We flew EWR to MEX via United, booked using 42.3k United miles + $44.92 per person. While the price for this ticket in miles was more than I would have liked, as it is sometimes available as Saver Award for just 17.5k miles via United or 10k miles via Turkish (!), since the trip was so last-minute no Saver Award space was available.
I pre-purchased parking at EWR via SpotHero at the Parking Point for $35, quite cheap for a week, but upon arrival we were charged an additional $40 for having an “oversized” vehicle (mid-size SUV). It was especially upsetting as the nearby ARB Parking was only a few dollars more on SpotHero, and they do not charge oversize fees.
The lines at TSA in Terminal C weren’t too long, and Clear in conjunction with TSA Precheck took 7 minutes from start to finish, including two extra minutes for Clear as the agent had me do NextGen verification (it appears that Clear is updating their system, and I had to reinput some of my information and biometrics). We then headed to the United Club (C123), which was quiet and empty- they had kosher snacks available upon request such as nuts and cookies (pareve). Our flight took off from EWR on schedule at 6:40AM and landed in Mexico City International Airport 30 minutes ahead of schedule. Similar to the US, Mexico requires all passengers to clear immigration and collect baggage prior to proceeding to any onward flights. While most US passengers can exit immigration electronically by scanning their passports, my passport was not cooperating and kept returning an error, so I had to head over to an agent, which lucky for me meant that I got a Mexican stamp in my passport😊.
At the start of our trip the exchange rate was MX$17.19/$1, and we exchanged some cash at the airport for MX$16.90/$1, although once we made it into the city proper, we saw some cash exchanges offering rates of MX$17 to MX$17.10, which we later utilized. I had read online that Uber is dirt cheap in Mexico City, so without looking into the local competitors, I ordered one at the airport to get us to our hotel. While the fare was not expensive by NY standards at MX$219 ($12.74) for 35 minutes, I later learned that the local ride-hailing apps are cheaper and have more cars available. I found it interesting that taxis weren’t more expensive, as gas was around $5/gallon.
On the way to our hotel, we bumped into this fellow, just chilling on his garbage truck.
We had booked the Hotel NH Collection Mexico City Reforma for two nights, and while we would have rather chosen a hotel in Polanco, which is the Jewish neighborhood where most of the kosher food in Mexico City is located, we booked this hotel using the $200 Amex Platinum Hotel Collection credit, which made the Ubering back and forth worth it. While our room was not ready when we arrived at the hotel at 12:15PM (official checkin is at 3PM), they had it ready for us 30 minutes later, and we were upgraded to a Junior Suite along with a $100 hotel credit, which we didn’t have an opportunity to utilize, as the spa was not covered by the credit. The room was spacious but simple, with a good shower, and the staff provided us with unlimited bottled water during our stay.
Thankfully the weather was beautiful during our stay, even with a constant pollution haze, with temps in the low 70s during the day. While it did get colder at night, a sweater was enough to keep us warm. The only bothersome part was the dry air, which caused our lips to swell up and peel, although ChapSticks took care of the worst of it.
The streets of Mexico City are hazy, smelly, and noisy, and the traffic between 11AM and 11PM is crazy. There is a strong police presence in all touristy areas, and we never once felt unsafe on this trip. After a short nap, we headed out for a walking tour of Mexico City, which I had booked via GuruWalk (
https://www.guruwalk.com/walks/14861-the-original-free-walking-tour-historic-downtown).
Our tour started at the Plaza de la Constitución, which is a large square with lots going on such as street vendors and entertainers.
We then headed behind the square to the Templo Mayor de México-Tenochtitlan, which is an ancient temple built by the Aztecs and destroyed by the Spanish conquistadors.
Our guide also stopped by the building which housed Mexico City’s Spanish Inquisition staff. Although the inquisition was not very active in Mexico and was mainly used by local monks to get rid of their competition, 29 individuals were executed as Judaizers.
We made several stops to notable buildings such as the Museo Nacional de Arte and the Palacio de Mineria.
The Casa de los Azulejos/House of Tiles.
Our last stop on the walking tour was at the magnificent Palacio de Bellas Artes.
GuruWalk tours are free, with an optional tip based on performance. We enjoyed our walking tour and tipped our guide $20 for the 2.5 tour (most tours list the average tip, so that travelers know what is expected). After saying goodbye to our guide, we tried getting an Uber to take us to Plaza Garibaldi, but there were no cars available. After a few minutes we realized that Plaza Garibaldi is just a 10-minute walk from the Palacio de Bellas Artes, so we decided to walk. Note that if you google this most travel blogs will not recommend walking, as the neighborhood is not considered the safest, but we did not feel unsafe at any point.
Plaza Garibaldi is the place to go if you’re looking for a Mariachi, a band of musicians playing Mexican music. The plaza was quieter than I thought it would be, but the Mariachis were still fun. We purchased one song for MX$200 ($11.60) that was played by a band of 6, and then we hung around for another 30 minutes listening to Mariachis purchased by others (this is standard practice in the square).
At this point, we were more than ready for dinner, and I started searching for an Uber again, but the prices seemed way too high for our trip distance. After a quick google search on local ride-hailing cabs, I realized that we had been overpaying by using Uber and downloaded Cabify and Didi. While Cabify has a very small presence in Mexico City, Didi has a large footprint and is much cheaper than Uber. Our Cabify from Plaza Garibaldi to Gaucho Grill cost us MX$276 ($16), while Uber wanted MX$399 for the same trip. This is the only time we used Cabify on this trip, as Didi ended up being cheaper and more easily available every other time.
Prior to our trip we had done some research on hechsheirim in Mexico City, and we felt that KMD was up to our standards. We used
https://kosher.com.mx/establecimientos to find restaurants that are under their hashgacha.
The food at Gaucho Grill was ok, not very good but not bad, although the service here was incredible. This was our first food stop in Mexico, and we learnt here that Mexicans eat soft-shelled tacos, which was not to our liking. They’re served in a cloth bag to keep them warm, and the smell is less than pleasant…
Onion soupEmpanadaTacos 1Tacos 2Chocolate SouffleThe next morning, we started with breakfast at Sinai Deli & Bakery in Polanco. The décor here is severely lacking and the service less than efficient, but the food was ok, and the pastries delicious. From here we headed to Teotihuacán, an archaeological complex with large “pyramids” which is fascinating for any history geek.
Teotihuacán is located an hour from Mexico City, but instead of taking an organized tour, which makes a full day trip out of it by stopping at some other attractions which were of no interest to us, we decided to make our own way. We ordered a Didi, which was MX$411 ($23.90) for the one-hour drive, and we had to pay tolls directly which was another MX$102 ($5.90). The way from Mexico City to Teotihuacán was mostly through what seemed to be slums that looked similar to Rio de Janeiro’s favelas. Interestingly, each mountain community is accessible to the nearby mountain community by chairlift.
The entry fee to Teotihuacán is MX$90/pp, and as soon as we entered, we were accosted by tour guides offering their services. Most of them wanted MX$2,500 for the two of us for a 3-hour guided tour, which we felt was overpriced based on our online research. Unfortunately, we were unable to find any cheaper guides, and while we kept our eyes open for a group forming which would have brought down the price, we did not find another English-speaking group, and ended up buying a guidebook for MX$50 which we read on our own pace. This is perhaps the one upside of taking a pre-arranged tour straight from Mexico City, as it would have included a guide as well.
In the parking lot we came across a group of entertainers performing Mariachi while hanging upside-down from a pole.
We strolled along the Avenue of the Dead, which runs through Teotihuacán, and is lined with vendors selling all sorts of souvenirs. They make an annoying ruckus by all trumpeting the same intensely irritating whistle (sounds like a dying animal vocalizing).
Our first stop was at The Citadel/ Temple of the Feathered Serpent.
While a bit of a walk and away from the general bustle of the Avenue of the Dead, we found the Museo de la Cultura Teotihuacana interesting. It explains the history and layout of the site and has some interesting artifacts from local archeological digs.
די רבי מיטן שטריימלNear the museum there’s the Teotihuacán Gardens,
and right behind it is the magnificent Pyramid of the Sun.
From there it’s just a short walk back to the Avenue of the Dead, and to the final pyramid on the road, the Pyramid of the Moon.
We had a phenomenal time exploring the complex, and while the guidebook was probably less informative than a guide would have been, we still had a great time. The temps were in the high 60s and low 70s, so we weren’t too bothered by the sun, but we both ended up red-faced with sunburn- I highly recommend wearing sunblock at Teotihuacán, as the sun is very strong here in the desert. Teotihuacán was definitely one of the highlights of our trip, and we ended up spending over 3.5 hours here.
We had no difficulties finding a Didi, which cost us MX$383 ($22.20) for the 1:15 drive back- there were tolls of MX$102 ($5.90) heading back to the city as well.
After a quick stop at our hotel to get some more cash, we headed to the Museo Nacional de Antropología which is considered on of the best museums in Mexico City (according to some online sources, Mexico City has more museums than any other city in the world), so we had pretty high expectations. For some reason entry was free that day, but we ended up only spending 45 minutes here, as the place mostly consists of archaeological artifacts, which my husband quickly bored of.
After being on our feet all day, we were more than ready to head to dinner. We got a Didi to take us to Polanco- that’s when I noticed that Didi was changing the price from the quoted fare after each ride. It turns out that Didi’s prices aren’t locked in, but they do have an option of requesting a refund if the pricing changes, so we ended up doing that for all our trips. They refunded the difference on the spot, and even though it was a pain to remember each time to request it, it was still worth it because they were so much cheaper than Uber. Dinner that night was at the incredible Auguri Kosher Trattoria- this is the
#1 restaurant I have ever eaten at. Auguri has an interesting menu, with the main fare being Italian, and two sub-menus, one branded Kosher Bamboo for Asian cuisine, and one branded Burger House for sandwiches. All food is out of the same kitchen, and you can order from all menus. Every item we ordered was a solid 5/5. While the food is not cheap, it’s by no means as expensive as its equivalent in NYC would be (we paid $165 for the items pictured below, including tax and tip). Auguri has the best kosher food in Mexico City by far.
Minestrone SoupMatzah Ball SoupSalmon CarpaccioHoney Crispy ChickenPasta ArrabbiataPulled Brisket SandwichChocolate VolcanoThe next morning, after checking out and storing our bags at the hotel’s front desk, we headed to Ajla Gourmet Polanco for breakfast. The food was great, and we got some pastries to go which were delicious as well.
Pita with Olives and CheeseThree Cheese PaniniWe then headed to Chapultepec Castle, which is one of only two “real” Castles in North America, as it was inhabited by a monarch (the other “real” castle is located in Mexico City as well). We greatly enjoyed our time here, as the Castle houses a military museum,
the alcazar palace,
and great views of the park and city,
so it really has something for everyone. We ended up spending two hours here.
Weirdly enough the public restrooms in Chapultepec Park were not free- there was a MX$5 charge to enter the bathroom, and no, it was not maintained any better than the free bathrooms in the US (if anything it was worse).
Next, we headed to Xochimilco, which is a borough located about an hour from Mexico City, comprised mostly of canals.
We paid MX$308 ($17.90) for the 1-hour ride to the embarcadero nativitas docks. There are several places to board gondolas, but based on our research this is the largest one, and the one where you’re the least likely to get ripped off (yeah, right). There is a large board at the docks listing the price per gondola as MX$600 per hour (you can fit 20-30 people onto one gondola, so the larger the group, the cheaper per person), so it doesn’t really matter which gondola you go with. We were immediately met by a “gondola agent” who offered us a 2-hour ride for MX$1,000. We felt that 2 hours was too long and decided to go for a 1.5-hour ride. The agent quoted us a price of MX$900, which we agreed to. We boarded the boat he assigned to us and had an enjoyable ride along the canals.
There are hundreds of other boats on the water, and many vendor boats as well selling souvenirs, beer, food, and of course Mariachis. At one point we hired a Mariachi to come aboard our boat and serenade us😊
Our troubles started when our gondola operator pulled back into the docks after just one hour on the canals. He didn’t speak much English, so we tried explaining to him via Google translate that we had paid for 1.5 hours, and so still had another 30 minutes left on our ride. He insisted that 1.5 hours had passed, and when I showed him that it wasn’t possible by pulling up our Didi trip which showed that we had only arrived 1.5-hours prior, and that we took our time strolling along the dock prior to hiring a boat, he insisted that the Didi confirmation was proof of his claim, rather than the other way around. He was starting to get a bit aggressive in his hand motions, so we decided to disembark and try to find the agent that had taken our cash and assigned us to a boat. After walking around for over 30 minutes in an effort to find him, and asking several other agents if they knew him and where we might locate him, we eventually gave up and got a Didi to take us back to the city. I’m not sure if this is an organized scam these agents and drivers run, or if the driver just decided that it was a good day to rip us off, but it definitely left a sour taste in my mouth.
We headed to the Mercado de Artesanías La Ciudadela- there are several popular markets in Mexico City, but we chose this one a) because they close later than most, and b) because we thought it would be cool to observe some of the local handcrafted goods. No vendor sells the exact same thing as his neighbor, as the items are handmade and therefore original.
From the market we took a Didi to the hotel to pick up our bags, as we were sleeping in a different hotel for our final night in the city. Once we had our bags, we made our way to Polanco to Pecorino Kosher for dinner. The food here was good and the service was great, but unlike every other restaurant we had eaten in so far in Mexico City, the place was at full capacity.
Mushroom SoupFettuccini AlfredoPizzaTiramisuAfter a filling meal we headed towards the airport, to the Holiday Inn Express Mexico Basilica. Prior to our trip we hadn’t been aware that there is almost no morning traffic in Mexico City and being worried about having to sit in traffic for an hour with a plane to catch, we decided to sleep close to the airport on our last night. We didn’t find anything to suit our requirements very close to the airport, but this was reasonably close and met our needs. Even though I’m a Platinum IHG member they did not provide an upgrade, and the room was sparsely decorated- almost dorm like. Additionally, the shower was more of a trickle than a stream, but we made do for one night.
While we awoke on time Thursday morning, everything ended up taking longer than expected, and our Uber only arrived at 9AM. I was antsy, as our flight was scheduled to depart at 9:55AM, and I did not have high hopes for us making it. Thankfully there was no traffic, so we made it to Terminal 2 at MEX airport by 9:18AM. I nearly had a conniption when I spotted the security lines- the place was a total balagan, with more of a crowd waiting to pass security than orderly lines. Even with the huge crowd security did not end up taking as long as expected, and we were through by 9:35. After spending a few precious minutes waiting for the departure board to cycle to our flight, since we had not been assigned a gate on our boarding pass or online, we rushed to Hall B. The agent was kind enough to calm us down and assure us that the plane would wait for us, and then led us to Gate 10, which was located below Hall B, and accessible via a security gate in Hall B. Once we made it to the gate we really calmed down, as there was still a crowd of passengers at the gate waiting for a bus for transport to the plane. While the departure was delayed by about 25 minutes, the flight was uneventful, and we landed 1:45 minutes later in Cozumel International Airport.