well:
http://www.target.com/p/baby-trend-range-lx-jogger-chrome/-/A-15207263We also stopped by Greenwell Farms, one of our favorite spots in Kona. We took a farm tour and tasted delicious Kona Coffee.
Taking a tour of the farm:
DSC_7272 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Holding a coffee bean:
DSC_7257 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
I love Kona coffee!
DSC_7283 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
There is a resident chameleon but we couldn't find it this time.
DSC_7315 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Afterwards, we headed back to the hotel to get some sleep. We awoke at about 12:00 a.m. and headed out at about 12:30 a.m. for the drive to Kalapana for our trip to the ocean entry. At the present time, there are three ways to access the area where lava is flowing into the ocean: (i) walk the approximately 10 miles round trip over the county emergency access road from Kalapana (you can also walk over the road from the National Park side as well); (ii) rent a bicycle from one of several companies and ride to the ocean entry; or (iii) pay for Kalapana Cultural Tours to drive you most of the way and then hike or bike the remaining approximately 1.8 miles each way. We chose the shuttle tour as it is very important for us to do as much as we can as a family and expose our kids to these wonders. I was lucky to be introduced to the owner of Kalapana Cultural Tours, who graciously arranged a private tour for my family. We were shuttled in a 4WD van and we then hiked the remainder of the way to the lava flow. Unfortunately my buddy, photographer Bruce Omori, was unavailable to join us at that time. I was able to go out to shoot lava with Bruce later in our trip, more about which is discussed below.
The county emergency access road:
DSC_8005 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Photographs taken at the ocean entry:
DSC_7772 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
IMG_3239 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_7454 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_7854 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_7910 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Photographs of the lava from past trips:
Lava ocean entry on the Big Island of Hawaii in 2011. by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Lava flowing into the ocean on the Big Island of Hawaii in 2013. by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Lava flowing into the ocean on the Big Island of Hawaii in 2013 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After being out most of the night and into the morning hours, we returned back to the hotel for much needed naps. We relaxed and prepared for Shabbos at the Sheraton.
On Sunday we visited Punalu'u Black Sand Beach Park. Although we had driven past Punalu'u on prior trips, we had never previously visited this particular park. Punalu'u is famous for having sea turtles on the beach but none were there during our visit. I didn't find Punalu'u to be particularly attractive but it is relatively easy to access this park and the black sand beach.
DSC_8020 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Lilly pond behind the beach:
DSC_8024 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After Punalu'u, we visited South Point where we watched some local kids jump off the cliff into the ocean below. Also, I went hunting for the South Point marker, which denominates South Point as the southernmost point in the United States. After an unsuccessful attempt on my own, I asked one of the locals who was fishing in the area about the marker. He directed me to an area behind a large rock. Once again, I went off in search of the marker but found nothing. I went back to the local and he explained that the marker was nothing more than the remains of a plastic rod cemented in the rock:
DSC_8031 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After speaking to the local for a few minutes, he told me that his cousin owned Kalapana Cultural Tours and he asked me to send his regards. After South Point, we headed back to the hotel to pick up frozen meat that we had brought from home for a BBQ with friends. On the way to the BBQ, we stopped off at Walmart to buy a grill and supplies.
We met our friends and their families for a BBQ at a beach near Costco:
DJI_0006 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8070 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8075 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
We grilled hotdogs, salami, burgers, and vegetables. Our friends brought lilikoi (otherwise known as passion fruit) and breadfruit (which we grilled as well).
DSC_8045 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The lilikoi was delicious and we couldn't get enough. The breadfruit was...something to taste once. The fruits in Hawaii taste amazing and you can immediately tell the difference between Hawaii grown fruit and the stuff we get back home.
The following day we took a snorkel trip to Kealakekua Bay State Historical Park. Although we had snorkeled there once before, it was worthwhile to return. Once again, the kids had an amazing time. On the way there we saw a school of flying fish and on the way back we saw a pod of dolphins.
DSC_8101 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
P1020600 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After the snorkeling trip, we visited the beach by the Lava Lava Club in Waikoloa (near the Hilton), where we stayed for sunset. We had wanted to photograph sunset from behind the fish pond by 'Anaeho'omalu Beach, but it was closed for construction. Turtles can often be found on this beach but none were there when we visited. (Noticed a pattern yet?)
DSC_8244 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8251 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On Tuesday we visited Waimea and the Parker Ranch.
Driveway leading to the Parker Ranch:
DSC_8265 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8274 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Inside the main house:
DSC_8292 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Room inside another house at the ranch:
DSC_8318 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After Parker Ranch we visited Umauma Falls, which is considered by some to be the most beautiful waterfalls on the Big Island. We received free admission as it was raining when we pulled up. However, when we arrived at the falls, the rain stopped and we had a perfect view.
DSC_8344 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8376 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
My little guy took this picture of me:
IMG_4349 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On Wednesday we visited the Ocean Rider Seahorse Farm near the airport in Kona, information about which can be found here:
https://www.seahorse.com/At the seahorse farm, our kids were able to feed and hold seahorses and it was one of their favorite activities. We found out about the seahorse farm thanks to my buddy Mitch and his wife, who also happened to be on the Big Island at the same time.
DSC_8384 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8408 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8402 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8436 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Feeding some fish:
DSC_8460 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
The touch tank:
DSC_8498 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8510 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8489 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After the seahorse farm, we went to the Hilton at Waikoloa, which has a saltwater lagoon that is open to the ocean but contains grates to prevent anything dangerous from getting in. At the lagoon, you can rent hydro-bike, kayaks, or paddleboats and see colorful reef fish and green sea turtles. Due to the expected Hurricane Madeline, boat and equipment rentals were ended early. Luckily for us, neither of the two expected hurricanes affected us at all. The weather in Kona and Volcano was perfect for the days that we were in each place.
Information about the lagoon can be found here:
http://www.hiltonwaikoloavillage.com/resort-experiences/lagoon-and-beachWhile at the lagoon, the kids fed a sea turtle:
DSC_8665 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8689 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Since we were so close, we went back to the beach by the Lava Lava Club in Waikoloa for sunset. Once again, there were no sea turtles to be seen.
DSC_8707 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On Thursday we went to Pololu Valley, a short but steep hike to a black sand beach. Although it was pretty, Waipio is still my favorite valley and black sand beach on the Big Island.
DSC_8758 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8723 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8746 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
After Pololu, we visited Kiholo Bay where we stayed until sunset. Kiholo is another beach know for sea turtles but once again none were to be found.
DSC_8759 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8766 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8773 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On Friday, DW and the girls visited Mauna Loa Observatory while I stayed with the little guy at the Sheraton. Principally NOAA is based there, with a few other agencies also conducting experiments. A NOAA technician conducted the tour.
Road to the observatory:
IMG_5045 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Ozone detecting equipment is inside this telescope-like structure. The technician was happy to rotate the dome and open it for them.
IMG_5071 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Touring the observatory:
IMG_5094 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
List of famous astronauts who visited the observatory:
IMG_5135 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DW requests that I give you the following to ponder: is there more carbon dioxide in the air in the summer or winter and why?
After DW and the girls returned to the hotel, we prepared for Shabbos. I made a fried potato kugel:
DSC_8792 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DW made chicken in a crock pot, which was transferred out right before Shabbos, and replaced with cholent:
12369 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On Sunday, DW and the kids went swimming and used the water slide while I helped pack out for our transfer to Volcano. Along the way to Volcano we stopped off again at Greenwell Farms for delicious Kona coffee. One of the employees, Chai, recognized us and came running over asking me if I was Mr. PBaruch. When I responded that I was, she thanked me warmly for our return visit with an Asian greeting.
After Greenwell Farms we stopped off at two roadside fruit stands on the way to Volcano.
Cooks Bounty Fruit Stand:
DSC_8795 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8798 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Basket of lilikoi (DSC_8799) by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Judy's Fruit Stand:
DSC_8818 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8811 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8808 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
That evening, Bruce and I arranged to shoot the lava flowing into the ocean. After we arrived in Volcano I did my best to get some rest but the noise from the kids jumping about coupled with my excitement precluded any sleep. I was scheduled to meet up with Bruce at 1:30 a.m. at a gas station along the way to Kalapana. I arrived at the gas station at about 12:40 a.m. and went into the gas station convenience store. Afterwards, I sat in the car for a bit but became restless. I then decided to linger outside the car for a while. Several minutes later, four police cars showed up, which I though was due to the strange lurker hanging around. Luckily I wasn't tackled or tasered that evening. Bruce arrived at about 1:40 a.m. and we both went into the convenience store (right past the police officers) to stock up on drinks for the trip. After we exited the store, the police asked us if we were coming or going. I responded that it was "lava time" and asked if the police officers wanted to join, to which they all had a good laugh.
Bruce was able to drive his truck to the second gate down the county emergency access road (the farthest that anyone can drive), from which point we rode bicycles the rest of the way. I rented a bicycle from Kaimu Rentals (808-333-4392), which is owned by my friend Junior (same person who guided me and my friend Alex to the lava in 2011). I could not rent a bicycle from Kalapana Cultural Tours as they did not have anyone available to provide me with a bicycle in the middle of the night.
I mounted the bicycle wearing my heavy camera backpack and tripod, rode forward for a short distance, and promptly fell over sideways. I hadn't been on a bicycle in years and was off balance with the backpack and tripod (that was hanging off to one side). What happened next was quite comical. I got back on the bicycle but must have looked like a drunk as I weaved back and forth. Once I did get the hang of it, I realized how uncomfortable it was to sit on a narrow hard seat with a heavy load on my back. My tuchus ached for quite a while but we managed to arrive at the lava at about 3:30 a.m.
Shooting lava is incredibly challenging and the magic light is only there for a very brief period of time. Despite not always being able to properly capture the lava during the darkness of the night, Bruce and I both enjoyed the show. At times the lava flowed like a river into the ocean while at other times it dripped as if from a leaky faucet. We also saw lava exploding like a firecracker and lava balls rolling in the surf.
Pictures taken of the ocean entry:
DSC_8930 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_8958 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9272 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9302 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9392 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9686 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Videos taken of the ocean entry:
I returned back to the hotel in Volcano at about 9:00 a.m. and took a much needed nap for a few hours. We ran a few errands in the afternoon and then visited Volcanoes National Park, where we saw the endangered nene. We received a free one year family National Park Pass due to the following program for fourth graders:
https://www.everykidinapark.gov/get-your-pass/Pictures of the nene:
DSC_9778 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9768 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9730 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9737 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Flowers at Volcanoes National Park:
DSC_9702 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9749 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9748 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
Afterwards, we stopped off at Jagger Museum to observe Halemaumau Crater. The lava level in the crater was quite high and, for the first time, we were able to see lava spattering from the overlook. I did not, however, take any photographs at that time as I had previously seen better.
The following day we returned home:
ito-hnl-ewr map by
P Bryan, on Flickr
DSC_9781 by
P Bryan, on Flickr
On our flight home, we received Regal kosher meals which were absolutely horrible and barely edible. On our return flight this past February we received kosher meals from Oahu Kosher that were quite delicious. We were looking forward to receiving meals again from Oahu kosher and were very disappointed with the Regal meals. I'm not sure of the reason for the change but I hope UA continues to use Oahu Kosher in the future.
In summary, we didn't have the opportunity to do everything we would have liked due to time constraints and the two threatened hurricanes. Nevertheless, we had an extremely restful two-weeks on the Big Island which is unlike many of our other trips.
Thanks for reading and I hope you enjoyed this trip report.
