Author Topic: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil  (Read 20183 times)

Offline Naftali

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #40 on: July 29, 2016, 01:59:41 PM »
People planned trips without posting, let alone reading, DDF for years .

True, but DDF makes everything a whole lot easier  :D. I read through it thoroughly for this trip. 

Offline Naftali

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #41 on: July 29, 2016, 02:03:04 PM »
Day Thirteen – Sunday

Early morning wake up since we had an early flight from AEP airport to Iguazu Falls. Aeroparque Jorge Newbery (AEP) airport is so much more conveniently located than EZE – it is only a 15 minute drive from city center and is mostly for domestic flights. It is actually quite unique as it’s basically an airport the middle of the city. We took a cab to the airport – people suggest only using Radio Taxi in BA but we took all different companies and never had an issue. However, it was always frustrating since the cab drivers did not speak a bit of English and we spoke even less Spanish.  Using an Uber would help alleviate this problem since the driver already knows where exactly you’d like to go but we didn’t use an Uber due to spotty internet access. (Uber is having a hard time in Buenos Aires due to pressure from taxi unions, etc. There are yellow “Fuera Uber” signs on most cabs. And there is also this issue, though I think it only applies to Argentina issued Credit Cards and not U.S. CC: https://cointelegraph.com/news/uber-switches-to-bitcoin-in-argentina-after-govt-blocks-uber-credit-cards).

Although we were able to book LAN tickets from Lima - Cusco, as well as Lima - BsAs using Avios on the British Airways website, for some reason there were no available flights online on the British Airways website from Buenos Aires to Iguazu (IGR) using points so we had to pay for our tickets. In retrospect, I should’ve called American Airlines since they really have amazing deals using points to travel to IGR from AEP, but didn’t realize that American Airlines website doesn’t show LAN flights (=mistakes of an inexperienced traveler). We took a LAN flight from AEP to IGR and it was about $200 a ticket each one way. Pretty crazy that of eight flights this was the one we spent the most on. At least since it was a domestic flight our baby was totally free. (It was winter break vacation week for Buenos Aires’ schools so perhaps that’s why prices were so high. For other dates the prices were more like $150 each.)
Note about flying to Iguazu Falls: The falls are on the border of Argentina and Brazil, and there are two cities on each side of the border divided by the Iguazu River. Both Puerto Iguazu (on the Argentinean side) and Foz do Iguacu (on the Brazilian side) have airports, so there are domestic flights within Argentina to the falls into IGR and domestic flights within Brazil into IGU. In fact, I met a guy in the airport in IGR who told me he was simply traveling from BsAs to Rio without any intent of visiting the falls and it was cheaper for him to fly into IGR, take a cab to IGU, and then fly to GIG than to fly direct from EZE to GIG.

We had a guide pick us up at the airport at IGR after an uneventful flight. We drove straight to the Sheraton Iguazú Resort & Spa where we were staying for the night. I used 6k Starwoods + $110 (+ resort fees). Although I had booked a “jungle view,” they gave me an upgrade to a “falls view” room since I’m a Starwoods member. The hotel is supposedly a five star hotel but I’m not sure by what standard; it seems like a regular hotel to me – small rooms, regular amenities, aging pool area, etc. (free breakfast though which is good for some fruit & coffee). The view from our room balcony (and even better from the bar & lobby area) of the falls was awesome so the view plus the ease of going to the trails straight from the hotel probably make this hotel a worthy selection anyway.

The hotel is located within the Iguazu National Park – it costs 330 pesos to enter the park, (I had run out of Pesos and the park only accepts cash payment in pesos; I found a taxi driver waiting around outside the park to exchange money with me. He gave me an awful exchange rate, though I didn’t have much of a choice – the ATM machine was broken).

Leaving from the Sheraton, we went to tour the falls. Going on a boat was not an option since we had a baby with us so we were only able to do the walking parts. There are three primary trails of the falls on the Argentina side. The two closer trails to the Sheraton are the lower falls & and upper falls trails. The lower falls gives you great panoramic views of the entirety of the falls at certain points and also brings you to the foot of several of the falls which can make you a bit wet (everyone was walking around with rain jackets; we didn’t have one and didn’t really need on the Argentina side). The upper falls trail is along parts of the perimeter above the falls – it is quite the experience to be walking right above the falls on catwalks, looking down and seeing the immense force of water rushing beneath you. The third trail- going to “Devil’s Throat” (the largest of all the falls) only begins after either a train ride or a 20 minute walk along the train tracks to the beginning of the catwalk trail. The queue for the train was more than an hour and a half wait and the walk along the tracks was closed due to mud so we saved this third Argentina side trail for the next day when we could go early morning with less crowds.


















Views from Upper Falls Trail











Views from Lower Falls Trail


The Argentina side of the falls I felt provides a much more intimate experience with falls. The trails/catwalks above the flowing river and right up to the edge of the falls (both above and below) really give you a sense and appreciation for the awesomeness of the falls. The Brazilian side (which we did the next day) has much better photo opportunities and has far better views. Both amazing - both worthwhile. I think one day at each side at the falls is enough. Actually, I don’t even think the Brazilian side needs a full day – unless I missed something….


There are Coatis (large rodent type creature) running around everywhere – after we took the first photo they just became annoying. Every time they hear you opening a bag of food they run right up to you. Additionally, there are monkeys. On our balcony there was a sign which said we should keep balcony door locked because monkeys get to the balconies and try to enter guest rooms. We thought this was an exaggeration until I woke up Monday morning to find a monkey peering into our room from the balcony.



Darn Coatis










View from our room  8)


To be continued…. 


Offline Denverite

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #42 on: July 29, 2016, 03:44:53 PM »
Wow, wow, wow!  My kids would love all this, include the annoying Coatis!

Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #43 on: July 29, 2016, 04:03:05 PM »
Wow, wow, wow!  My kids would love all this, include the annoying Coatis!
The coatis are not just annoying, the scratch. They have signs posted about how badly they can scratch you, usually drawing lots of blood and going pretty deep. They're not cute of crudely (though apparently not all coatis are like this, just the ones at the falls who are used to humans).

Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #44 on: July 29, 2016, 04:12:26 PM »
Great segment! When we were in BsAs Uber hadn't yet arrived. You're right, the taxi drivers don't speak a word of English, but they were quite friendly, talkative and cooperative (like not driving you around in circles) when spoken to in fluent Spanish.

Offline Joe4007

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #45 on: July 31, 2016, 03:54:11 AM »
Let me join the crowd and thank you for an amazing TR!

You didn't miss much in Colonia. Tigre is the better choice IMO. There are islands where you can get off the boat and stroll around or grill, etc.

Regarding Uber. The Taxi companies are fighting them tooth and nail, but Uber is much cheaper (50%) and I was charged to my US CC in USD (basically Uber did the conversion instead of the CC issuer). You need to be careful though, as taxi drivers are out for blood. I actually missed my flight to Rio the other week when a taxi driver learned that we had called an Uber and he refused to leave the area.

Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #46 on: July 31, 2016, 10:00:48 AM »
Like he blocked you in?

Offline mgarfin

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #47 on: July 31, 2016, 10:30:21 AM »
My experience with uber in RIO was bad. A 8 minute wait had the car at the same spot 15 min later. I think the unpredictable traffic in RIO makes the product week.

Offline Joe4007

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #48 on: July 31, 2016, 10:58:20 AM »
Like he blocked you in?
Not exactly, but he made it clear that he was really pissed that we ordered an Uber and I wasn't going to leave the house into an empty street at 6AM with him ready for a fight. It's not like we were NY where I just call the cops and they come

We ended up calling a different taxi company and he actually followed us and told our taxi driver that we had ordered an Uber...
My experience with uber in RIO was bad. A 8 minute wait had the car at the same spot 15 min later. I think the unpredictable traffic in RIO makes the product week.
Dirt cheap though. Paid $17 for a 2 hour trip!

Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #49 on: July 31, 2016, 11:46:07 AM »
Not exactly, but he made it clear that he was really pissed that we ordered an Uber and I wasn't going to leave the house into an empty street at 6AM with him ready for a fight. It's not like we were NY where I just call the cops and they come

We ended up calling a different taxi company and he actually followed us and told our taxi driver that we had ordered an Uber... Dirt cheap though. Paid $17 for a 2 hour trip!
I'm still unclear how the taxi knew you ordered an Uber?

Offline Joe4007

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #50 on: July 31, 2016, 11:54:52 AM »
I'm still unclear how the taxi knew you ordered an Uber?
Uber was not showing any available cars at that hour. Ordered a taxi and soon after there was an Uber available. Called to cancel the taxi and they said no problem. A couple of minutes later someone knocks on the door and a family member - who's obviously unfamiliar with how Uber works - answers the door: Uber?! 

Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #51 on: July 31, 2016, 11:56:09 AM »
Uber was not showing any available cars at that hour. Ordered a taxi and soon after there was an Uber available. Called to cancel the taxi and they said no problem. A couple of minutes later someone knocks on the door and a family member - who's obviously unfamiliar with how Uber works - answers the door: Uber?! 
Oh.

Offline ponash123

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #52 on: August 01, 2016, 11:38:47 PM »
Wow. Just. Wow.
Thank you for posting this. When planning my Peru trip (which, sadly didn't pan out  :( ) I had a hard time finding a good trip report here. So thanks for taking the time - it's amazing!!

Offline mgoldhammer18

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #53 on: August 02, 2016, 01:58:22 PM »
Do you have any pictures of your home away room in Buenos Aires?

Offline Naftali

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #54 on: August 02, 2016, 02:11:39 PM »
Do you have any pictures of your home away room in Buenos Aires?

This is where we stayed: https://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p75510vb

OK stay. Neighbors were a bit noisy/strange. Worth the money though (only $70 a night). And there was a washing machine in the kitchen which we desperately needed.

Good location for proximity to Chabad of Recoleta (three blocks away) & within 15 min. walk of Once. Shabbos was challenging due to the apt. being on the eight floor and needing a key to go both in & out of the building (... there is no eruv in BsAs) - ended up staying in the apt. the whole Shabbos. 

[I'm sure the next renter will find it strange to find a band-aid on the light switch in the refrigerator.]


Offline mgoldhammer18

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #55 on: August 02, 2016, 02:17:36 PM »
This is where we stayed: https://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/p75510vb

OK stay. Neighbors were a bit noisy/strange. Worth the money though (only $70 a night). And there was a washing machine in the kitchen which we desperately needed.

Good location for proximity to Chabad of Recoleta (three blocks away) & within 15 min. walk of Once. Shabbos was challenging due to the apt. being on the eight floor and needing a key to go both in & out of the building (... there is no eruv in BsAs) - ended up staying in the apt. the whole Shabbos. 

[I'm sure the next renter will find it strange to find a band-aid on the light switch in the refrigerator.]

Seems nice.

Offline Naftali

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #56 on: August 02, 2016, 04:54:43 PM »
Day 15 – Monday

   The one thing I didn’t adequately pack for this trip was winter clothing. Though I knew that it was winter in the southern Hemisphere, I didn’t anticipate it being mid 50s degrees f. at Iguazu Falls.

We started off the day returning to the Cataratas station, a midpoint station near the Sheraton where the train continues from the entrance of the park to the Devil’s Throat hike. The queue, like the day before, was very long (and the train only departs every 15 minutes) so we walked along the train tracks until arriving at the beginning of the trail to the Devil’s Throat. The entire trail to Devil’s Throat (about 15 min. walk) consists of catwalks above the calm waters of the Iguazu River. Along the trail, one can see plenty of remnants of the catwalks that were destroyed and washed away during the vast flooding in June, 2014.

The trail ends with a viewing deck right above the falls. The views from the deck include the panorama of the falls as well as the sheer awesomeness of Devil’s Throat roaring down 270 ft. The sight is spectacular. Devil’s Throat is the tallest and most powerful of all the falls. Though it is questionable whether one actually recites the bracha of עושה מעשה בראשית upon seeing a waterfall, the wonders and unique beauty of creation are awe-inspiring and uplifting (sorry if I’m getting a bit carried away).

After spending some thirty minutes admiring the site, we walked back, caught the train back to Cataratas Station, and checked out of the Sheraton. Our guide then drove us through Puerto Iguazú to the “Three Border Landmark” (triple frontier area) where one can see the confluence of the Iguazu River & Parana River which demarcates the border the three countries: Brazil, Argentina, and Paraguay. From here you can see all three countries (not much else going on here, but cool anyway – you can see a large Paraguayan city in the distance).   Our guide told us that they starting charging to visit the Brazilian side so going to the Argentina side was a no brainer.

On to Brazil. The Tancredo Neves Bridge over the Iguazu River connects Argentina and Brazil and we had little trouble getting through the border (there is a “fast lane” for taxis and tour guides). There are booths on the Argentinian side to “check out” of Argentina and right after the bridge on the Brazil side there is a center where one gets out of the car to get their passports stamped. Our guide went into the building to take care of the Brazil side for us and we were just fine staying in the car. Strange that Brazil is fine stamping customs without us even being present. Fine with me though.

We went directly to the Iguaçu National Park (Iguacu with a “c” in Brazil). The cost to enter the park is about 50 Real (1 Real = about $0.3 USD) and they took CC. After entering, there is a bus that travels along a road several miles long with a bunch of stops along the way for assorted hikes around the falls. Our guide was permitted to drive us through (I don’t think taxis can enter the park) and took us straight to the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas were we began the trail.

As I mentioned, the views from the Brazilian side are far more panoramic but further away from the falls. The trail was mostly winding down the mountain side to reach the river level below the falls. From there, there is a catwalk to basically the middle of the river which has outstanding views of Devil’s Throat from below (perfectly complementing the views we saw earlier in the day of Devil’s Throat from above).  This was the only point where we could’ve used raincoats; the wind really blew the water and got us soaked. There is a visitor center immediately after this catwalk which has a glass elevator that takes you back up to the top of the mountain. Should I mention there are good views of the side of the falls from here too :)?

There was a bus ride from the end of the trail back to the Belmond Hotel das Cataratas where we relaxed a bit and then made our way to Foz do Iguaçu International Airport (IGU) to Rio. If we had more time and weren’t as tired, we would’ve visiting the Parque das Aves/Bird Park which is right outside the park and has good reviews. 

Interestingly, at the IGU airport they screen all baggage even before we got to check – in, a drug trade deterrence thing. We took an evening flight on GOL to Rio/GIG (ticket = $108 each- baby free); we had a pretty lousy flight on this low cost carrier but all's well that ends well.

We arrived at GIG about 10pm (unfortunately, all two kosher restaurants in Rio were closed by then; we're not in BsAs anymore). After waiting quite a while for our luggage, we took a regular cab to Copacabana for $30 total (the cab took Visa). I chose to stay in the Americas Copacabana Hotel (for $95 a night) for several reasons: 1) within walking distance to the two kosher restaurants in Rio.  2) Cheap – Due to Zika (and the cold weather), we didn’t plan on spending much time pool or beach side so proximity to beach or beautiful pool wasn’t a high priority 3) Couldn’t find any competitive/worthwhile award hotels in the Copacabana area. – The hotel was nice enough, very small room though.

To be continued….











Devil’s Throat Trail











Devil’s Throat






(Far right- Brazil, Left – Paraguay, Photo taken from Argentina)

Three Border Landmark














View from the Brazilian Side – Trail





View from the Brazilian Side - Catwalk




Consider yourself warned – Do Not Overtake!!!








Americas Copacabana Hotel Rooftop pool & view

Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #57 on: August 02, 2016, 05:06:10 PM »
Wow, really nice pics of the falls, especially the 9th one from the top/6th from the bottom!

Offline Naftali

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #58 on: August 08, 2016, 12:02:48 PM »
Day 16 Tuesday –


   With no tour guide taking us around for the day (I figured we’d be able to get around ourselves; plans for the day were pretty basic), we decided to walk along the beautiful beaches of Rio. Rio, along with Cape Town, is one of the prettiest cities in the world with a series of forest-mountains towering above the city. Dampening the beauty of the city are favelas, Brazilian slums, which are scattered about throughout the city (surprisingly, one is right near Copacabana Beach). Google just put out this: https://beyondthemap.withgoogle.com/en-us/ because “a big part of having an identity is having an address.”


   The main tourist area consists of the Copacabana beach area (touristy, retail along the main beachfront avenue, buildings a bit old, actual beach quite long and impressive, a lot “happening”) and the Ipanema/Leblon beach area (much quieter, calmer, higher end, etc.) Although it wasn’t raining (#feelbadforYehoshua), the weather was overcast and chilly (….more tznius I guess) so the beaches were mostly quiet. We walked along the Copacabana beach watching construction workers assemble various structures for the Olympics. All along the Copacabana beach there are amazing sand castles and small beer/bbq joints. At the end of the Copacabana beach was a fort (Forte de Copacabana) – there was a small entrance fee which I didn’t see a purpose of paying to enter because there are great views everywhere. We then continued walking to the Ipanema beach which was very calm and enjoyable; relaxing on the Pedra do Arpoador (far north of the beach), amazing. We looped back to Copacabana, strolling through the Praça General Osorio fruits and vegetables market (only on Tuesdays) which was fun.


   The only kosher place open for lunch (that I know of) is Shelanu kosher, which is located on the second floor of a Jewish/Israel Center. The building has this big blue barrier gate in front and doesn’t seem like you’re heading into a food establishment. Lunch is mostly buffet (chicken, pepper steak, veggies, fries, potatos, etc. – it varies day to day), though we ordered the fish special since we didn’t want to become meat. It’s the only place in town for lunch, so it was what it was. For dinner they have a regular menu and waiter service but we were only in Rio one night for dinner and went to Deleite.


   We then took a cab to the Sugerloaf Mountain Cable Car. I couldn’t find an address, so I told the cab to take us to Praia Vermelha, the beach where the cable car station is located (it happens to be a beautiful quiet beach). Each ticket is about $23 each for the ride roundtrip; the first station is Morro da Urca. The second station goes up even further to Sugerloaf Mountain. The vistas from the cable car and the mountaintops are amazing. You can see the length of Copacana Beach and beyond, the bay and continuous mountain range extending far into the distance, and the domestic airport (Santos Dumont Airport) is nearby (cool to watch the planes landing and taking off). There is a café (and some nice hikes) on each of the mountains (it is tropical forest area) and tiny monkeys called Marmosets scurrying about. There is also an exhibit detailing the history of the cable car (first built in 1912, though the actual cars have been replaced several times). Pretty impressive engineering. (The cable car has been featured in high profile films: James Bond
& I just saw in trailer it will be in the upcoming film Mechanic: Resurrection).


   After spending sometime relaxing at Praia Vermelha, we headed back to Copacabana to enjoy dinner at Deleite Pizza & Pasta. They weren’t ready for customers at 6pm yet, so we walked around and came back at about 7. We were the only customers and the manager/owner was really friendly and shmoozy. The pizza (very very thin crust) and lasagna weren’t great, but the pastas and beer were amazing. They had an English menu which was very helpful.  As far as I know, these are the only two kosher establishment in Rio. Does anyone know of any others?

As an aside, there is a trail ride up to Corcovado Mountain which is the highest point in Rio and provides great views of the city. However, I did not feel comfortable going since I thought it would be a violation - at least in spirit - of the Mishna in Avodah Zara 1:4, I wonder how others feel.
"עיר שיש בה עבודה זרה, חוצה לה מתר היה חוצה לה עבודה זרה, תוכה מתר. מהו לילך לשם בזמן שהדרך מיחדת לאותו מקום, אסור  ואם היה יכול להלך בה למקום אחר, מתר," ופירוש הרע"ב שם " אסור לילך שם, מפני שנראה כמהלך שם לעבוד ע"ז.”







Copacabana Beach






Ipanema Beach







Shelanu Kosher (Lunch)













Cable Car / Sugerloaf Mountain




Praia Vermelha







Deleite Pizza & Pasta




Offline Yehoshua

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Re: Trip Report of Panama, Peru, Argentina, & Brazil
« Reply #59 on: August 08, 2016, 12:35:16 PM »
Thanks for the shout out. Pics look good, and it sounds like you had a great time!