Author Topic: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy  (Read 6039 times)

Offline noturbizniss

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Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« on: July 30, 2018, 09:26:44 AM »
Part 1 - planning and first few hours.

First off, much thanks have to go to Dan for getting me into the miles game and to all the folks who helped me make decisions about flights and itineraries and other technicalities (@@yehuda, @EJB, @Yehoshua @kangaruu, @marcopolo, @DrMoose and anyone else I may have forgot.

A few months ago my wife decided we should go away in the summer as we had not been on a real vacation since our honeymoon.  (I later realized that oh yeah! It’s our tenth anniversary!). We got the OK from both sets of parents to take the kids for half a week or so each, I got the OK from work (which of course means nothing when senior management changes budget timelines, but then changes it again and everything works out).

The question we then had was where to go.  As this was the first time leaving our kids for more than a couple days we did not want to go more than 8 or so hours away via direct flight, so that basically removed Hawaii and Asia. I browsed the forums and DDFB and first thought that Panama would be great, but upon further research decided that there is no reason to leave sweaty humid NY to go to sweaty humid Miami Beach, Central America version.

I don’t remember when it was decided or became an option, but in the end we decided on Italy. Yes, I know, it is damn hot here too in July, but there is so much to do and it is so different than NY that we decided to go for it.

While I have been playing the CC game for nigh on 7 years and have a few millions points across the banks/airlines, I never have actually flown premium. I didn’t know the first place to start and I didn’t want to be a massive nudge. A friend suggested I try a website called Juicy Miles that assists with award ticket booking. I believe they charged $200 or $250 per couple.  I paid it, and in the end I did a lot of the work myself, but I got a lot of pointers and recommendations from them and it also helped with grabbing an SQ flight overnight when I slept because the points take between 1 and 100 hours to post.

In the end we booked Sunday evening EWR-FCO on LH J with a ~4 hour stop in FRA then arrive at noon FCO, spend 2 nights in Rome at the Pantheon Iconic Hotel Autograph Collection.  Train to Florence Wednesday evening, stay at __ one night, then rent a car and go to Terra di Seta for a tour Thursday AM, then drive to Cantina Giuliano for wine tour, then cooking class and dinner and stay overnight. Back to Florence Fri AM, if there is time do some Florency things then train to Venice for Shabbos with meals at GamGam restaurant and fly Venice to FRA Monday evening and SQ J FRA-JFK Tuesday AM.

Awards being what they are, a few weeks later I saw LH out of JFK open up that got us in at about 930 giving us more time so I called the United reservation line and asked to switch flights (told them it was 10th anniversary), and the woman changed the flights with no change fee.

While I had never flown premium cabin I really wanted  to grab LH F if it as available, however in the 2 weeks before nothing was opening up, and about 5 days before while search for F, I saw a direct UA flight open up for 60K (vs 70K on LH), and also get in at 7:45 AM. That would allow us to get our Jewish Ghetto tour on the first day instead of the originally planned third day.  I called the reservation line again and the agent said there would be a change fee and he could not waive it. Needless to say I HUCA’d and the next agent was able to waive it on the grounds that when I first booked this flight was not available so as a courtesy he would waive the fee. While I was and am disappointed we didn’t get LH F, the saving of 100k miles, direct flight, earlier arrival (and $30 lower taxes!!!) really left me no choice but to take it. I had already saved a KSMl with LH and when the agent switched to UA he also added the KSML. The next day (Thursday I believe) I logged into my account on UA and made sure the KSML was there (spoiler alert: it wasn’t on the flight).

Sunday afternoon, after cancelling the first UBER due to not having enough room in the Corolla for our luggage (and having the same guy take my trip 4 more times before getting a camry that fit) we arrived at EWR 2 hours before the flight.  Going through Polaris check in and Security was a breeze (even with my sneaker somehow not making it through the X-Ray (they found it right away) – I did have pre check, but somehow still needed the shoes to come off).

We proceeded to the Polaris lounge where they allowed me to open a new bottle of kosher wine and pour for myself and my wife.  After another glass for her and a glass of Balvenie doublewood for me we realized boarding had already started and made our way to gate C136 (of course it was at the very end of the terminal).

We breezed past the boarding line as was our rightful DUE and turned LEFT to our seats (should have made a shehecheyanu!!), 8A and 8B. Unfortunately they were right by the galley and kind of noisy, however there was nothing else available as we had booked so late.  The captain was going around talking to all the superior passengers in J and introduced himself (Greg something). I asked him about the radio broadcast via the entertainment system that I had read about from years ago, and he said he would make sure to turn it on if he could (he did, at least for departure, and I truly geeked out!) Sure I can listen on various apps (never have), but it’s not the same when you hear your flight given directions to turn sharp right to heading three six zero and climb and maintain one five thousand, and then immediately see and feel the plane bank right and the engines rev up for the climb!  Unfortunately the radio was not on once we crossed the atlantic.
Anyway, the FA came by with a drink ( given my significant buzz I opted for OJ at first). A few minutes later (5 mintues before departure) the lead FA came over to say that our KSML was not on board. She was prepared to order one from the kitchen and hold the plane for a half hour but I knew we had the 10AM tour and we didn’t want to be the ones causing the plane to be delayed. We also had brought left over sous vide ribeye sandwiches from Shabbos so we figured we’d be fine. (Thanks Dan for being adamant to ALWAYS BYOKSML). She offered us $200 UA credit or 10k miles (not sure if it was per person or not), but I figured I’d email united to see if they’d offer more. If not I’ll take the $200.

Given that we had a very busy day planned I ate as soon as we took off and then tried to go to sleep.  For whatever reason, neither me nor my wife were able to get much sleep. I don’t know if it was the noise, or the seats/beds weren’t the most comfortable, or they weren’t that roomy, but we were not impressed much. Obviously it was way better than Y, but still, we were hoping for some siginificant shut eye.

Amazingly (for EWR), the plane pushed back, taxied to runway 22R ( I think), and took off immediately. We ended up landing 35 minutes early as well.  We got our stuff headed off and prepared ourselves for a possible hour plus wait at passport control.

As we were lining up we heard a woman calling all passengers with passports from the US, Canada, Australia, New Zealand, and about 7 or 8 other countries, to go to the left. When we reached the passport area, we were instructed to place the passport face down on a scanner (same one they used for check in and security), then walked through a gate and looked at a camera for a few seconds (no glasses or hat), and then had another gate open to admit us. We stopped at one more customs agent for a quick stamp then were off to get our luggage (belt 11, the very last one of course!).  By the time we made our way there, the luggage was out, so we ended up waiting about 7 minutes for our Uber.

PSA – if you have credit from Visa Local Offers, they do NOT work for transactions billed in Euros.

The uber ride took almost an hour due to traffic however we had plenty of time to check in, have our luggage held (room wasn’t ready), then headed to  the ghetto for some food and coffee and our tour. We weren’t sure how to determine what was kosher but happened to bump into David right outside Pasticceria Boccione so I asked him. He also directed us to where to get some coffee.
We got the ricotta and cherry cake or thingy (sorry no pics) and a powdery puff thing, then went 2 doors down to Bar Toto for some amazing cold coffee (pre mixed somehow) and they added milk. They have sweetened and unsweetened.  The ricotta cake was great, but the other things were so so.

Off to head out to Su Ghetto and Segway tour now. Will try to post more later or at least add some pictures.

Other quick thoughts until more detail:

David Walden’s ghetto tour. Great personality, but he’s a bit too yeshivish in his presentation and definitely comes off somewhat condescending toward the non-jews through history. Will try to expand later on.

On the agenda for tonight: Cooking class at Su Ghetto and then Rex Tours Rome by night segway

« Last Edit: July 31, 2018, 08:24:33 AM by jj1000 »
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Offline dpk4588

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #1 on: July 30, 2018, 09:38:20 AM »
Nice start. I'm planning on going to Rome & Venice in October, so this should help me. Looking forward to the rest.
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Offline ludmila

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #2 on: July 31, 2018, 12:42:24 AM »
Nice , enjoy your trip and happy anniversary.
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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #3 on: July 31, 2018, 06:17:08 AM »
Can't wait for the rest of the trip. Happy anniversary

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #4 on: July 31, 2018, 08:19:55 AM »
Pizza from Alice in the ghetto. The smoked provolone and spinach was out of this world (if you like smoked food)!
The tomato and fresh mozzarella was great but nothing phenomenal
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Offline jj1000

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #5 on: July 31, 2018, 08:25:51 AM »
Great start!

I had to add spacing between paragraphs, advantages of being a mod ;)
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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #6 on: July 31, 2018, 08:30:45 AM »
Su ghetto.
Regular Roman artichoke (boiled then bathed in oil) , Jerusalem artichoke, deep fried twice, and gnocchi with bolognese (chunks of meat instead of ground beef) and gnocchi with lamb. sauce   (we made the gnocchi earlier, ).
 
The artichokes were both amazing. The Jerusalem one was like artichoke chips. You could basically eat the whole thing!

The lamb sauce was better than the bolognese, and later we had fettuccine that we helped make in a sausage and truffle sauce that was amazing (pics on camera so will come later).

.... Just got phone back after forgetting cab! Luck.    Luckily he was just down the block.


Into the Vatican now!

P. S. Thanks JJ for the spacing!
« Last Edit: July 31, 2018, 10:42:40 AM by noturbizniss »
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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #7 on: July 31, 2018, 01:24:37 PM »
So this guy



was hanging around. Apparently it was because someone was going for a drive in his backyard and giving a speech!






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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #8 on: August 03, 2018, 09:39:00 AM »
The tour of the ghetto with David was very informative, however, we did find that his tone and delivery was very derogatory of non Jews. He made some in appropriate jokes (references to lazy Mexicans at one point). The group we were with happened to be very yeshivish, but I met someone who was on another tour with him that was more modox but they said he was the same way. There were about 14 people on the tour.

Fun fact:David is NOT chabad. So why the chabad type beard? Related:why are priests called galach in Yiddish? Becuase monks used to shave their whole head, and later priests shaved their beards. It was therefore considered barbaric to have a beard, and the rabbis in Italy (or at least Rome) shaved their beards in order to avoid abuse. It was not however their preference. When David got married his wife told him she wanted him to have the beard as a way to thumb their noses at the centuries of persecution.

Most of my good  pics are on my camera so I won't have much to upload now.

For dinner that night we went to Su ghetto for a cooking class. It was just my wife and I.
We started off making Jerusalem artichokes (cut off tips at an angle till the center form a point and trim down the middle of the stem, then open it up and press it flat upside down, then deep fry face down  at about 175 for 8 to 10 minutes until golden flipping halfway, remove, add salt and pepper and deep fry at 350 for a couple more minutes.

Next we made gnocchi, which uses mashed potato and just fold in flour over and over until it feels like dough. Then it gets cut and boiled.
After that we made cod. Placed on a bed of thin sliced potatoes, add olive oil then the fish then more oil, then pine nuts, sliced cherry tomatoes, salt, pepper, raisins, parsley, then more thin sliced tomatoes then baked.
Finally, we assisted with pasta. They poured the flour and eggs into the pasta machine and we pulled it off as it oozed out.

Agter the class we took a break then came back for dinner. We ate what we made (as described in post above).

For lung bthay day we had 2 slices from Alice (I think one with ricotta and one plain), they were good but nothing out of this world.

Agter dinner we went on a Rome segway tour with Rex tours. The guide was very ni e and spoke great English. It took some getting used to the segway but it's a quick learning curve.
We hit all the big landmarks, pantheon, Spanish steps, trevi fountain, and some others I don't recall the name.
It was quite scary at times because of all the pedestrians and tiny streets with cars going through them, but overall alot of fun.

Day 2
The next day we got a VERRY late start as it had basically been 48 hours since we had a decent night of sleep.
We had time to walk to Alice again for pizza and got 2 different slices (pictures). The spinach and provolone slice was absolutely incredible. The cheese was smoked and was probably the best slice of pizza I ever had.
The fresh mozzarella and tomatoes was great but just didn't compare to the spinach and smoked provolone.

After lunch we grabbed a can to the Vatican where we had a tour scheduled with the other Rome Jewish company (Jewish Roma I belive). I heard great things about them too so I figured I'd try it. They were also 35 euro cheaper per person than David. The guide was not Micayla.
Unfortunately we were immensely disappointed. The only bit of Jewish information was the guide pointing out the statue of Titus. Otherwise it was a generic tour. If I had to do it again I'd go with David for the Jewish perspective despite his way of talking about non Jews.
Selfie sneak of the sistene chapel ceiling(no pictures officially allowed)
Fun fact number 2: Rome in the summer as hot as !! And the Vatican has no air conditioning either! The temperature was about 97 every single day we were there.

For dinner we went to bghetto milky. We ordered the cheese sampler (pictured, delicious, 13 euro) and mozzarella sticks (balls actually, delicious, 6 euro I think) and then ordered the Ravioloni di Acqua as per Dan (as did the couple next to us, he lurks here, but I don't think he's a member, hi J!,) we ordered something else but it's on my camera so I'll look when I get it.
For desert we got tiramisu and a fig pastry or cake I think. The fig cake was just so so, but the tiramisu was great.

Day 3
We stayed off going to flour for breakfast.
We got machiatto, cappuccino and cold coffee, along with a custard croissant and Danish, some kind of Moroccan cigar with cheese and rice, a fried fish thingy, mushroom slice, and a tiny cream pastry cake.

Everything was delicious, however the fish in the morning was probably a wierd decision. But the fried breading looked so amazing that I had to try it.
In the afternoon we went to the colosseum and used Rock Steves audio tour. While it was informative, I can imagine a tour guide giving way more info.
If we had the time I probably would have booked one of the underground tours which cost only a little more but have a guide (I think) and take you places you can't go otherwise.
For dinner we wanted to go to yotvata as we had heard it was very good from the couple we met the night before, but we had a 750 train to Florence and yotvata opens at 630.

We got a quiet table in the upstairs dining room which was empty and cool (most places have barely passable air conditioning that is horrible for spoiled Americans). Unfortunately one of the th ousands of German youth groups came in and were put in our dining room so it got loud and hot fast.

We ordered fettuccine with 4 cheeses and a truffle sauce which was absolutely amazing and
Tonnarelli with artichockes, sea bass and mullet roe scales. We thought it was a bit heavy on the roe, and didn't compare to the 4 cheese sauce but was still delicious.
After that we went to our hotel where we had checked out and took a cab to termini for our train to Florence.
Speaking of trains, we are pulling into Venice now, so I gotta unload.

Shabbat shalom!
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Offline shmoe joe

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #9 on: August 07, 2018, 12:58:22 AM »
Nice TR. those train pictures reminded me when I rode on them for 6 hours without ac! How come you didn’t visit the dolomites?
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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #10 on: August 07, 2018, 05:33:34 AM »
Nice TR. those train pictures reminded me when I rode on them for 6 hours without ac! How come you didn’t visit the dolomites?
There is no ac on the train???

Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #11 on: August 08, 2018, 04:32:58 PM »
There is no ac on the train???
there is. he must have been unlucky.
its not amazing but its there.
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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #12 on: August 08, 2018, 04:55:18 PM »
Sughetto - fish we made


Fettuccine we "assisted" with.  They added in the lamb


Snuck a bunch of pictures of the sistene chapel....shhhhh!








Some pretty cool perspective woven in the tapestry:
You know who follows you from left to right and the block hes standing on seems to shift as well



From the left

From the right

« Last Edit: August 08, 2018, 07:10:37 PM by noturbizniss »
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Offline noturbizniss

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Re: Noturbizniss's 10th anniversary trip to Italy
« Reply #13 on: August 16, 2018, 02:43:48 PM »
My 7 year old Daughter wanted to know if the stamp on this postcard was a picture of a Leprechaun
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